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Tpsm craziness !!!!!!!!!

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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Default Tpsm craziness !!!!!!!!!

The issue is not being able to get a reprograming of TPMS completed and thus not being able to put the car in Competition Mode. Then the computer activates AH in any turn so you are putting down the throttle and the computer is putting down the brakes. Basically you can't drive at any speed and your brakes wear quickly. The tire icon on dash comes on and DIC message to "service TPMS" illuminates.

I have two sets of stock wheels both comp grey (I think that means they can't be too old). One for track and one for street.

I have the Ateq VT10 sensor programer about 1 year old with brand new battery.

I'm going to explain in detail what happened so I don't miss anything and then I hope someone can advise me what to do.

Last night when re programing track wheels I got to the last wheel (LR) and it would not finish the programing. Tried several new batteries. Then rolled one of the street wheels up next to the (LR) tire and the programing finished properly with two honks.

Unfortunately, the programing doesn't stick and after about 20 minutes the computer falls out of Comp Mode and AH makes life impossible.

So on the way to the track I got the DIC message and dash light. At the track I pulled up close to another C6Z and used his wheel to program the (LR) and all was good for 30 minutes. Next session the after reprograming again computer kicked me out of Comp mode after 10 minutes. Then the next session the (RF) decided to do the same thing so now I needed two cars with me sandwiched between to full the computer and get me reprogramed and into Comp Mode. Then the next session I only needed to use the (RF) but used some else's programer (don't know the name. Then when I got home I had to use two street wheels (LR and RF) with my Ateq to complete program.

So what the hell is going on? Do I have one bad sensor or two? Is this common? Could it be my cars computer or could the programer be partly to blame.

I have no problem with the street wheels.

If I had a spare TPSM (not mounted to wheel) could I use it to fake out the computer for more than one wheel or would I need two different sensors to do it. Want to be prepared for next time or be able to help someone else from going thru this crap.

Thanks,


DH
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 01:28 AM
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sounds like you have a bad sensoron that wheel that wont program. It sounds like you have the procedure down right. One thing to do is make sure you are pointing the tool antenna loooking thing right at the sensor. Dont point it at the rim point it at the tire above the sensor kinda aimed down at it. My wheels seem to be funky and i have better luck doing it that way. The tool just isnt strong enuf to energize the sensor thru the rim sometimes. Maybe its a sensor issue or battery not real strong? good luck with it
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by HANNY
sounds like you have a bad sensoron that wheel that wont program. It sounds like you have the procedure down right. One thing to do is make sure you are pointing the tool antenna loooking thing right at the sensor. Dont point it at the rim point it at the tire above the sensor kinda aimed down at it. My wheels seem to be funky and i have better luck doing it that way. The tool just isnt strong enuf to energize the sensor thru the rim sometimes. Maybe its a sensor issue or battery not real strong? good luck with it
Thanks, today they both worked and reprograming worked. But I did point at tire instead of the valve stem so maybe that means the battery/signal is getting weak.


DH
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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I have a Bartec TPSM tool, the directions that came with it say that the last tire is the left front. Anyway I have my sensors mounted in the center of my HRE wheels and I also need to shoot through the tire sidewall, won't program through the wheel.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by speedwaywhite
I have a Bartec TPSM tool, the directions that came with it say that the last tire is the left front. Anyway I have my sensors mounted in the center of my HRE wheels and I also need to shoot through the tire sidewall, won't program through the wheel.
Last tire is the Left Rear ..... have you done it and it worked with the Left front. If so which wheel did you start on



DH
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:27 PM
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Started with the RF and worked clock wise around the car to the LF. I am using the directions provided in GM service document ID #1550440. The directions are for an 05 (which I traded for the 08), I don't know if GM has changed it for 08 but the 05 instructions have worked for me each time I switch tires and wheels (about 6 times a year).
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by speedwaywhite
Started with the RF and worked clock wise around the car to the LF. I am using the directions provided in GM service document ID #1550440. The directions are for an 05 (which I traded for the 08), I don't know if GM has changed it for 08 but the 05 instructions have worked for me each time I switch tires and wheels (about 6 times a year).
Strange .... me and everyone I know except you start on LF and end on LR.


DH
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 11:59 AM
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I use a Schrader-Bridgeport TPMS tool and change track wheels frequently. I would always suggest you follow the proper sequence when setting the TPS's...start with the LF and end with the left rear. To truly solve the problem I would not bring other wheels into the equation. Stick with the wheels and sensors that are on your car. Don't potentially 'confuse' the system by rolling other wheels/sensors next to your own.

Make sure you know where the sensor is positioned on the wheel. If you have a 'non-conventional' wheel where the sensor is banded deep inside make sure you mark its position so you know where best to position the TPMS tool. In some instances the sensor might be too deep for the tool signal to reach...you might have to break the tire loose from the rim and position the TPMS tool close to the sensor set it. Hopefully, your sensors are postioned in a more convential manner close to the valve stem.

I don't know anything about your TPMS tool but make sure its set on the right continuous wave frequency. Perhaps your TPMS tool has somehow changed frequencies or if the tool is hunting for the right frequency perhaps you're letting learn mode time-out.

It hasn't happened in a long time but years ago I had couple instances where I couldn't get the final/Left Rear TPS to register properly. I even went on the track once knowing the final sensor wasn't set...it was downright dangerous with the nannies kicking-in at every corner. I exited after one lap and got the sensor registered properly.

When I couldn't get the final sensor set I would shutoff learn mode, the TPMS tool and then start the entire procedure from the beginning going around to each wheel in proper sequence. I would make sure my TPMS tool was set to the proper continuous wave frequency. In the few instances when I couldn't get the last sensor set, I had to cycle my tool through its various settings/frequencies to make sure it was on the proper continuous wave frequency and then it worked fine.

I suggest you keep trying making sure everything is being done correctly before replacing a sensor. BEZ06 is the resident forum expert on the subject. If he doesn't jump-in you might want to PM him and ask his opinion. Good luck!
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Wayne O
I use a Schrader-Bridgeport TPMS tool and change track wheels frequently. I would always suggest you follow the proper sequence when setting the TPS's...start with the LF and end with the left rear. To truly solve the problem I would not bring other wheels into the equation. Stick with the wheels and sensors that are on your car. Don't potentially 'confuse' the system by rolling other wheels/sensors next to your own.

Make sure you know where the sensor is positioned on the wheel. If you have a 'non-conventional' wheel where the sensor is banded deep inside make sure you mark its position so you know where best to position the TPMS tool. In some instances the sensor might be too deep for the tool signal to reach...you might have to break the tire loose from the rim and position the TPMS tool close to the sensor set it. Hopefully, your sensors are postioned in a more convential manner close to the valve stem.

I don't know anything about your TPMS tool but make sure its set on the right continuous wave frequency. Perhaps your TPMS tool has somehow changed frequencies or if the tool is hunting for the right frequency perhaps you're letting learn mode time-out.

It hasn't happened in a long time but years ago I had couple instances where I couldn't get the final/Left Rear TPS to register properly. I even went on the track once knowing the final sensor wasn't set...it was downright dangerous with the nannies kicking-in at every corner. I exited after one lap and got the sensor registered properly.

When I couldn't get the final sensor set I would shutoff learn mode, the TPMS tool and then start the entire procedure from the beginning going around to each wheel in proper sequence. I would make sure my TPMS tool was set to the proper continuous wave frequency. In the few instances when I couldn't get the last sensor set, I had to cycle my tool through its various settings/frequencies to make sure it was on the proper continuous wave frequency and then it worked fine.

I suggest you keep trying making sure everything is being done correctly before replacing a sensor. BEZ06 is the resident forum expert on the subject. If he doesn't jump-in you might want to PM him and ask his opinion. Good luck!
The Ateq VT10 has no frequency adjustments.

I am planning on backing it out of the garage so my spare wheels with sensors are not around when I mount the troublesome ones and try to reprogram.

Sensors and wheels are stock so I either aim right into the valve stem which has always worked or thru the tire which seemed to get the programing done on the LR sensor last time I tried.

Thanks


DH
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 08:27 PM
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My experience is that I get a better result when I aim the Tool
at the sensor through the tire... NOT via the Stem or through the Wheel.

It works every time for me.

By the way, for my 2007 the sequence is LF, RF, RR, LR.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NTMD8R
My experience is that I get a better result when I aim the Tool
at the sensor through the tire... NOT via the Stem or through the Wheel.

It works every time for me.

By the way, for my 2007 the sequence is LF, RF, RR, LR.
That is how I do it also.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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Thanks guys.

I will be swapping tires in the next couple of weeks. I will report back if all goes well aiming thru the tire or if I had to replace any sensors.


DH
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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all gm models starts with L/frt and ends in the L/rear. Sensors are to be programmed with the tool pointing thru the tire and not the wheel.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by NTMD8R
My experience is that I get a better result when I aim the Tool
at the sensor through the tire... NOT via the Stem or through the Wheel.

It works every time for me.

By the way, for my 2007 the sequence is LF, RF, RR, LR.
Sensors would not set...Found this on the forum and BINGO
Thanks
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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what do you mean by throught the tire?
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rovers2000
what do you mean by throught the tire?
You hold the programming tool next to the tire sidewall adjacent to the valve stem, not at the valve stem in the wheel rim. Here's a video:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1565322491-post2.html
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by RicK T
You hold the programming tool next to the tire sidewall adjacent to the valve stem, not at the valve stem in the wheel rim. Here's a video:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1565322491-post2.html
Looks like I never got back when I said I would

All my sensors were working good.

I now aim thru the tire and haven't had a problem since


DH
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:10 AM
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You can have the car learn the sensors in any order you like - they'll just appear in the incorrect position on the DIC.

The system doesn't know which direction the pressure signal is coming from, which why there has to be a programming order in the first place. You're telling it which sensor is in which position.

Last edited by torquetube; Oct 27, 2010 at 03:13 AM.
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