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From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Wheel Bearing?
I think my passenger side front wheel bearing is going bad. It doesn't make any sound unless I take a quick left hand turn, then I can hear a grinding noise. I've taken the car to the shop twice and no one can figure out what it is, so I'm just going to replace the damn thing myself since its been bothering me for months now.
So, the question... Where can I get a C6 wheel bearing for a good price?
Any advice on replacing it? Looks like a pretty straight forward job...
Replace the whole hub. It's easier and less expensive than trying to replace the bearing inside the hub. You'll have to take the front suspension apart but that isn't a big deal. The hub is held in by three bolts.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by black06vette
Replace the whole hub. It's easier and less expensive than trying to replace the bearing inside the hub. You'll have to take the front suspension apart but that isn't a big deal. The hub is held in by three bolts.
I think I might have one, but I'd just buy a new one from GM if I were you. You can't go wrong replacing it with a new one. The last thing you want is to do the job twice. Give me a few minutes and I'll get the part # for you.
They are $334.60 a piece my price, List is like $468, ouch. Let me know if you want one, I can probably get it by Monday. I know it's a steep price, but it's worth it to only do it once.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Also, when replacing the hub bearing, do I need to replace the bolts that hold the hub into the control arm, or can I re-use the stock ones?
And do the new hub assemblies come with studs?
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by PowerLabs
Also, when replacing the hub bearing, do I need to replace the bolts that hold the hub into the control arm, or can I re-use the stock ones?
And do the new hub assemblies come with studs?
You can re-use the stock bearings, but you do need to use red lock-tite on them when they go back together.
The upgraded ones are probably worth the cost. It's the same money. I'm always leary of the aftermarket ramifications of things though. I know if I use the GM part it's going to work as advertised. The last thing you want is to get spend a lot of money and then have to spend more to get it to work. I'm not saying this will be the case but when you step into the aftermarket world there is always the chance. With a procharged c6 you know this already though.
I would think you'd want to do both sides, as in the case of tires or shocks. If one hub adds better performance to that corner, then how would the car react on the other 3 oem hubs ? I would think at least get the same one on the common axle.
I would think you'd want to do both sides, as in the case of tires or shocks. If one hub adds better performance to that corner, then how would the car react on the other 3 oem hubs ? I would think at least get the same one on the common axle.
I agree, you should at least replace both fronts, they both have the same miles on them, so if one is gone the other one is not far behind!!
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by kev1n
I would think you'd want to do both sides, as in the case of tires or shocks. If one hub adds better performance to that corner, then how would the car react on the other 3 oem hubs ? I would think at least get the same one on the common axle.
So, erm, how do you think a wheel hub "adds performance"?
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by pmj341
I agree, you should at least replace both fronts, they both have the same miles on them, so if one is gone the other one is not far behind!!
I thought about that, but I have a few reasons not to dump another $380 into this:
- I am not positive the wheel bearing has in fact gone bad. Typically when bearings go bad they make noise turning in both directions, not just one, and they get louder with time; this has stayed the same for months now. I am only replacing it because I (and the mechanics who looked at the car) can't figure out what else that grinding noise could be.
- The wheel bearing started making noise at 40K miles; I have been told by both tuners and dealerships that it is very rare for wheel bearings to go bad at all in these cars, let alone this soon. If the bearing did in fact go bad, this was either a fluke or the result of hitting a big pothole or similar; I have no reason to believe any of the other bearings on the car are going to go bad any time soon.
- Its a bearing. Not a tire, or a shock absorber, or a set of brake pads... The car won't become "unbalanced" just because there is a different bearing in one side.