Excellent work!! On a system this complex, it's going to take a TECH II to figure out what sensor is causing the trip point to set.

BC

 

Thanks Curlee! I tech IIed the hell out of it, did not solve it but did point me to the yaw which was replaced for code C0196.

It almost drove me insane(not far from it as is)

Oh and I almost forgot, I replaced my throttle body which was ported. Not much that was left unchecked.(speed sensors, brake lines, calipers). I was told that even the TB has to do with the Active Handling system and it made sense.

If my post helps one person, I'll be happy. I didnt find the scientific solution but it feels good not to be afraid of my car anymore.

 

If you have gone that far into the circuit, your probably one of the forum experts in this area Well done.
I have a couple of those same type of trouble circuits that I had to get too familiar with.

A couple of thoughts trying to think out of the box, if you don't mind listening:


Have you tried to desensitize the YAW sensor. If it that sensitive to excessive vibrations, find a material that you can use to keep it firmly mounted but more isolated from any additional vibrations from external mods.

Check the female pins for proper tension on the male pins. This killed me on the WSS issues. Come to find out, most of the female pins had a very poor tension on the male pins and any vibration or harness movement would cause a WSS DTC. Ive found numerous bad female pins. You can use a dental pick to bend down tung if you find a loose female pin.

Heres the male pin that I used to track down the issue:



Bad female pin on the right WSS connector:



Hope this helps



Bill

 

I've been through the ringer on this but unfortunately I am not even a shade tree mechanic.

You know, I had the same idea about padding the yaw but never got around to it.Knowing that I could make it go away by removing my exhaust gave me a great sense of relief. I thought to myself, at least I have some control and know its not something that will get worse. Sucks to be defeated by a gremlin!


Thanks for the info Bill! Nice write up with the pics and all. I may PM you tomorrow to tell you why I was messing with the connectors in your write up 5mins ago. I fear the gremlin but I suspect it may be my allignment.

 

Hey,,,,being RETIRED USN, I have a SOFT SPOT for brother service mambers!

Thanks for serving and ( kicken ***) and putting your life on the line!!!!!

Any time you need HELP,,, you know where Im at!

Bill

 

Thats really nice of you Mr. Curlee! Thank you for your kindness and service as well! 28+yrs equals a lot or sacrifice!







Rod

 

 

I tried to read through this thread from the beginning but after an hour of reading, I realized I still had several more pages to go.

So without being fully up to speed on this issue, let me just ask one silly question.

Why not just remove the connector(s) that are suspect altogether by cutting them out and then solder and heat shrink the wires together so there is no more question about possible faulty contacts causing the issue?

 

Skip the telescoping steering wheel option

 

After going back and reading though some of the info on page 12, I see some photos of the connector that make it appear to be part of the sensor itself, which means it's gonna be almost impossible to try to get in there and make solid solder connections to it. It appears there are only four pins total on that connector. If you could devise a better way to make a solid and permanent connection to those pins that would probably be a good way to go. What GM should have used are barrel pins that make a much more solid contact all the way around the circumference of the pin and insure proper contact and are more vibration resistant.

By the way, I'm not sure I agree with the earlier comments to use dielectric grease on the connector pins. Dielectric grease is really used mainly to keep water out of connectors and prevent oxidation, and this is not the problem here. Dielectric grease on pins can actually make the problem worse, since it is an insulator and it will also lubricate making movement/vibration of the pins even easier. There is no worry of water getting in this connector and this would not be a good application to put it in since it could act to prevent metal to metal contact and make things worse. I would recommend putting the connectors together clean and dry.

http://s680.photobucket.com/albums/v..._AV8R/?start=0

 

Fred

The sad part is that the harness in question plugs into the Steering Wheel Speed Sensor (SWPS). Theres on pigtail to solder the harness to. I suppose that you could dissect the SWPS and remove the pins and replace them with wires. Not many people are willing to destroy a $200+. part to experiment with. If mine was failing daily, I might try that but, so far my repair is working well. (Imagine the sound of knocking on wood )

Heres a picture of the sensor and the harness connected to it:



BC

 

Yea, I saw that after I made the first post. It looks like the only solution would be to somehow tighten the pins, which it appears is what the new plastic "comb" does. I think they should have used barrel pins on this so they got better contact and it was more vibration resistant.

As I posted above, I would NOT recommend putting any dielectric or silicone grease on the pins or connector. Grease is only going to make the problem worse. The connector should be put together clean and dry.

 

i got the comb, the lights stayed off for about 75 miles (which is the most it ever stayed off while having this problem) after that there back on and now my abs my brake and my service active handling lights are on! car is heavily modded and dout that gm would repair it under warr. plus i dont trust most there techs with my car, any info would help, tomm i'm gonna try to insulate the YAW sensor

 

If I could figure out how to attach files to this forum I would post the 2008 wire diagrams.

The system uses wheel speed sensors, a brake pedal position sensor, brake fluid pressure sensor, steering wheel position sensor, yaw rate sensor, and a lateral accelerometer sensor.

My experience with other vehicles that have had ABS related problems is that they are usually caused by a bad wheel speed sensor, and they do seem to be prone to failure. I'm not saying that is the problem here, but it is something to consider.

Intermittent problems are usually traced to a bad contact or connector somewhere in the system. There is an additional connector shown on the wire diagram that both the steering wheel sensor inputs, and yaw an lateral accelerometer signals go through. I don't know the location of this connector, but it is shown on the wire diagram. That would probably be something worth tracking down. In addition to checking the signal paths, I would probably also check the 5 volt reference signal that come from the Electronic Brake Control Module to both the Steering sensor and the accelerometers and make sure it is good.

If my car were exhibiting this problem, I would locate every single connector associated with the system and carefully inspect each one under magnification and test for loose pins and make sure all connections were solid. I suspect all these problems will be traced back to one or more bad connections. It's just a matter of locating and fixing them.

 

Is there a way to turn off the self telescopic steering column? I'd like to leave it in one place.

RMX

 

no other ideas?

 

I spoke with Steve Mchenry today and will get back with him tonight. He says it may be three things causing this...
1. the yaw rate sensor
2. the steering position sensor
3. the lateral accelerometer

This differs from the three things the stealership told me

1. the yaw rate sensor ( which I had them perform... did not fix problem)
2. go through each pin on the BCM and see if one was pulled out
3. my 345/30/19 wheels are too big and I need to go back to stock sizes.

This problem WILL be corrected... sooner or later...

 

 

i wanna drive my car off a bridge bc of these lights!!!!!!!!!!

 

I just got into a used 2006 Z06 and after the first 1000 miles or so, I suddenly am seeing the following:

-Car pulls right constantly except at lower speeds, worse at high speed
-"Service Active Handling" (DIC)
-"Service Vehicle Soon" (DIC)
-Tire pressure warning, also in DIC (too high on opposite corners)
-The little car with skidmarks icon on the dash is lit up all the time (AH?)
-Right blinker stops working sometimes. Totally stops working.
-Cruise control won't work
-Reverse lights won't come on

I have yet to check fuses, assuming there was more to it than that. now this thread makes me think I'm right. Tire pressure can be fixed easily.

I did have a dead battery recently, but it's good now.

I had the car at the dealer for a $79 alignment, car still pulls hard to the right. Some fix that was.

Right now, I can honestly say I've never been more PO'd at a car and the a-hole who sold it to me....assuming he knew all this stuff had been occuring. But then, he only drove it about 1500 miles in his 1 year of ownership. Maybe he had it quick-fixed and cut his losses by selling it to me.

So has anyone here had the combination of problems I've listed above?