FAST 102 on an LS2
No issues for clearance of the firewall which is very nice!
I have been trying to decide if it is worth upgrading my ported FAST 90 to a FAST 102. With my ported FAST 90, I was making 400rwhp/400rwtq with kooks headers and a ported tb. It doesn't look like I will gain much at all going from the 90 to the 102.
Since then, I have installed heads and a cam, but I still have the ported FAST 90. Heads and cam gives me 488rwhp/450rwtq on a mustang dyno through 3.90's.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-102-a.html
Fits perfect, easy install.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-102-a.html
Fits perfect, easy install.
Thanks!
I am taking off a stage 1 ported LS2 intake I got from Spin last year.
Currently I have A Vararam, AR Headers (1 3/4 w/cats), ported intake & TB with a street tune and make 381/382.
Not sure when I will be able to get dyno numbers as my tuner is out of town this weekend..
slightly beyond beyond. I managed to get to 408 RWHP/ 412 RWTQ
I would suggest getting to the DYNO and get some base numbers. Also
A Pro Tune will be necessary to see 400RWHP +
As far as track times LS1Lt1 and Dennis NJ have gone into the 10's. But thats not the average. 11.40 with a good set of tires and a reasonable 60'.
However, if you have milled heads you need to check the clearance to the valley pan. It comes with 2 little rubber bumpers to put on but when I noticed that when torqueing it down that it didn't feel right so I pulled it back off and and sure enough, they looked lile they might have been touching from the marks on the valley pan. I used some clay on the bumpers as well as all the port contacts just to be sure and the bumpers were definitly hitting.
For some stupid reason, they dont come with manifold gaskets so make sure you order new ones, the directions say you can use your stock ones but mine were all stretched out and wouldn't stay seated while trying to put the manifold on.
I talked to the vendor about the gasket issues I was having and he said that sometimes they work and sometimes they dont... I can't believe that with the money these things cost that they dont give you new gaskets!
Oh, one more thing, they do give you new oring gaskets for your injectors, make sure you use them. I thought they were in there for due diligence sakes and since I had new injectors and they all still looked new, I would opt to forego changing them. IDIOT!!! I had little micro leaks at every injector port. It was kind of hard to diagnose too since using the old starting fluid trick to find the leak didn't seem to give any feedback... When I finally figured it out, I realized the orings are actually bigger for the FAST 102mm than they are for the 90mm ... I know , I know, I'll follow the directions next time.
Hope this helps someone...
Last edited by Isaiah48; Apr 12, 2010 at 01:33 PM.
Unfortunately I am waiting on my tuner to free up some time to clean me up as it feels like I am lean above 5k rpm's so I will have to get re-tuned before I can strap it down on the dyno or go to the track.
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Unfortunately I am waiting on my tuner to free up some time to clean me up as it feels like I am lean above 5k rpm's so I will have to get re-tuned before I can strap it down on the dyno or go to the track.
getting the AFR happy was easy but the timing has its challenges.
Might try a colder and or diff plug to see if it will help as there is a "spot" around 4500rpm's that isn't cooperating with us.
getting the AFR happy was easy but the timing has its challenges.
Might try a colder and or diff plug to see if it will help as there is a "spot" around 4500rpm's that isn't cooperating with us.
I had the same issue with my FAST 90 so I'm not sure what is causing it, but I sure would like to know. I tried moving when my Power Enrichment comes in down to 3,000rpm and upped the PE fueling in that range as by as much as 15% and like I said, I'm still at 23-25 degrees...
Let me know what you find out if it doesn't get resolved in this thread...
Either way, you should never run a static amount of timing across your WOT area. If you do, you are lazy. Timing should go down as cylinder load goes up... MBT happens at peak cylinder load, and since cylinder load starts dropping as you approach redline, you should start adding more timing. I typically shoot for 24º at MBT (usually around 4800rpm) and 27º at peak horsepower, which can vary... but usually about 6000rpm for stock cam vehicles.
getting the AFR happy was easy but the timing has its challenges.
Might try a colder and or diff plug to see if it will help as there is a "spot" around 4500rpm's that isn't cooperating with us.
nailing down the A/f and timing down. Usually you don't have to mess with the Plugs. Just my 2 cts.
Check out what I found looking around....pretty cool. Lists all the parts you need.
http://www.fuelairspark.com/Company/...mSelector.aspx <----- (click here) below is just an image i stole off thier site..
Last edited by SweetS10v8; Apr 19, 2010 at 10:14 PM.
Either way, you should never run a static amount of timing across your WOT area. If you do, you are lazy. Timing should go down as cylinder load goes up... MBT happens at peak cylinder load, and since cylinder load starts dropping as you approach redline, you should start adding more timing. I typically shoot for 24º at MBT (usually around 4800rpm) and 27º at peak horsepower, which can vary... but usually about 6000rpm for stock cam vehicles.





















