I have the exact one.

 

I find that most people who get a cam WANT a good, lopey sound.

And as for LG as having the best cam prices...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-U4EvyPqpk


TSP Tsunami Cam

 

I'm not sure anyone read that. If this is your daily driver, then NO CAM FOR YOU!!!
Weather it's a baby cam or a wild cam, the price is the same. $1,800 to $2,200 installed by any prof. corvette tuner. To pay 2K and get only 30rwhp/20rwtq for a "Daily Driver Cam" is a waste of money. You can gain more power from a F.A.S.T. intake & Vararam. Those mods are always reversible when you are ready to trade-up. The headers w/ BB fusion when opened up will give the car a nice rumble.

There is no such a thing as choppy daily driver cam, just like there is no such thing as a woman a little bit pregnant...

Max out your bolt-on options w/ 3.7X or 3.90 gears and enjoy the car. Getting a cam that will not effect your daily drive ability is a waste of money mod.


here's a video of my vette
ECS H/C
LG LT headers
NPP exhaust
(08 LS3 C6)

 

I'm shocked that no one has jumped all over my prev. reply

 

For the first time ever, everyone agrees on something!

 

Interesting...so then maybe skip the cam. I just want to get all the bolt ons and i figured a head/cam package is usually the ideal way to go when doing either. I want the car to really open up, but i dont think i would like surging from what I am hearing. In an ideal world i would get to 500 rear wheel, but again want to avoid power adders to do it, as well as avoid pulling the motor (for stroking or the likes). I would probably feel a little better about a cam swap if i knew what this surging and low RPM drivability loss was actually like

 

also keep in mind, once you get pass 440rwhp, you will be shopping for a clutch upgrade within a yr....... at $2,500 installed its not cheap.

H/C drivability loss from idle to 2,000rpms. north of 2K everything is smoothe sailing. To get the most out of your cam, you'll need gears as well .....it doesnt end.

Do "all" the bolt-ons and if then you want to add real HP, get a s/c kit

 

Ahhhhh shoot. No guts..no glory. A cam can be added that will provide a nice bump in HP without too many issues. If you add rear end gearing to the mix, you can get a little more agressive on the cam.

If you're looking for 500 at the wheels with no issues, F/I or nitrous is your only answer. Those N/A that have 500 rwhp with no issues don't have the same definition or "no issues" that I do.

With an LS2 and no head swap, you won't get close to 500 even with a lumpy cam. If you can open the check book a little, 500 is easy with a centri supercharger. You can keep your manners and fuel eco too. Kind of win=win. Lots of folks spend the money on a cam swap and end up F/I in the long run. If you even think you might want the extra power, save your coins for the F/I setup. The cam swap is a waste if you eventually wind up F/I.

If you're set on a cam swap, mid 220's on the intake with a little more on the exhaust on a 114LSa will get you a nice increase without too many bad habits. Same cam on a 116LSA might make a pretty good blower cam too.

 

F/I makes me sad...but for the sake of argument who makes a good one and what is the going price?

 

?? SOME UNITS GET VERY HOT IN THE SUMMER..

 

The car in the video of the cam sound you like belongs to forum member darthstimpy. Try PMing him and asking what his mods are.

 

if that's the case then I'd look for a cam with negative overlap @.050 duration(add intake and exhaust durations then divide by 2 and subract the lsa multiplied by 2) this should help minimize surging...my custom 218/230 116 can literally be lugged around at 1k rpms just like stock

 

The only way to know what this is like is to ride in a car with a cam that's like the one you think that you'll end up installing in your car. This is too subjective to "know" based on written words.

Also, I have question for you. Does your car surge or have any lope, now? My Vette did both when it was stock, as did my prior Vette. My 1991 Suburban does both as does my wife's Porsche. When I installed the cam/heads it just amplified the existing lope and surge because the valves are open more now, consequently, the vacuum is lower and that contributes to these forms of "roughness."

I hope this helps.

 

i made a car
LG headers LG xpipe
Vararam intake
G6X3
tune ,,, made 450 RWHP on dyno jet
Daily use ,, lovely car
i will go for lg

 

My advice is to get the GM Hot Cam. It is very reasonably priced, designed and made by GM, EZ to tune, and has very reasonable specs. Power gains are very respectable. A national performance magazine recently did a dyno test comparing several different cams, and the Hot Cam was right in the ballpark.

It DOES have a nice sounding, musclecar type idle, AND it is very mild mannered on the street. No surging, crummy throttle response or poor gas mileage, will easily pass an emissions test.

With regard to the various specs, duration is the number of degrees of rotation that the valves are open. The first number is the intake valve, the second is the exhaust valve. A "straight pattern" cam has the duraton the same for both valves, while a "split duration" has different durations for each valve. Most split duration cams have more duration on the exhaust side, to aid in scavenging the cylinder of combustion gases, make room for the air/fuel mix coming in. Since you have long-tube headers, this is not so important for you.

Overall duration is what creates more power, especially at higher RPMs. It also is what creates overlap, which is when both the intake and the exhaust valves are open at the same time. This is what creates the choppy idle.

Lift is the height in inches that the camshaft will open the valve. OEM performance cams typically have lift in the .525" range, while most aftermarket cams go up to .575" or slightly higher. Above that, (say .600" lift) requires very stiff valvesprings that only last for 20K miles or so, and possibly increased valvetrain noise. FOr a daily driver, not recommended.

Lobe separation angle (LSA) is the relationship between the two valve events. OEM cams have very wide LSA's (117+), resulting in a very smooth idle, smooth power curve, low emissions. Aftermarket performance cams have much tighter LSAs, typically 112 or 114. THe Hot Cam has a 112 LSA, which gives it a slightly choppy idle, and great midrange, but it also has fairly mild duration and lift. Great combo for a daily driver.