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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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From: Cameron NC
Default Tpms ?

I tried this question on the autox and roadracing forum and didn't get a lot of help so I'll give it a try over here.......
I have a tire pressure monitor out on my car ('05 z51) and the car will not allow me to disable the active handling. Is there a way to bypass the TMPS or to tune it out of the car? I bought stock "08 wheels for track use and didn't realize I needed to put TPM's in them and every other set of track wheels I may buy. I would personally rather manually check tire pressure than spending $400 bucks extra on every set of rims I buy for TPM's.
Not trying to sound like a jerk (usually don't have to try), but I've already heard everyones opinions on why they believe I should use tire pressure monitors......I want to know if there is an alternative to using them that still allows me to turn off the active handling.......thanks, Todd
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 12:57 PM
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I hate it, myself.

I believe you are able to totally shut off all nannies by holding the button still, even with the TPMS gone. I tried it the last time I was at the dragstrip, and I THINK it let me turn everything off. Worth checking anyway.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 04:08 PM
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So since my car doesnt have any of the TPMS sensors its in active handling all the time??? Just wondering because if so then i need to fix it.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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BEZ06 should probably chime in here.... he is the most knowledgeable guy regarding TPMS.

In any event... YES... you DO NEED TPMSs in all your wheels, for driving.
If you do not have them (or have a faulty one), if you try to exceed certain driving parameters, the computer will not allow this, and you WILL BE IN "Limp" mode.

A "trick" that some people use... get 4 TPMSs, firmly fix/mount them in a piece of polyurethane (plastic) pipe. Activate them. Cap the ends of the pipe off. Drill a hole in one of the caps and insert a tire valve (a metal one, so you can "fix" it in place). Put air in the pipe to 30 lbs.
Store the pipe in your rear storage compartment.

Voila.... you now have 4 working (valid) TPMSs, no matter what wheels you mount.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by NTMD8R
BEZ06 should probably chime in here.... he is the most knowledgeable guy regarding TPMS.

In any event... YES... you DO NEED TPMSs in all your wheels, for driving.
If you do not have them (or have a faulty one), if you try to exceed certain driving parameters, the computer will not allow this, and you WILL BE IN "Limp" mode.

A "trick" that some people use... get 4 TPMSs, firmly fix/mount them in a piece of polyurethane (plastic) pipe. Activate them. Cap the ends of the pipe off. Drill a hole in one of the caps and insert a tire valve (a metal one, so you can "fix" it in place). Put air in the pipe to 30 lbs.
Store the pipe in your rear storage compartment.

Voila.... you now have 4 working (valid) TPMSs, no matter what wheels you mount.
yes i have had it for years works great
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NTMD8R
BEZ06 should probably chime in here.... he is the most knowledgeable guy regarding TPMS.

In any event... YES... you DO NEED TPMSs in all your wheels, for driving.
If you do not have them (or have a faulty one), if you try to exceed certain driving parameters, the computer will not allow this, and you WILL BE IN "Limp" mode.
not true, a year ago I bought an extra set of wheelsm &tires and put them on without re-registering TPMS. Old spare wheels sit next to Vette in garage. After driving about 50 miles or so the DIC warns me to service TPMS system, but otherwise car acts normally. When I park in garage, TPMS registers wheels sitting next to car. I have an 07, perhaps earlier cars act differently. I have put 13K miles on including 2 trips out west where I drove the car the way the designers intended
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cadguymark
not true, a year ago I bought an extra set of wheelsm &tires and put them on without re-registering TPMS. Old spare wheels sit next to Vette in garage. After driving about 50 miles or so the DIC warns me to service TPMS system, but otherwise car acts normally. When I park in garage, TPMS registers wheels sitting next to car. I have an 07, perhaps earlier cars act differently. I have put 13K miles on including 2 trips out west where I drove the car the way the designers intended
yes i have done the same and have went for a few weeks, but once i jumped on it for real from a dead stop and launched very good i got the xx service wheel sensors and i could tell the car was slower
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by NTMD8R
BEZ06 should probably chime in here.....
I wish I had something to add, but it seems that different cars manufactured at different times act a little differently.

When I had an '05 coupe I did some testing. If I ran with 2 wheels with sensors and 2 wheels without sensors, the car reacted immediately by not allowing my to go into Comp Mode or turn off AH all the way (IIRC, I could turn off TC).

With my '06 Z06, if I do the same thing as above (2 wheels with sensors and 2 without), I'm able to go into Comp Mode and turn AH off completely.

With both cars, if I run with no sensors at all I can go into Comp Mode and turn AH off all the way. However, after approximately one hour of driving (and that's one hour without turning off the ignition) I get a "Service Tire Monitor" message and AH comes back on and I'm unable to turn it off. However, after I shut the car down and restart and clear any messages, I'm able to go into Comp or turn off AH for about another hour of running.

I was at the NCM HPDE at NJMP a couple weeks ago. After putting on my track wheels/tires which have sensors in them, I had a hard time registering one of the sensors (the batteries in my tool were low). I was running in Comp Mode and in the first session I had an "xx psi" from that sensor and the AH came back full on and started jerking the car around in a couple of tight corners, and coming out of one of them, when I put down the throttle the car died due to it pulling timing and reducing fuel flow.

I tried reprogramming the sensors again and didn't have any problems after that.

So.....cars built at different times may act differently with a bad sensor, only 2 sensors, low tire pressures (such as you might run in DRs), or no sensors at all. You'll probably just have to try it in your car.

Bob
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 10:15 PM
  #9  
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From: Cameron NC
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thanks for the help. I knew I couldn't be the only person to have this problem. I was at Roebling Road Sunday and could not get my active handling off and car went into limp mode. I knew the tpm was out in my front right prior to getting on the track, but didn't realize how it was going to effect my car. Needless to say, it was very frustrating. Thanks for all the help. Seems like there are a couple was to "cheat" the system.....Todd

Last edited by thnkfast; Aug 6, 2009 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 01:40 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by NTMD8R
BEZ06 should probably chime in here.... he is the most knowledgeable guy regarding TPMS.

In any event... YES... you DO NEED TPMSs in all your wheels, for driving.
If you do not have them (or have a faulty one), if you try to exceed certain driving parameters, the computer will not allow this, and you WILL BE IN "Limp" mode.

A "trick" that some people use... get 4 TPMSs, firmly fix/mount them in a piece of polyurethane (plastic) pipe. Activate them. Cap the ends of the pipe off. Drill a hole in one of the caps and insert a tire valve (a metal one, so you can "fix" it in place). Put air in the pipe to 30 lbs.
Store the pipe in your rear storage compartment.

Voila.... you now have 4 working (valid) TPMSs, no matter what wheels you mount.
I was thinking about this today, only in reference to drag racing tires. Once you do this how do you keep the TPMSs transmitting? I thought they only transmit when the tires are rolling. Can you excite the sensors with the TPMS tool and get them to send for a while or is there another trick? I seem to remember a thread on this a while back and a few of the posters were having trouble getting it to work.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by rcmigpilot
I was thinking about this today, only in reference to drag racing tires. Once you do this how do you keep the TPMSs transmitting? I thought they only transmit when the tires are rolling. Can you excite the sensors with the TPMS tool and get them to send for a while or is there another trick? I seem to remember a thread on this a while back and a few of the posters were having trouble getting it to work.
it keeps sending every hour, a couple times i have switched my battery and, and after a couple minutes 1 will register or wake, the others will follow
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BEZ06
I wish I had something to add, but it seems that different cars manufactured at different times act a little differently.

When I had an '05 coupe I did some testing. If I ran with 2 wheels with sensors and 2 wheels without sensors, the car reacted immediately by not allowing my to go into Comp Mode or turn off AH all the way (IIRC, I could turn off TC).

With my '06 Z06, if I do the same thing as above (2 wheels with sensors and 2 without), I'm able to go into Comp Mode and turn AH off completely.

With both cars, if I run with no sensors at all I can go into Comp Mode and turn AH off all the way. However, after approximately one hour of driving (and that's one hour without turning off the ignition) I get a "Service Tire Monitor" message and AH comes back on and I'm unable to turn it off. However, after I shut the car down and restart and clear any messages, I'm able to go into Comp or turn off AH for about another hour of running.

I was at the NCM HPDE at NJMP a couple weeks ago. After putting on my track wheels/tires which have sensors in them, I had a hard time registering one of the sensors (the batteries in my tool were low). I was running in Comp Mode and in the first session I had an "xx psi" from that sensor and the AH came back full on and started jerking the car around in a couple of tight corners, and coming out of one of them, when I put down the throttle the car died due to it pulling timing and reducing fuel flow.

I tried reprogramming the sensors again and didn't have any problems after that.

So.....cars built at different times may act differently with a bad sensor, only 2 sensors, low tire pressures (such as you might run in DRs), or no sensors at all. You'll probably just have to try it in your car.

Bob
As usual BEZ06 is correct. I once went onto the track without one TPS being registered and my 2005 immediately displayed a Service Tire Monitor warning and I couldn't get into comp mode or fully disable TC/AH. It was flat dangerous with the system radically intervening on every curve. I had to exit after the first lap and set the errant sensor correctly.

My friend in a slightly newer model C6 can put his track wheels/tires on with no TPS's whatsoever and do 30 minute sessions without any problems. He's able to get into comp mode just fine.

I have one racer friend with a novel solution (similar to making the sealed, plastic tubes). He has four small go-cart tires with a TPS in each and band clamps them onto his roll cage bars in the rear cargo area. It works!
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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So then for drag racing which mode do you need to be in cause its getting confusing. Shouldnt AH & Comp mode be off? If so does that mean i have to put the TPMS back on the car cause if so that will not let me lower tire pressure.
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SETc6
So then for drag racing which mode do you need to be in cause its getting confusing. Shouldnt AH & Comp mode be off? If so does that mean i have to put the TPMS back on the car cause if so that will not let me lower tire pressure.
put them in a canister, and lower your tire pressure, i find AH&TC OFF WORKS BEST, some will say leave AH on, it will save your car, that's just my opinion though
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
yes i have done the same and have went for a few weeks, but once i jumped on it for real from a dead stop and launched very good i got the xx service wheel sensors and i could tell the car was slower
may have done that even with registered TPMS
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SETc6
So then for drag racing which mode do you need to be in cause its getting confusing. Shouldnt AH & Comp mode be off? If so does that mean i have to put the TPMS back on the car cause if so that will not let me lower tire pressure.
Absolutely, positively DO NOT go into Comp or turn AH off completely. There's no need to disable AH for straight line racing.

You can turn off TC (one push of the button), but if you start getting sideways your run is over anyway, and you can use all the help available to keep you out of the other lane or off the wall.

I'm not a drag racer but I recommend you search for posts by my fellow ranger Ranger, who is one of our very knowlegeable drag racers here on the forum.

Bob
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BEZ06
Absolutely, positively DO NOT go into Comp or turn AH off completely. There's no need to disable AH for straight line racing.

You can turn off TC (one push of the button), but if you start getting sideways your run is over anyway, and you can use all the help available to keep you out of the other lane or off the wall.

I'm not a drag racer but I recommend you search for posts by my fellow ranger Ranger, who is one of our very knowlegeable drag racers here on the forum.
Good advice from Bob.

Max Acceleration in a C6 and C6Z06: Use “Traction System Off”

That's the best thread I've seen for all the gory details it contains, including a picture of AH intervening on the drag strip.

Ranger
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Good advice from Bob.

Max Acceleration in a C6 and C6Z06: Use “Traction System Off”

That's the best thread I've seen for all the gory details it contains, including a picture of AH intervening on the drag strip.

Ranger
like i said some will say leave it on, i have only went side to side with it on... and never with it off, have you talked to the people who have hit the wall, and got a clear answer that it was off or is it just your opinion or pure speculation? i have had dozens of people with the c6 manual and automatic run with it off and went down the track with no problems, the skid marks on your post was how i went with a cold tire and AH on, i turn it off as soon as i start the car for all driving, you believe it helps from hitting the wall, i believe it helps to hit the wall
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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[QUOTE=BEZ06;1571068609]Absolutely, positively DO NOT go into Comp or turn AH off completely. There's no need to disable AH for straight line racing.

QUOTE]

does that mean you can turn it off for road racing
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
like i said some will say leave it on, i have only went side to side with it on... and never with it off, have you talked to the people who have hit the wall, and got a clear answer that it was off or is it just your opinion or pure speculation? i have had dozens of people with the c6 manual and automatic run with it off and went down the track with no problems, the skid marks on your post was how i went with a cold tire and AH on, i turn it off as soon as i start the car for all driving, you believe it helps from hitting the wall, i believe it helps to hit the wall
My info is based on interviews post-crash.

Beyond that, Dr.Ron and I both had incidents at an Atco rental same day. Fortunately we were both running Traction System Off (Agressive AH). So we stayed off the wall.

Turning AH off is all risk with zero reward. It isn't faster. It simply gives a greater likelihood of a wall incident if the car gets loose.

Ranger
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