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Wheel Bearing?

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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 08:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs
I thought about that, but I have a few reasons not to dump another $380 into this:

- I am not positive the wheel bearing has in fact gone bad. Typically when bearings go bad they make noise turning in both directions, not just one, and they get louder with time; this has stayed the same for months now. I am only replacing it because I (and the mechanics who looked at the car) can't figure out what else that grinding noise could be.

- The wheel bearing started making noise at 40K miles; I have been told by both tuners and dealerships that it is very rare for wheel bearings to go bad at all in these cars, let alone this soon. If the bearing did in fact go bad, this was either a fluke or the result of hitting a big pothole or similar; I have no reason to believe any of the other bearings on the car are going to go bad any time soon.

- Its a bearing. Not a tire, or a shock absorber, or a set of brake pads... The car won't become "unbalanced" just because there is a different bearing in one side.
if you have checked it all, why not wait untill it gets worse, and be sure!!
with the tire off and rotor off, if the bearing is bad it will feel rough when you turn it, irregular.
I don't like replacing parts unless I'm sure what is causing the problem.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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My question wasn't on replacing one bearing; it was about replacing one bearing/hub with a completely different bearing/hub on the same axle. I would not make the assumption, but it would seem reasonable to me that a tech would tell me to replace only one wheel hub/bearing, if it was the same one on the other wheel, i.e., GM. The SKF racing would appear to be different.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AORoads
My question wasn't on replacing one bearing; it was about replacing one bearing/hub with a completely different bearing/hub on the same axle. I would not make the assumption, but it would seem reasonable to me that a tech would tell me to replace only one wheel hub/bearing, if it was the same one on the other wheel, i.e., GM. The SKF racing would appear to be different.
It is not. The hub is identical; it has to be, since it mounts in the same spot and interfaces with the exact same parts that are in the other side. If you read up on the SKS bearing you will see that the only difference is where the ball races themselves are located withing the bearing.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 08:56 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by pmj341
if you have checked it all, why not wait untill it gets worse, and be sure!!
with the tire off and rotor off, if the bearing is bad it will feel rough when you turn it, irregular.
I don't like replacing parts unless I'm sure what is causing the problem.
I already did that: I put nearly 9 THOUSAND miles on this, including 3 autocross events. My patience simply ran out
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs
So, erm, how do you think a wheel hub "adds performance"?
haha, well I don't know, but they sure try to sell it like it does from the web page

LG Motorsports would like to introduce a performance hub for your C5 and C6 with the heart of a ZR1. SKF manufactures the hub unit for the ultimate Corvette, the new ZR1 and is offering the same technology to the C5 and C6 owner.

The SKF Corvette Racing Hub unit is designed to provide high stiffness during cornering, thereby reducing piston knock-back and the need to tap the brakes (confidence tap). It is also designed for durability and to maintain preload at sustained loading of 1.2g! All this adds up to faster lap times and better driver feedback. If you have upgraded your Corvette's performance, you will want these SKF hubs.

You gain increased stiffness for better brake performance under high loads, higher preloads, <10 micron run-out and much increased durability. Under race and competitive use you may go an entire season without replacement.

Improve your Corvette's handling, brake performance and hub durability with these new SKF Performance hubs.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by kev1n
haha, well I don't know, but they sure try to sell it like it does from the web page
Lol... You have to read the whole thing, not just look for buzzwords
Its a heavy duty hub designed to last longer and hold up better in "performance applications" (I.E. Racing). There is nothing about it whatsoever that makes the car drive, feel or behave differently.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 03:53 PM
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Default Update - Got the wheel bearing in.

So I replaced the wheel bearing. Also replaced all 4 shocks with Bilstein Sports, replaced all 4 rotors, and replaced all brake pads.

The car still makes a grinding sound when I take fast left hand turns. It sounds like the tire is rubbing on the wheel liner, but I can't find any evidence of anything rubbing. I'm at a loss diagnosing this, and I took it to two different shops which also couldn't figure out what it was. I guess I can take comfort in knowing what it *isn't*. But what could it be?
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 04:29 PM
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Could it be a sway bar link?
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 06:23 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by timd38
Could it be a sway bar link?
Don't think so; it is definitely a grinding noise; sway bar links make clunking of popping noises only when the swaybar flexes...
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 07:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs
So I replaced the wheel bearing. Also replaced all 4 shocks with Bilstein Sports, replaced all 4 rotors, and replaced all brake pads.

The car still makes a grinding sound when I take fast left hand turns. It sounds like the tire is rubbing on the wheel liner, but I can't find any evidence of anything rubbing. I'm at a loss diagnosing this, and I took it to two different shops which also couldn't figure out what it was. I guess I can take comfort in knowing what it *isn't*. But what could it be?
A couple of possibilities........ A rear wheel bearing that only acts up under the stress of side load during hard turn ? The opposite front bearing being side loaded from the inside out ? Rear axle movement in hub causing concealed contact during hard turns ? An amplified head set with remote mic's may help you isolate / pin point the problem.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 10:03 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs
So I replaced the wheel bearing. Also replaced all 4 shocks with Bilstein Sports, replaced all 4 rotors, and replaced all brake pads.

The car still makes a grinding sound when I take fast left hand turns. It sounds like the tire is rubbing on the wheel liner, but I can't find any evidence of anything rubbing. I'm at a loss diagnosing this, and I took it to two different shops which also couldn't figure out what it was. I guess I can take comfort in knowing what it *isn't*. But what could it be?
Did you check the axle nuts? There is a TSB out about them being the wrong torque spec and there are new nuts and torque specs as per the TSB.. It makes the kind of noise you mentioned...
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 10:20 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by C6~Missle
Did you check the axle nuts? There is a TSB out about them being the wrong torque spec and there are new nuts and torque specs as per the TSB.. It makes the kind of noise you mentioned...
No, I did not... Any details on that?
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs
No, I did not... Any details on that?
here ya go:

Tapping or Scraping Noise From Rear Wheel Area (Replace Wheel Drive Shaft Nut) #07-04-95-001 - (09/26/2007)

Models: 2004-2008 Chevrolet Corvette and 2004-2008 Cadillac XLR
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment on a tapping or a scraping noise coming from the rear wheel area.

Cause
This condition may be due to the torque on the wheel drive shaft nut relaxing over time.

Correction
Replace the left and the right wheel drive shaft nut following the procedure below.

Remove the center cap from the rim.
Remove and discard the wheel drive shaft nut.
Apply LOCTITE™ 272, or equivalent, to the threads of the axle shaft.
Install the nut and tighten to the new specification.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 215 N·m (160 lb ft).

Install the center cap to the rim.
Important: The vehicle should not be driven for 24 hours following the repair in order to allow the thread lock to cure.
Parts Information
Part Number.....10257766
Description......Nut
Qty................2 (one per side)

Warranty Information: Labor op F9712 0.3 hr.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #34  
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Thanks a lot. I will do that
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 11:15 PM
  #35  
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For future reference, when checking a bearing, leave the tire on and grab the springs as close to the wheel as possible. Then spin the tire, any small vibration will translate to your hand.
What about the diff? Did you try changing the fluid?
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:16 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs
Thanks a lot. I will do that
Dont TQ to 160 ft pounds. I did that and it resulted in two broken half shafts a week apart. Both axles broke at the base of the spindle where it touches/goes through the hub. It pulls along the shaft and stretches it weakening it. Stock cars wont suffer since the power level doesnt stress it at 160ft lbs.

I installed the 3rd half shaft and only TQ'ed to 100 with red lock-tite and it is fine for a year and a half now and the addition of the s/c.

100ft pounds isnt letting the nut fall off. A broken axle at hiway speeds will result in an accident. A nut that falls off will only make noise and the shaft cant come out of the hub. If you saw how hard it is to get one out you would know why.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:18 AM
  #37  
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To check the bearings, set the TQ wrench to 100 and if you get a click dont mess with whats not broke. I was 130 miles from home when the 2nd one broke....at 11pm at night.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by djbrun
For future reference, when checking a bearing, leave the tire on and grab the springs as close to the wheel as possible. Then spin the tire, any small vibration will translate to your hand.
What about the diff? Did you try changing the fluid?
Diff was taken apart by Cartek and had a hardened output shaft installed in it, then got re-sealed with a fresh fill of GM diff oil. It made noise both before and after the procedure so I know that's not it
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 10:33 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
To check the bearings, set the TQ wrench to 100 and if you get a click dont mess with whats not broke. I was 130 miles from home when the 2nd one broke....at 11pm at night.
Thanks guy. Will check. Hey do you happen to know the size of that nut? My biggest socket is 24" and the nut looks like its bigger than that?
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs
Thanks guy. Will check. Hey do you happen to know the size of that nut? My biggest socket is 24" and the nut looks like its bigger than that?
Some say 33mm some say 34mm. Or a 1 5/16" which is in the middle...
.http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-nut-size.html

Last edited by nwc6; Jun 29, 2009 at 12:17 PM.
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