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Yep I did put together a how-to a while back. Go back to Post #1 of this thread and that is where it starts.
Actually getting the tank out on a manual transmission car is easy after you've done it a time or two. I'd do them all day long at 50% of what the dealer charges if I had a guaranteed flow of cars. Heck, one a day would keep me happy! I have still not done a car with an automatic trans though.
On geez...what a dumb post I made! My memory is good, just not my ability to know what thread I'm in!
I see 2 dilemmas with the "top" method. One was that there must be some reason people aren't already doing it (aka, not efficient).
The second, which is actually a solution, is that a pump swap is not a big dilemma. It's just time, it's aggravating, and takes experience to get the best mix of all 3.
Help! Please. I printed out this write up today and followed everything very closely... I could not get the passenger side cross-over tube disconnected from the tank. One thing this article doesn't explain is do I have to disconnect the crossover tube from the driver side first and pull it through the passenger? I had everything lose, completely. I was able to see inside the cross-over tube from the passenger side trap door. Those 2 fuel line/tubes stuck together would not come/pry apart that go inside the cross-over tube from the passenger fuel tank. So I'm wondering if someone forgot to mention that you HAVE TO disconnect it from the driver side first or if I'm just not pulling/prying enough? The tubes running down into the passenger fuel tank actually started getting stretched and kinked from me trying to tug it out and the passenger fuel tank dropping to low (I was trying EVERYTHING). I had to put the whole thing back together with nothing accomplished. Car started fine and got me home, so nothing is broken haha But I still have a bad sending unit. At the time I didn't even think to disconnect the cross-over tube from the driver side first, since I was trying to get to the passenger. Thanks guys.
When I pulled out both tanks I found the easiest method was to disconnect the crossover tube from the driver's side first, drop the tank, and then disconnect from the passenger side tank now that you have room to maneuver. I had to move slowly and use a prybar because with the length of the tube it is a very tight fit. To get clearance for the first disconnect, I removed the tube from the bracket in the center and pulled it down while prying the tube out. The inner lines are slip fit so they will come apart. You CAN get the passenger tank in/out without disconnecting the the tube from that side, but IMO it's more trouble than it's worth and you risk damaging the delicate fuel lines.
I actually had to do this a couple times, one because the replacement sensor was bad, and the second time I didn't get a good connection on the fuel lines so all the fuel pump did was pump gas over to the passenger tank. By the end I could drop and reinstall the passenger tank in about 30 minutes.
My old roommate didn't know what he was getting into when he changed a coworkers fuel pump in an A6 car.....he got it done , and only charged the guy $500.
Every time I mentioned the word "corvette", his eye would start twitching....told me not to stop by in my car for at least 2 weeks...
But...it can be done on an automatic without dropping the tranny
And weeks later my car is finally running. Thanks to the above. My lines were stuck together pretty good. On top of that when I pulled out the crossover tube from the passenger tank it broke the clips that hold the fuel lines in the passenger tank. So I had to order a new fuel line. Also it took me about 7 tries to get the fuel line connectors to line up properly and connect. I had to try and start my car to test it everytime. And finally he roared. The fuel line connector that sits in the crossover tube would slide out of place as I maneuver the cross over tube into the tank. No lie, this job was harder than doing an engine swap on my brothers Z. Haha
Question........why do you need to switch on the ignition switch to get the fuel pump to energize if you are already supplying 12v directly to the FP via the jumper from E6 to G7 ?
"- To get the fuel pump to run continuously without the car running you will have to jumper across two terminals of the fuel pump relay under the hood in the fuse box. Once you've done this you simply turn the ignition to the start position (don't crank the motor over) and let the fuel pump run the driver's side tank dry for you. The pump relay is #55 in the fuse box.
Jumper from here
to diagonally across to the terminal here to get the pump to run continuously
Because the 12 volts is a "switched voltage", i.e. it's not present until you press the ignition switch. If voltage was available all the time your battery wouldn't last very long after you turn the car off.
Because the 12 volts is a "switched voltage", i.e. it's not present until you press the ignition switch. If voltage was available all the time your battery wouldn't last very long after you turn the car off.
BJK
Hhhhmmm......checking with a test light on my car, E6 is hot at all times and is not switched (it comes directly from the power distribution block). The relay doesn't energize and close the contact until the ignition is on, so there wouldn't be any battery drain...or am I wrong ?
As far as the jumper goes. I had some bare jumper wire, 24 gauge I believe, and just wrapped it around the relay contacts/legs at the base and then plugged the relay back in.
BJK
Last edited by 07MontRedcp; Sep 18, 2013 at 02:09 PM.
Good God Almighty!!!! This is the worst automotive experience ever!!!!! I am trying to remove the drivers side tank right now. Well I am done for the night. I am working on a 2008 A6.
I managed to get the crossover lose but the inner tubes are still stuck. I am a big guy and let me tell you, there is almost 0 room.The exhaust is blocking the way. Finally my arm got so sore I decided to quit and start fresh in the morning. I don't know if I should keep going or put it back together. I keep trying to pull the tube lose but my arm is so wedged I just lose power after a while. I got my son pushing the tail pipe over but he is wearing out as well.
Good God Almighty!!!! This is the worst automotive experience ever!!!!! I am trying to remove the drivers side tank right now. Well I am done for the night. I am working on a 2008 A6.
I managed to get the crossover lose but the inner tubes are still stuck. I am a big guy and let me tell you, there is almost 0 room.The exhaust is blocking the way. Finally my arm got so sore I decided to quit and start fresh in the morning. I don't know if I should keep going or put it back together. I keep trying to pull the tube lose but my arm is so wedged I just lose power after a while. I got my son pushing the tail pipe over but he is wearing out as well.
Thank you sir for the fast response!
$60 for that stupid thing, anyone doing this keep in mind that sucker breaks real easy and costs $70 shipped and puts a halt to your work.
The was a fantastic wrirteup. Good Job!
The only words of advice to those attempting this at home (on in a shop)
is that there are a few tricky steps which require some finesse and occasional foul language shouted pretty loud.
After that.... You're good. Go easy as "little plastic pieces" bust easy and they are SHARP as well.
Take your time and move slowly. It's very rewarding when it's done and it works.....
Buy kinda sucks when it's together full of gas..... and it's wrong.
So here is my take. On the A6 C6, do yourself a favor and just go ahead and take the muffler loose on the side you are working on!!! DO IT NOW!!! You will gain tons of working room and the time it takes to remove and reconnect it doesn't compare to the time you will lose by not doing so. Unless you are long and pretty skinny. I had someone try to help reconnect it that fits this description and he still could not reconnect the crossover tube!!
Once I removed the muffler it took me all of 10 minutes to reconnect the crossover tube and start putting things back together.