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Help Needed on Header install problem

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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 10:05 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
I've installed brand "K" on 4 different Vettes and 1 GTO. None of these required any bending, prying or hammering. None had any interference fit issues. Each set literally slipped into place. One did have a bad flange that was quickly acknowledged by the manufacturer and vendor and a replacement was quickly dispatched...along with apologies from both the manufacturer and supplying vendor.

The manufacturing tolerance "variances" you allude to are not in the construction of your Corvette but you can continue to believe that if you wish. What's next?...an acetylene torch?

I'm willing to bet a case of beer that the car is not the problem (unless it has been wrecked) and put my money on the fact that you either have a tweaked set of headers (quality control issue) or your install technique is bad or some combination of those two.

Since I resolved the problem the post was started for my second post, this will be my last input. I will ask the mods to close the thread.

Motorhead, please be assured I do not want to argue with you and do not mean any disrespect. I know brand 'K' to be of top quality. I'm glad that your multiple install have gone well. There are those who have posted here with issues, even with brand 'K'. I will continue to believe that tolerances vary from car to car, as i have seen it with my own eyes. Also, I prefer my plasma cutter to a torch. I cannot be trusted with a torch, as I tend to start things on fire. Have fun with your car, as I will with mine.
Old Nov 28, 2009 | 10:10 AM
  #22  
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No argument intended. I just wanted to point out that you should not need a 2x4, a big hammer nor should you need to relocate the motor to get your new headers to fit.
Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:19 AM
  #23  
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Wally

Enjoy your headers. I know my wife likes them on her car. Get a good tune and you will even see better fuel mileage! At least we did.

Bill
Old Nov 28, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JW@JWMotoring.com
He said it for me.

I don't see a need to change anything. It clearly states Titanium Series which is the name for them. It also says titanium added. We never state titanium headers. We don't need to trick anyone to make sales.

Also if you have a problem with anything I sell come to me direct. Posting bad things about someone's product behind the keyboard doesn't help anyone.

I noticed a couple comments were deleted so it makes it look like Glenh was the only one we were talking to. Not the case.

Fair enough, I guess I was the only one that was fooled. I saw Titanium Series and thought they were made from Titanium. Kind of got me excited from the possible weight savings. I was very disappointed that they were still made from Stainless Steel. Mind you, both 321 and 347 has a little titanium in it to tie up the carbon during welding. It's not added for strength, just weldability. In fact, there are four stabilized grades of Stainless, 321 and 347 use titanium to keep the carbon from precipitating out in the heat affected zone of the weld. 304L and 316L just use low carbon content to keep it from precipitating out. And why is that a problem, because the material is no longer corrosion resistant and the welds will rust.

It's no biggie, I did add that I was impressed that you stand behind your product.
Old Nov 28, 2009 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by wallyj
Do you think your Gold Series credit card is made of gold? I did not think the headers were titanium. I read the information. It was very clear.
Darn, I thought they were made from Gold!!!

The difference of course is that some headers are actually made from Titanium, I don't know of any credit cards made of gold.
Old Nov 28, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #26  
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Hey Mike, glad everything worked out for you.

Mine had to have the rear mount undone and the motor jacked to get the passenger side in and yes there is adjustment there. The auto tranny lines are close, but a little prying will get them clear.

I'm always amazed by the naysayers who dis anything that doesn't conform to their way of thinking.
Old Nov 28, 2009 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sxeC6
Hey Mike, glad everything worked out for you.

Mine had to have the rear mount undone and the motor jacked to get the passenger side in and yes there is adjustment there. The auto tranny lines are close, but a little prying will get them clear.

I'm always amazed by the naysayers who dis anything that doesn't conform to their way of thinking.
Sounds like a lot of work to install headers. That's the way it was with my 01 Z28, hardest header install I've ever had. Had to move and beat things and even grind areas to get them to fit. What a pain!

But on the other hand, the header install I did on my C6 was by far the EASIEST I've ever done. They slipped right in and had plenty of clearance. So if people's way of thinking is that they rather have an easy install than a hard install, then I'll conform with them.
Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:21 AM
  #28  
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Did you get these headers installed? What was the fix for the passenger side?
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 07:38 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sxeC6
Hey Mike, glad everything worked out for you.

Mine had to have the rear mount undone and the motor jacked to get the passenger side in and yes there is adjustment there. The auto tranny lines are close, but a little prying will get them clear.

I'm always amazed by the naysayers who dis anything that doesn't conform to their way of thinking.
Thanks!
Old Nov 29, 2009 | 08:01 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
Did you get these headers installed? What was the fix for the passenger side?
I was not going to post on this thread anymore as I stated in post #21, but I forgot to ask the mods to close it, so here is my final (again) input.

I resolved the clearance issue by looseneing the 2 bolts on the bottom of the cradle and using a 2 x 4 to wiggle the engine over slightly as in post #3 . I did this twice and got adequate clearance. Did not spend more than 10 minutes on it. I wasted way more time putting up this thread and looking for answers than I did fixing the problem.

Everything is installed and looks good. Only problem I have is the ATF cooling lines must be hitting top of the tunnel plate, as I have an occasional buzz. I knew it might happen after I moved the lines. I should have made absolutely sure before putting in all those bolts. I'll take it apart again next weekend and fix that properly.

Now I'll see about getting this thread closed as most posts to it were way off topic and amounted to unwarranted abuse of the vendor.




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