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A lot of posters have expressed a desire for some sort of access door to the tank hardware, but there isn't one. And this isn't one, either.
After spending time and effort Sawzalling right through the chassis and rear tub merely to disconnect the crossover, he still has to drop the tanks to pull the pumps and senders. But now the car is that much weaker, and that much more susceptible to rattles, leaks and corrosion.
Cutting up the car is a non-solution. And if it was honestly disclosed to the next buyer, the car's resale value would be diminished by more than it would have cost to pay somebody to perform the work properly. I am concerned that Cormudd has implied he won't be disclosing it:
Originally Posted by cormudd
I got the car for a great price other wise I would not own it. when all is done nobody will ever know I cut out access to the crossover tube...And I will be selling this junk soon. The car is very fun to drive butt tough to maintain... At least I saved myself $2,000 in labor...
I don't want to pick on the guy, but this is a hack job by a frustrated owner and should be regarded as a cautionary tale, not taken as repair advice.
A lot of posters have expressed a desire for some sort of access door to the tank hardware, but there isn't one. And this isn't one, either.
After spending time and effort Sawzalling right through the chassis and rear tub merely to disconnect the crossover, he still has to drop the tanks to pull the pumps and senders. But now the car is that much weaker, and that much more susceptible to rattles, leaks and corrosion.
Cutting up the car is a non-solution. And if it was honestly disclosed to the next buyer, the car's resale value would be diminished by more than it would have cost to pay somebody to perform the work properly. I am concerned that Cormudd has implied he won't be disclosing it:
I don't want to pick on the guy, but this is a hack job by a frustrated owner and should be regarded as a cautionary tale, not taken as repair advice.
Takes less than an hour to drop a tank on a MN6 car.
Assuming no problems, yes..
On mine the small connections inside the metal tube broke off from the tank side so the whole thing was pulling out when I pulled the metal tube away from the tank.. but I couldn't get it far enough out to get get anything in there to pry the inner lines apart
So, yeah, that took a while longer to get figured out.
On mine the small connections inside the metal tube broke off from the tank side so the whole thing was pulling out when I pulled the metal tube away from the tank.. but I couldn't get it far enough out to get get anything in there to pry the inner lines apart
So, yeah, that took a while longer to get figured out.
A read a post a while back from a shop that says they keep a spare crossover tube and in-tank lines on the shelf. They don't waste time trying to finesse one apart. Either it comes apart easy or the car's owner gets a few parts added to his repair bill.
Out of curiosity I checked the prices. From GMPartsDirect the crossover is $113 and the in-tank lines are about $55-ish each.
Last edited by Motorhead-47; Feb 18, 2015 at 09:45 PM.
A read a post a while back from a shop that says they keep a spare crossover tube and in-tank lines on the shelf. They don't waste time trying to finesse one apart. Either it comes apart easy or the car's owner gets a few parts added to his repair bill.
Out of curiosity I checked the prices. From GMPartsDirect the crossover is $113 and the in-tank lines are about $55-ish each.
I don't blame them. The extra time wasted isn't worth it for a shop for sure.. an hour or two of shop time wasted and you might as well just get the new parts
One of the clips was broken on the tubing that goes inside the tank on mine.. so I did end up replacing that. Hopefully it comes apart easier next time, if there is a next time
Funny. You guys all have your own values. And I respect that. I am not concerned in resale value. With all the problems I have with this car, The last thing I am worried about is affecting the structual intregity of this car by cutting out a section that really has no bearing on the said. That whould be like saying if I drill a hole in a 6x6 beam it will crack the next day. It all depends on HOW,WHAT,WHEN,WHERE,WHO,and WHY..... I have raced the Baja 500 and 1,000. I respect all of your opinions, but come on. Cuttting out a small section from an area that does not really take much of an impact, and the reinforing it stronger than it was before... maybe putting a full roll cage in will make you all happy
I dont plan on junking this car. I plan on driving and maitaining it. A little more support whould be welcome. Like where I can get new o rings for the crossover tube and the gas lines inside of it. That whould really help me a lot...
Funny. You guys all have your own values. And I respect that. I am not concerned in resale value. With all the problems I have with this car, The last thing I am worried about is affecting the structual intregity of this car by cutting out a section that really has no bearing on the said. That whould be like saying if I drill a hole in a 6x6 beam it will crack the next day. It all depends on HOW,WHAT,WHEN,WHERE,WHO,and WHY..... I have raced the Baja 500 and 1,000. I respect all of your opinions, but come on. Cuttting out a small section from an area that does not really take much of an impact, and the reinforing it stronger than it was before... maybe putting a full roll cage in will make you all happy
It's not tough enough to get to to justify cutting chunks out of your car (for most people). Yes, it's a pain, no doubt about that
If it were a small square you could cut out I think more people would be open to it.. but you did a lot of cutting
Regardless, it's your car and you can do whatever you want to it
Had to replace main pump with a high capacity pump to support an e-force charger. I installed the SC myself (with he help of a strong grandson to lift the damn thing on to the engine!) in about a week (Maybe 10 days....lost track) but when it came to the fuel pump I surrendered. Doing this job without a lift was just not my idea of having fun!! My shop ego had to be put in a box while I took the car to a local shop that specializes in Corvettes. They replaced the pump in two days....perfectly.....and charged me $365. Now I know we all want to save money with DIY but the grief I avoided by having it done by guys that had done hundreds of them was worth every cent. I must say Motorheads post almost had me doing it but I had no way to support the car up 24+ inches...absolutely great write up!!!!!!!!
And as far as what Cormudd did.............don't mean to be critical but ya just don't do that.
Last edited by phylrick; Feb 19, 2015 at 11:20 AM.
Had to replace main pump with a high capacity pump to support an e-force charger. I installed the SC myself (with he help of a strong grandson to lift the damn thing on to the engine!) in about a week (Maybe 10 days....lost track) but when it came to the fuel pump I surrendered. Doing this job without a lift was just not my idea of having fun!! My shop ego had to be put in a box while I took the car to a local shop that specializes in Corvettes. They replaced the pump in two days....perfectly.....and charged me $365. Now I know we all want to save money with DIY but the grief I avoided by having it done by guys that had done hundreds of them was worth every cent.
And as far as what Cormudd did.............don't mean to be critical but ya just don't do that.
I would have GLADLY paid $365 for that job if I had a shop around here that I trusted to do it. I literally have scars on my arms from doing it. In hindsight a lot of the frustration was caused by a broken part inside the crossover tube thing, but still.. it was easily the least enjoyable thing I've ever done on this car
I agree with what your saying schpenxel .. If I had examples to go by I could have made cleaner cuts yes. But I am the first one to try this and I was more worried about cutting a wire or something structural. I believe that the channel must be restregthend once I am done, and the tub must be resealed. I promise you I will clean it all up nicely.. On my model of Corvette, It is impossable to disconnect the crossover tubes without dropping the Drive line / Tranny. Or as I did, make it work.... Perhaps the next persons will be able to make a cleaner job of it, but remember reconnecting the crossover tubes is not easy with the tanks in place...
On what model is it impossible to do? What model do you have? I did it with an M6, and others have done it on an auto. GM probably says it can't be done.. but they are wrong. Maybe there's a particular combo where it's not possible, though?
You tell me what part of the frame that you would safely cut to get the pump out??????
This is a C6 ZO6 frame but,,, its NO different than a steel C5 Frame. As you can see,, the metal channel that runs across the car blocks the top of the pump assembly let alone all the SMC body structure that you would have to destroy.
Theres NO WAY,,, your going to be able to TILT that pump body to get it out from under that beam.. Its tough enough to get it out when the tank is all the way out.
Bill Curlee that is a great picture on the z06, I hadn't seen the weight differences in a table like that. Thanks for posting.
I do question only 6 lbs difference in wheel weight, I suspect it is 6 lbs PER WHEEL having swapped from base c6 to c6z rubber on my car (well 20mm wider all around). It's a drastic difference.
1. How many plastic o-rings are there in the fuel line connector inside the crossover tube (the one with two lines parallel to each other, one on top of the other)? The picture on page 1 has an o-ring inside the top line, but not in the bottom line. The picture on page 3 seems to have one in each. I only have an o-ring in the top line and I'm wondering if the other one fell out somewhere.
(P.S. Nevermind - I think I found it.)
2. While coaxing the bottom half of the fuel pump out of the tank, the plastic barb on outside of the pump near the bottom (the one connecting to the venturi line) snapped off. I was not planning to replace the pump (I only got this far because I was trying to get to the fuel level sender) but now it looks like I have to? It's just a piece of plastic, but I don't see anyone selling just bottom buckets, all listings are either for complete pumps or for pumps minus the bucket. Or is it a good idea to replace the pump anyway, as preemptive maintenance? Mine is almost 10 years old by this point.
3. Also, is it possible to find just the electrical cable that runs from the top of the pump to the connector in the wheel well? My sender unit looks OK, but the cable has visible damage, as if someone chewed on it. I guess that could have been causing the same codes. (I was getting P0461 and P0463.) Parts diagrams don't make much sense. There is something called "wire harness", but it seems to be the cable that goes from one tank to the other, NOT the one I need. And the one I need is included with the pump itself in most pictures.
Looks like my options are either to buy a used pump and to transfer the components, or just to buy a whole thing.
Last edited by hamster37; Sep 23, 2015 at 01:55 AM.
Can someone help me out and tell me if a Z06 fuel pump will be plug and play for my 2007 LS2 and how much RWHP will it support? I am willing to just add a BAP to my current pump but after reading this thread I might as well try changing the pump in preparation for FI.
Can someone help me out and tell me if a Z06 fuel pump will be plug and play for my 2007 LS2 and how much RWHP will it support? I am willing to just add a BAP to my current pump but after reading this thread I might as well trying changing the pump in preparation for FI.
Getting the pump out can be a royal pain in the ***.. mine had swelled up enough that it wouldn't fit through the opening in the tank.. I ended up having to break it into pieces to get it out
On 2005's the fuel level sensors work backwards in terms of resistance vs. fuel tank level, so I had to change some things tune wise to make it work. I think on a 2007 you'll be fine, but it is simple enough to compare the resistance of the new/old fuel level senders when you have everything apart.
A few notes / observations (I only did the first half, still waiting for replacement parts to arrive. I'm sure it will be more "fun" to put this all together, the disassembly is usually the easy part.)
* It's easier than I thought.
* As the OP states, you need a big *** jack to lift the car high enough to get the tank out. At the same time it needs to be small enough to fit under the car in the first place. I got the job done with a HF "3 ton steel low profile" jack ($98, minimum height 2 7/8", maximum height 19 1/2") and a pair of 6 ton HF jack stands.
* I guess it would be obvious to anyone who did any work on fuel systems before, but if you didn't - you need to buy a fuel line disconnect tool. They are about $10 in any auto parts store and you need size 3/8".
* The problem with draining the fuel as described is that it's hard to avoid spillage. Unless you have tubing that perfectly fits the end of the fuel line, some gasoline will end up trickling through the gap between the fuel line and your tubing. I had to pump something like 10 gallons, and my garage stank of gasoline for two days afterwards.
* Most bolts holding the aluminum plates are straightforward to remove with a 1/2" socket. However, two bolts are so deep that they will require a socket extension, and one can't even be accessed with a socket (the transmission is in the way) so you need a wrench.
* Disconnecting the crossover tube takes 5-10 minutes of pushing, pulling and twisting, while lying on the floor and with one arm stuck all the way into the innards of the car. Not the most comfortable position, and you can only reach in with one arm at a time. It helps to have a small worklight that you can stick in there.
* Disconnecting the vent line above the crossover tube is possibly even harder (physically) than disconnecting the crossover tube itself, because you basically have to do it with two fingers.
* Yes, the pump seems to expand after a few years in the tank. Mine broke in two (the bottom bucket detached itself and stayed inside while the top part came out). It's tricky to get the bucket out if that happens. I ended up tying a piece of paracord to each of its "ears" (there are 3 ears at 120 degree angles from each other) and managed to pull it out by twisting it back and forth while keeping cords taut. In the end the bucket came out but a plastic protrusion on one side near the bottom broke off, so I had to toss it.
Takes less than an hour to drop a tank on a MN6 car.
......don't mean to be critical but ya just don't do that.
