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I own a 2007 Vette coupe--Automatic---2:56 gear-----It has CAI---cam---kooks headers & X pipe--160 stat--tuned-----what's the best bang for the $$$---for CYL HEADS----give me ALL your results-----this is a street car---not a drag or race car---THANKS !!!
Also, you should search this site and you will find a number in-depth test on heads and cams. Great source for real tests and facts. For a long time, I've subscribed to this magazine and think they do the best job in answering these types of questions.
With your combo...gears and automatic trans... you have to be careful about killing low speed torque with the wrong cylinder heads. Big ports will reduce port velocity in the lower RPM range.
do a search for "spinmonster" on this forum. very very knowledgeable about these engines. send him a pm and he will help you. he has helped a large number of people here. i am one. my ls2 a4 with cam,stock heads, ported t/b, ported stock intake, headers, springs, pushrods, converter, and his "tractionmonster" rear wheel mod, goes 7.46 seconds @ 92.50 mph in the 1/8 mile. gets 27 mpg on the highway also. you have to remember, it is the COMBINATION that gives you the best performance and streetability. i have a ball with it at the drags............. 516 crank hp, and 438 rear wheel hp. 419 rear wheel torque.........
Last edited by cranky; Jun 12, 2010 at 01:45 AM.
Reason: additions
What about having the stock heads worked on, ported, polished, etc? What kind of gains could one see with a car with full mods, cam inclduded? On a dynojet, I already make what is in my sig.
You still have the stock torque convertor? If so, you need a good higher stall convertor, say 2800-3000 rpm (max). It would be hardly noticeable until you got into it. With the stock convertor I doubt you'll see much real world performance increase just by changing heads. IMO
I picked up 7 mph in trap speed using a custom converter from these guys ( http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/ ) over using a higher stall from someone else, in my twin turbo GTO.
I know you said it's not a drag or race car, but it doesn't matter. If you are after better acceleration, get the converter. If all you want is a higher dyno, get the better heads, but you'll be slower versus just getting the converter.
Also, you should search this site and you will find a number in-depth test on heads and cams. Great source for real tests and facts. For a long time, I've subscribed to this magazine and think they do the best job in answering these types of questions.
With your combo...gears and automatic trans... you have to be careful about killing low speed torque with the wrong cylinder heads. Big ports will reduce port velocity in the lower RPM range.
THANKS !!! for this info !!!!!! This is what I was looking for !!!!!--
What about having the stock heads worked on, ported, polished, etc? What kind of gains could one see with a car with full mods, cam inclduded? On a dynojet, I already make what is in my sig.
Depending on how much you mill them, I'd say 20-30rwhp
What about having the stock heads worked on, ported, polished, etc? What kind of gains could one see with a car with full mods, cam inclduded? On a dynojet, I already make what is in my sig.
This is the thing... ( and I'm not picking on you )unless your driving around at peak HP all the time who cares what an engine makes at its peak. What it makes for avg hp through out the rpm range is more important for a street car than what it does at peak.
Yes to a drag queen that is stalled properly a peak number is important, but for a street car that sees the track once in a while ... you never use that peak number.. the avg number or power under the curve is much more important for fuel mileage and performance.
This is where the aftermarket heads shine over the P+P'ed OEM heads. Better flow characteristics with smaller runners to generate airspeed..This is where the AFR 205 used to shine over most of the others but the 215's TFS or AFR are not a bad way to go as well. Look closely at the numbers at low and mid range and then the peak to make your final decision on what would work best with your cam and application and goals.
Not saying that OEM heads are junk either, just saying given the choice I'd take the AFR or TFS.
This is the thing... ( and I'm not picking on you )unless your driving around at peak HP all the time who cares what an engine makes at its peak. What it makes for avg hp through out the rpm range is more important for a street car than what it does at peak.
Yes to a drag queen that is stalled properly a peak number is important, but for a street car that sees the track once in a while ... you never use that peak number.. the avg number or power under the curve is much more important for fuel mileage and performance.
This is where the aftermarket heads shine over the P+P'ed OEM heads. Better flow characteristics with smaller runners to generate airspeed..This is where the AFR 205 used to shine over most of the others but the 215's TFS or AFR are not a bad way to go as well. Look closely at the numbers at low and mid range and then the peak to make your final decision on what would work best with your cam and application and goals.
Not saying that OEM heads are junk either, just saying given the choice I'd take the AFR or TFS.
THANKS GUYS !! AFR & TFS will get my attention !!! Has anybody tried Lingenfellter redone stock heads ???
This is the thing... ( and I'm not picking on you )unless your driving around at peak HP all the time who cares what an engine makes at its peak. What it makes for avg hp through out the rpm range is more important for a street car than what it does at peak.
Yes to a drag queen that is stalled properly a peak number is important, but for a street car that sees the track once in a while ... you never use that peak number.. the avg number or power under the curve is much more important for fuel mileage and performance.
This is where the aftermarket heads shine over the P+P'ed OEM heads. Better flow characteristics with smaller runners to generate airspeed..This is where the AFR 205 used to shine over most of the others but the 215's TFS or AFR are not a bad way to go as well. Look closely at the numbers at low and mid range and then the peak to make your final decision on what would work best with your cam and application and goals.
Not saying that OEM heads are junk either, just saying given the choice I'd take the AFR or TFS.
I certainly understand about the average hp/tq versus peak power. Kind of why my cam sucks overall in the tq department I've also heard the stock heads worked over can deliver greater average hp/tq under the curve than some aftermarket heads. That was a local shop in Florida that did a lot of work on Vette's. That was their opinion of course. It wasn't much cheaper than buying new heads though so not many did it, at least at that shop. It was an option though, so thought I'd ask. Have yet to see any dyno or track comparisons though.
Regardless though, always thought it was about the combination. I guess there isn't much with respect to manifold intakes, heads for the C6 though. My old Mustang made great power as the heads/intake/cam were designed to work well together as a package.
I certainly understand about the average hp/tq versus peak power. Kind of why my cam sucks overall in the tq department I've also heard the stock heads worked over can deliver greater average hp/tq under the curve than some aftermarket heads. That was a local shop in Florida that did a lot of work on Vette's. That was their opinion of course. It wasn't much cheaper than buying new heads though so not many did it, at least at that shop. It was an option though, so thought I'd ask. Have yet to see any dyno or track comparisons though.
I talked to Lingenfellter----they rework your stk heads----$1095----Produces---25--30 RWHP-----Has anybody tried this set up ???
I agree the stock head if re-worked correctly can produce some nice results but I still would go AFR or TFS if I was looking for the best results.
First I would set goals for the car and then a budget or a budget first and then goals to achieve within the budget but a plan is needed first. Then we look at budget and how to meet the goal. LPE does good work as well as TEA and WCCH and a whole host of other guys who have been in business for a long time porting heads.
I agree the stock head if re-worked correctly can produce some nice results but I still would go AFR or TFS if I was looking for the best results.
First I would set goals for the car and then a budget or a budget first and then goals to achieve within the budget but a plan is needed first. Then we look at budget and how to meet the goal. LPE does good work as well as TEA and WCCH and a whole host of other guys who have been in business for a long time porting heads.
BUDGET FIRST------Want the best bang for the $$$---not willing to spend more $$ for a small increase, that probably wouldn't be noticed on a street car ----so lets start over---what's the $$$ amount for what results ?? THANKS !!!
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Originally Posted by musicman2
BUDGET FIRST------Want the best bang for the $$$---not willing to spend more $$ for a small increase, that probably wouldn't be noticed on a street car ----so lets start over---what's the $$$ amount for what results ?? THANKS !!!
Watch the auctions on eBay for a set of CNC heads.
Is the Lingenfelter $1095 price for the pair? Seems cheap.