The service manual shows the engine removed from the bottom. Anyone here pulled one out the top?

I pretty much have all the accessories removed and ready to go except for two problems.

1. How do you remove the A/C block/lines from the side of the compressor? If you've done this, you know the problem.

2. Can the engine (less intake manifold) fit over the PS cylinder? If not, what of the steering needs removed first? I can pull the pan too, if needed.

 

PM Powerlabs...he's been there twice recently.

 

Sure did... Here we go:

I did not. I removed the compressor from the engine itself. The reasoning is very simple; if you remove the compressor, you have to recharge the A/C. That's a $150 expense. I kept everything hooked up, removed the compressor, and saved the money
How do you remove the compressor? Unbolt it (4 bolts) completely. The two bottom bolts come out the bottom. Jack the engine up untill the two top bolts can come out over the frame rail, then continue jacking the engine up and out of the car.

I believe what you are referring to is the Steering Rack. It has to come off; its not that bad. Refer to A&A's Supercharger install instructions.
Do not remove the oil pan. It is a PITA and won't gain you much clearance since the oil pickup tube is still there.

 

You have an '06 and mine's an '08 with the new steering and a compressor with the side mounted lines. I'm guessing the steering is not a major issue, so I'll do that. Thanks.

However, the side mount won't allow the upper front bolt to be removed until the compressor is above the fender, at which point the hose to the dash is already too short. I've already opened the system during the radiator removal which also seems to have issues different than the ones on LS2 cars. The extra $150 is nothing compared to the $3000+ the stealership wanted to swap engines.

Lifting the engine enough to disconnect the A/C line might work, but hoping there's another way.
The manual makes it look so easy when the frame isn't there.

 

Is the problem its close proximity to the frame rails? On the LS2, anyway, the trick is to unwind the compressor mounting stud that goes into the block. It has flats on the end for this purpose. Then you can lower the compressor and get at the lines... but then, as PowerLabs mentioned, you might as well leave the compressor behind.

 

I just got back from looking at an '06 that appears the same as my '08, so that doesn't seem to be the problem.

I'm obviously missing the trick here. You guys make it sound easy. 45 years of working on cars, machinery, etc. and this has me pulling hair out.

I've already removed the lower 2 bolts from the compressor, the nut on the top rear stud, backed out the stud until it's free, loosened the top front bolt completely, but can't remove that bolt to allow the compressor to move up/down - front/back - or sideways more than 3/4".

I had to bend one of the lines down about a 1/4" to get the bolt head out to the present location. The bolt head is now dead centered with the other line, so it won't go any more. Hmmm!

I'd be willing to bet that the engineers in charge of this design didn't have any hands-on experience with in-car replacement.

I'm currently modifying a 13mm (I hope that's the size) socket to fit in the small space to remove the lines from the compressor. Fingers crossed.


Edit: The severely modded socket worked. Getting it back together may be a new problem.
Tomorrow I'm going to a dealer and ask to see the tool they use, per the manual. Then visit a performance shop to see how they pull a motor without removing the A/C lines.

 

Just loosen the long 13mm bolt and leave it....When the engine is ready to move,then you will have plenty of room to move the compressor.I left my steering rack in place....Dropping the engine cradle 1" inch will do the trick.Dont forget to remove the Intake Manifold.

 

Get a blow torch and just cut that a/c off. With the cool summers in AZ, you don't need it Tom.




lol