Sir,

I have a COMP CAMS LS2 CAMSHAFT (220/224, .581/.581, 113 LSA) on my 07 A6 and am very happy with it.

 

Do you know what gains you picked up?

 

Sir, It was around 24.7 hp & 30.8 tq. I had the cam installed at corvettes of houston 281.821.1222 by Victor. He does all of my maint & is a very good tech. Please give him a call.

 

If you're not trapping 130, you're not doing it right. Search cam grinds that are proven with known trap speeds. IMHO

 

 

I think you need to rethink your statement.

130 mph trap speed needs a lot more than just headers, cam, and tune. Note the he has an A6 with stock converter.

If you have an example, post it.

 

I agree with this one and for some good reasons.

Power is generally made with the biggest shot of gas/air and the 224 will do this better than a 220.

The LSA isnt a fixed number. A 224 on a 114 will peak a bit short in the RPM band while a 224 on a 115 will peak right at 6300rpm where a drag car wants it.

When you use a huge split with a narrower LSA and smaller intake duration, you get better low end TQ because the intake valve closes sooner and the bigger split makes more power up in rpm over the lower RPM HP peak. This is irrelevant if you will later change heads and bump compression. If you bump compression you can use more static because the intake valve closes later lowering the dynamic compression. A bumped compression single pattern cam combo will blow away a wide split cam with lower compression and shorter intake duration. Comp cams is using the bigger split theory with smaller intake lobes and average LSA's to take adavantage of stock head car's limited compression. As Charlie said above you need to take into account what you will do with it but by no means think that the TQ differences are anything more than single digits in difference. If you start with an intake duration and LSA that peak high in RPM, you dont need to use exhaust duration to get scaveging to make up the rest of the rpm band. You use compression to bring back the TQ. More intake duration, wider LSA (yes it closes the int valve later) with more compression is more tq in the end anyway. The LS3 heads limited the ability to raise compression unless you fly-cut so it limits the head's ultimate potential to what you get with about a 227 to 230 intake duration on a 114 LSA.

Example: A 227/235 114 (comp cams) peaks at 6100-6150 or so on dyno sym software in a 6 liter. the extended ex duration carries out the power to after the HP peak to 6300. The low end TQ is good because a 227 on a 114+2 or so closes the intake valve sooner. The 230/230 115 peaks at about 6350 and doesnt need the ex duration to extend the power out past the HP peak. The later intake valve close lowers low TQ but a compression bump restores it and the limted overlap and higher compression make the 230 cam drive way better because its 4 degrees less overlap. The 227 cam is great with the LS3 heads because they cant get compression up much past 11.3 or so. It had NOTHING to do with the exhaust flow numbers because WCCH told me that attempts to port only the ex side did nothing for power on the heads. Its higher velocity at 193cfm through an 85cc runner than to hog it out to 99cc for 240cfm. Reversion was the real killer on those heads with any cam that went over 4 degrees overlap. A 230/234 114 made 500rwhp on an LS3 and so did a 235/245 111LSA.....back on topic....sorry

The exhaust side contributes more to overlap than its worth. Overlap kills driveability on automatic cars because youre limited to lower idle speeds. This 224 cam is a -6 on overlap and is awesome.

The 224 lobe gets you the use of the XFI lobes that are pretty spaced out and act like bigger lobes than they are. The next size up for this lobe is a 230.

If you want a bigger cam then get a 227/227 115. It peaks about the same but uses LSL lobes and still only has -3 degrees overlap and drives great.

the 230/230XFI 115+2 works if you have a great tuner.....this is zero deg overlap.

All of these cams will work great with the AFR 230 V2 heads which have been proven to make insane power with single pattern cams. Patrick G used a 231/231 114 on his automatic car with this combo which is a 6 liter and he broke 500rwhp with it on the dyno with the converter locked.

Rick at synergy was the first to show great power on the LS3 heads with the 224/224 115. Single pattern cams work. Its not that big splits dont work, its that they dont drive as well. You just dont need the exhaust duration as demonstrated by many tuners. Most guys who tout big splits havent tried a single pattern. If they did, they wouldnt go back after they see a mere 2 or 3hp difference. By the way, the best cam I came across for the LS3 heads was actually a reverse split 236/230 115. It limited overlap to 3 degrees which the LS3 heads liked and made more power across the board but selling a reverse split in light of how hard selling people on a single pattern is like trying to sell speedos in northern alaska.

 

Once again thanks for all the information, I believe I found the cam I am going to go with let me know what you all think, Comp Cams XTREME RPM HIGH LIFT XR275HR - 222/224 - .566/.568 w 1.7 rocker - 112 LSA... and of course like i said before I will retune my car (hp tuner done professionally). Planning on going to the drag strip after I get all parts in and will let you all know my improvments in time

 

It peaks too early in the power band....about 5800 and will fall on its face after that killing you drag performance..

Its -1 overlap and will not drive as nice as a 227/227 115 which is a -3 overlap cam. It wont make anywhere near the same power. The LSA is way too narrow and thats what is introducing the overlap here.

Its actually a good truck cam.

XR lobes dont take advantage of the lift other cams use. You need a spring swap and it makes sense to use what your springs will handle which is a minimum of .600" and a max of .660".

All the cams I suggested will make 20-30rwhp more and all are had by calling comp cams and asking them to custom grind one for you. I do it all the time as have many forum members. They will also drive better.

 

1st part of my answer is his goal to shoot for-

2nd was my advice is to do any ammount of forum/internet searching, not just listen to the vendors or the threads alone. With all the LSX cam info these days, it can get plenty confusing. A cam choice is the biggest change in the cars attitude and it is an important decision that needs close consideration. I would personally search timeslips and pay close attention to traps to tell the power of the car. Devil's in the details.

FWIW, LS3 M6's can turn 130+ with cam, bolt ons and tune which was my refrence.

 

M6's can run big cams to get there. Try tuning an automatic using a 16 degree overlap cam. Further, the OP has an LS2 A6, not an LS3 M6.

The problem with your advice is that 130 trap speeds rarely come with the driveability that is so important to the stock stall automatic owner as this OP is. Trap speeds dont tell you about how it drives so its too oversimplified to say time slips tell the whole story. They dont.

 

"My advice" is to search cam grinds based on trap speeds from previous owners, threads by owners and vendor advice (all 3). You can easily gauge a successful cam grind for driveability, power and satisfaction based on those three results, though I was not that specific in my original post-

Hopefully he does not install (pay for) a 224/224 and put down 420rwhp and trap 118 and then he ends up wanting more.

My LS2 A6 (H/C on KDW's) ran 11.3x @ 124 (IIRC from the new owner) and it was pretty weak for my tatse. Things to consider (for the OP).

 

I agree 100%.

JayplaySS2 said: "If you're not trapping 130, you're not doing it right."

Well, I guess nobody is doing it right.

Show us a cam, headers, A6 with a stock converter that trapping at 130 mph. And no other power adders such as NO2, S/C, etc.

 

Let me clarify my input for ya since I actually never said "here is a cam only stock verter A6 car trapping 130" .. but reading is fun none the less-

What I did say was "Unless you're turning 130, you're not doing it right".

My A6 car only trapped 124ish and I personally would nearly fall asleep driving it so I sold it to start with an LS3. My LS3 only had 495rwhp and I got bored with it and sold it.

Now follow me here-

If I built another A6 car, it would trap 130+ (to me anything less is weak since 130 is a decent DD street car goal) until the trans went out. If and when I do, then I would be doing it right, even if it took an LS7 swap like someone around here.

That should be pretty clear now

 

Also, since you are tracking the car.

If you consider a mild stall you will really open up your cam choices, big time! You are limiting your cam choices if you're planning on keeping the stock stall.

 

Are you familiar with IMHO?

IMHO = In my humble opinion

How would you or Mez call bs on my opinion?

When a forum member inserts IMHO, it's not a statement up for debate, it's an opinion. Read over post #24 again and see my IMHO.

That means that anything less than 130 is weak, to me. 4 years ago my KB Cobra ran 133 and that was cool back then. 130 these days should be a minimum IMHO

 

By stating "If you're not trapping 130, you're not doing it right" is an insult to 95% of the members here even if you tack IMHO at the end.

It is like this saying I made up many years ago: "Don't take it personal, but you're an a$$hole".

 

No sweat, some people are easier to please in general

 

I plan to do 1/4 mile track maybe monthly. I have ordered a Vararam and AR long tubes for my 2010 Grand Sport A6. I am considering Spin's suggested 224XFI/224XFI 115. I am curious as to what power increase I might expect and how it might drive without doing a stall. If it makes that much difference, I could go with a 3000 stall. It is my daily driver. Any comments or suggestions on that choice?

 

If you are heading to the track, it's all about ET. It doesn't matter how fast you trap at the 1/4, it's the guy who got there first that wins. That means starting with the back half of the car first. A 3200 stall and some decent tires are your first mods. Nothing else will bring your ET down as much. Your stock GS makes as much power as my much heavier Camaro did, but I would have left you in the dust because I had a big stall and good tires.

After you have the stall, then you have all the cam options on the table, because your idle can be raised and torque at 2k is irrelevant to your launch.