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Any value over 25% in the 192 field will cause the fans to run 100% all of the time
That is incorrect. My fans were programmed at 40%@192 and 90% for every value after 192 degrees and it worked flawless. I could site in an open garage and actually hear the fan increase its speed after 192 degrees. Never had a problem and the fans were not 100% at 192.
Now if your saying that the fans would be on all the time but not at 100%, I would agree with you. Nothing wrong with the fans being on a minimal speed, what you never want to do is command 100% at any temp.
I had the EXACT same problem. The problem turned out being the computer was fried just on the circut that controlled the fan. I did all of the things that you did- replaced the plug, replaced the module, hotwired the fan to see if it worked, tried to turn it on via the tech II, and refashed the stock program. I bought a new computer and it worked!
However a word of caution. After Frann at RPM diagnosed it as the computer, I went to the local dealership and bought a computer. The guys at the dealership said that they had to have the car to program the VIN into the new computer. I wont bore you with the details, but I eventually got someone with a GM diag system (not a tech II) to flash the VIN. If is is your computer, get the VIN flashed by the supplier who gives you the computer.
That is incorrect. My fans were programmed at 40%@192 and 90% for every value after 192 degrees and it worked flawless. I could site in an open garage and actually hear the fan increase its speed after 192 degrees. Never had a problem and the fans were not 100% at 192.
Now if your saying that the fans would be on all the time but not at 100%, I would agree with you. Nothing wrong with the fans being on a minimal speed, what you never want to do is command 100% at any temp.
No it is not incorrect. I can tell you for a fact that on my 2009 with E38 ECU if you command anything over 25% in the 192 degree field you will get 100% fan ALL OF THE TIME. Perhaps in older cars with earlier ECUs it is different?
No it is not incorrect. I can tell you for a fact that on my 2009 with E38 ECU if you command anything over 25% in the 192 degree field you will get 100% fan ALL OF THE TIME. Perhaps in older cars with earlier ECUs it is different?
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Update
Took it to the dealer and had the PCM flashed back to stock with a Tek-2. Nothing.
Had the fans commanded to turn on with a Tek-2. Nothing.
Took the plug on and off a bunch of times. Although the plug doesn't look damaged, the fan worked after a few tries. It looks like one of the contacts is pushed back. I can not move it at all though.
Now is where it gets strange. I went back to work and tried telling the fan to turn on via HP Tuners with VCM controls. That DOES NOT WORK. Once the car warmed up, the fans turned on.
Drove home; 20 miles later it stopped working again. That is SO ANNOYING!
I can't seem to find a plug for sale anywhere. I guess I'll just have to buy a new fan? Any ideas?
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
I'd jumper around the questionable pin/s in that connector before you invest in a new fan to see if that really is your problem.
Very first post on the thread:
Originally Posted by PowerLabs
- THE FAN WORKS
- THE FAN FUSE IS FINE
- THERE IS POWER AT THE FAN CONTROL MODULE
I found that I could run the fan by jumping the wires on the control module
I can pull the plug on the fan speed controller PWM module), jump the ground and power pins, and turn the fan on at full speed.
Then, 14 posts later:
Originally Posted by PowerLabs
I have a switch on it so I can continue tuning the car and driving it.
To clarify: If I understand correctly you bypassed the connection completely in your previous effort right? What I am suggesting is that you jumper past the pin that you believe is not making connection in the plug...NOT bypass the entire assembly (hotwire it) as you previously have done!
Last edited by Motorhead-47; Apr 6, 2010 at 11:44 AM.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by Motorhead-47
To clarify: If I understand correctly you bypassed the connection completely in your previous effort right? What I am suggesting is that you jumper past the pin that you believe is not making connection in the plug...NOT bypass the entire assembly (hotwire it) as you previously have done!
I bypassed the entire assembly. The circuit is very simple; the fan has two wires, the car has 3. It is power, ground and the signal wire. Jumping power and ground from the car harness to the fan makes it turn on. All the PWM is doing is closing that connection on and off 128 times per second for a length of time determined by the signal coming from the 3rd wire which goes back to the ECU.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Cut the plug and soldered the wires directly to the controller with heat shrink to protect the connections.
IT WORKS.
I also reprogrammed the fan tables using HP Tuner's new 2.5BAR OS, so my fan now turns on much earlier... It was 92F today and my coolant temps never went above 180F in stop and go traffic with the A/C on... Niiiice
Cut the plug and soldered the wires directly to the controller with heat shrink to protect the connections.
IT WORKS.
I also reprogrammed the fan tables using HP Tuner's new 2.5BAR OS, so my fan now turns on much earlier... It was 92F today and my coolant temps never went above 180F in stop and go traffic with the A/C on... Niiiice