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How do you like your lowered vette

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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:36 PM
  #21  
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Lowered with the adjustable coilover settings. Actually scrapes less due to better efficiency (less bouncy.)




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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:50 PM
  #22  
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anybody know how the whole lowering thing works..and how to do it? I don't understand the lowering bolt's and what they do.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:53 PM
  #23  
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Lower it! These cars are wat to high from the factory. It completely changes the look and if you do not cut the bushings you will not notice any difference in the ride, but you might scrape the bottom air dam in places where it did not scrape before. But this is ok and it is a cheap plastic peace which you can afford to replace once a year IF you need to. I lowered mine on stock bolts. Then I decicded to cut the bushings(not a good idea), it got noisy and rough, soonafter I bought lowering bolts (bushings break after a while). Finaly I went the coilover route and my car is slammed.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #24  
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I just did mine and LOVE the look. Need to take some new pictures, The scraping is a pain, but just learn to go slow and angle.
My front is as low as it can go on WCC bolts


Originally Posted by AlexVette505
anybody know how the whole lowering thing works..and how to do it? I don't understand the lowering bolt's and what they do.
What kind of help do you need? Shoot me a PM
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Old May 6, 2009 | 10:35 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by AlexVette505
anybody know how the whole lowering thing works..and how to do it? I don't understand the lowering bolt's and what they do.
First you need her on a lift or blocks, even
You have to remove the lower ball jt bolt and the sway bar as well. Taking off the tire is easier. This will give you access to the control arm, which should, and I emphasize should give you the capability to lower the control arm, then access the spring bolt and exchange
The control bar can be a bitch, may have to hit it or pry it down
It was more cumbersome by far vs putting a intake and exhaust on
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Old May 7, 2009 | 08:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jupiter38
First you need her on a lift or blocks, even
You have to remove the lower ball jt bolt and the sway bar as well. Taking off the tire is easier. This will give you access to the control arm, which should, and I emphasize should give you the capability to lower the control arm, then access the spring bolt and exchange
The control bar can be a bitch, may have to hit it or pry it down
It was more cumbersome by far vs putting a intake and exhaust on
WTF are you talking about?

Everything you said is not what you need to do.

Jack the car up one side at a time and take the weight off of the spring by using a jackstand and then just use a wrench to turn the bolt.

It shouldnt take you more than 2 minutes per side after getting it jacked up and the weight off the spring.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 10:22 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
WTF are you talking about?

Everything you said is not what you need to do.

Jack the car up one side at a time and take the weight off of the spring by using a jackstand and then just use a wrench to turn the bolt.

It shouldnt take you more than 2 minutes per side after getting it jacked up and the weight off the spring.
I think Jupiter38 was talking about complete removal of the stock bolt and replacing with an aftermarket bolt. In the case of mere adjustment you, of course, are 100% correct. Removal takes a bit more because you need a lot of clearance between the spring end and the A-Arm. I've done it without all the extra work Jupiter38 describes but it is a real PIA. I'm thinking seriously about going all the way to coilovers.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 10:27 AM
  #28  
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OP stated stock bolts no cutting.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 01:33 PM
  #29  
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My car is lowered on stock bolts, cut bushings in the rear. I would not suggest cutting the bushings, they will squeak and bang after the remaining rubber mushrooms out. I just ordered lowering bolts from Hardbar, hopefully they will be in this weekend. The hardest part for me was putting the car on the lift 20 times, making subtle adjustments each time trying to get the stance and level perfect.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #30  
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how far can you go lowering with "stock Bolts" I would like to do 1/2" to maybe 3/4", Is this within reason?
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Old May 7, 2009 | 06:05 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by dads toy
how far can you go lowering with "stock Bolts" I would like to do 1/2" to maybe 3/4", Is this within reason?
Yes
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Old May 7, 2009 | 08:48 PM
  #32  
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This is with WCC Bolt all the way down


This is with about 3/8 " left on WCC Bolt




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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:26 PM
  #33  
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Can someone point us in the direction of a DIY link here on the forum? Looks like something I want to do this weekend! Thanks!
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by POPY'S VT
I think Jupiter38 was talking about complete removal of the stock bolt and replacing with an aftermarket bolt. In the case of mere adjustment you, of course, are 100% correct. Removal takes a bit more because you need a lot of clearance between the spring end and the A-Arm. I've done it without all the extra work Jupiter38 describes but it is a real PIA. I'm thinking seriously about going all the way to coilovers.
Thank you, yes aftermarket

I was on the phone with LG the whole time, just following directions

You did it without the tire off ??

My control arm was a bitch,

Settle down Floyd !!
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:39 PM
  #35  
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Click on each picture and it will tell you directions

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07.../photo_07.html

Originally Posted by inthehunt2
Can someone point us in the direction of a DIY link here on the forum? Looks like something I want to do this weekend! Thanks!

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_07.../photo_07.html
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:42 PM
  #36  
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Default low down

tried the turn the stock bolts thing...just not low enough for me...installed the bolt kit with shorter bushings...still would like to go lower...I have the F55 magnetic suspension...still rides/handles great...but like everyone has stated...your going to scrape more (just the front air dam)...but I just love the look!..(see my profile for pic)

Last edited by Bob06COUPE; May 7, 2009 at 09:46 PM.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:54 PM
  #37  
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Dont understand why it sits so much higher then mine. Mine are all the way and it looks like we have at least an i1 1/2 inch difference. Don't know if the F55 makes a difference

Originally Posted by Bob06COUPE
tried the turn the stock bolts thing...just not low enough for me...installed the bolt kit with shorter bushings...still would like to go lower...I have the F55 magnetic suspension...still rides/handles great...but like everyone has stated...your going to scrape more (just the front air dam)...but I just love the look!..(see my profile for pic)
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Old May 7, 2009 | 10:18 PM
  #38  
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Thanks woulddog!!!!

An education here would help save me a ton of time. Two questions:

1 - When lowering the FRONT, how much does one turn CCW net in terms of dropping the front end when measuring from ground to the top of the wheel-well area of the fender?

2 - When lowering the REAR, how much does one turn CCW net in terms of dropping the rear end when measuring from ground to the top of the wheel-well area of the rear-quarter?

Thanks!
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Old May 7, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #39  
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Not sure on that, but I do know that tire size and tread depth will make some difference. Also some are set up from factory off the line in different ride heights to start. But the difference in spacer depth I believe is 3/8 -1/2 inch difference.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:49 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by inthehunt2
Thanks woulddog!!!!

An education here would help save me a ton of time. Two questions:

1 - When lowering the FRONT, how much does one turn CCW net in terms of dropping the front end when measuring from ground to the top of the wheel-well area of the fender?

2 - When lowering the REAR, how much does one turn CCW net in terms of dropping the rear end when measuring from ground to the top of the wheel-well area of the rear-quarter?

Thanks!
Remember, woulddog used aftermarket bolts, not stock bolts. The aftermarket bolts will allow you to go lower than the stock bolts.

Also, there is no direct link to number of turns and inches of drop.

What I do recommend is that IF you car is already level and even, take some finger nail polish and, BEFORE you start to turn the bolts, make a line along the length of the bolt (that is sticking up through the spring) and a matching line on the spring itself. This aids in counting your turns so you can do the exact same number of turns on each side.
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