How to replace a fuel pump
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Good afternoon,
I got my drivers side tank out last night - and snapped the fuel return lines inside the tank.
I already have the replacement parts coming from Amazon.
I had a question on the plastic sleeve gasket.
The smaller one is still in the cross over tube - and is on top.
The larger one one bottom is loose - and looks like it might have a rubber o-ring grove formed into it.
I looked around and did not see any random loose o-rings on the floor, in the tank, or on the car.
Did I lose an O-ring on that sleeve?
I got my drivers side tank out last night - and snapped the fuel return lines inside the tank.
I already have the replacement parts coming from Amazon.
I had a question on the plastic sleeve gasket.
The smaller one is still in the cross over tube - and is on top.
The larger one one bottom is loose - and looks like it might have a rubber o-ring grove formed into it.
I looked around and did not see any random loose o-rings on the floor, in the tank, or on the car.
Did I lose an O-ring on that sleeve?
If you try to plug the coupling you pictured into the tubes inside the crossover pipe, you'll notice that the one without an o-ring is loose.
The part you ordered on Amazon should come with new o-rings (they aren't included with the crossover pipe and they aren't sold separately, so they have to come with the fuel return line.)
BTW, take a small mirror and inspect the open end of the crossover pipe. If your plastics are starting to snap, you might already have damage to the male side of the plug and to the plastic insert around the mouth of the pipe.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 52
From: Charlotte NC
Good afternoon,
I got the old fuel pump out and noticed my Fuel Level sensor was gong bad - so I ordered a new one.
I was expecting some instructions with the new one - but got nothing.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the 2 green lines that go into the harness that plugs into the fuel pump?
I already depinned the OEM Fuel Level sensor - and should have taken pics - but I didn't.
I want to make sure they end up in the correct slots in the plastic fitting.
Thanks.
I got the old fuel pump out and noticed my Fuel Level sensor was gong bad - so I ordered a new one.
I was expecting some instructions with the new one - but got nothing.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the 2 green lines that go into the harness that plugs into the fuel pump?
I already depinned the OEM Fuel Level sensor - and should have taken pics - but I didn't.
I want to make sure they end up in the correct slots in the plastic fitting.
Thanks.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 62
Likes: 2
You tell me what part of the frame that you would safely cut to get the pump out??????
This is a C6 ZO6 frame but,,, its NO different than a steel C5 Frame. As you can see,, the metal channel that runs across the car blocks the top of the pump assembly let alone all the SMC body structure that you would have to destroy.
Theres NO WAY,,, your going to be able to TILT that pump body to get it out from under that beam.. Its tough enough to get it out when the tank is all the way out.
BC
This is a C6 ZO6 frame but,,, its NO different than a steel C5 Frame. As you can see,, the metal channel that runs across the car blocks the top of the pump assembly let alone all the SMC body structure that you would have to destroy.
Theres NO WAY,,, your going to be able to TILT that pump body to get it out from under that beam.. Its tough enough to get it out when the tank is all the way out.
BC
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 62
Likes: 2
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Hard part of this job is disconnecting and reconnecting the crossover tube. After a couple of hours of frustration of trying to do a blind job from below, I simply cut a hole from above. Suddenly the job was super easy. disconnecting and reconnecting the crossover tube was a snap and took about 10 minutes each. Resealing the hole was also easy since I had simply bent auto body parts back for access and to reseal I bent back and sealed it with appropriate tape. I have pictures if anyone is interested in this technique. I never had to drop the exhaust or drop the differential and wheels. total job took about three hours.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 30
From: Mentor Ohio
Hard part of this job is disconnecting and reconnecting the crossover tube. After a couple of hours of frustration of trying to do a blind job from below, I simply cut a hole from above. Suddenly the job was super easy. disconnecting and reconnecting the crossover tube was a snap and took about 10 minutes each. Resealing the hole was also easy since I had simply bent auto body parts back for access and to reseal I bent back and sealed it with appropriate tape. I have pictures if anyone is interested in this technique. I never had to drop the exhaust or drop the differential and wheels. total job took about three hours.
Post up your pics.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
It looks like the Delphi FG1092 left tank fuel pump for 2007-13 Corvettes is finally back in stock again at some parts houses. This had been out of stock everywhere for quite some time.
I'm wondering if this is the brand Chevy dealers are using and if it's the one that should be an improved version that wont crack at the top connection.
My '08 has a gas smell and I'm reluctant to take it to a dealer to get fixed. Even though they may cover the expense, I'm worried that they will break the tank or just mess it up somehow.
With the fine write-up and photos at the beginning of this thread, I have no qualms about doing the job myself. However, I do want to make sure I'm using the best made part available.
I'm wondering if this is the brand Chevy dealers are using and if it's the one that should be an improved version that wont crack at the top connection.
My '08 has a gas smell and I'm reluctant to take it to a dealer to get fixed. Even though they may cover the expense, I'm worried that they will break the tank or just mess it up somehow.
With the fine write-up and photos at the beginning of this thread, I have no qualms about doing the job myself. However, I do want to make sure I'm using the best made part available.
Last edited by roger55; Jan 18, 2017 at 10:51 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
I bought my replacement on Amazon:
Last edited by roger55; Feb 15, 2017 at 09:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
So as I said earlier in this thread, I decided to do this job myself rather than to trust a dealer to do it. Even though it cost me $215 to buy the Delphi fuel pump module. My 2008 has a manual transmission.
My job is finished. My special thanks to Motorhead-47 for photo documenting the job in this thread. It was a tremendous help.
I did have a couple of complications. First, I had to break the auxiliary fuel feed/return pipe tubes because the connection was stuck badly at the end of the large metal crossover tube. I had to pry on it to get it to come off and even that wasn't easy as it was stuck so bad. So it cost me an extra $69 to replace that auxiliary tube assembly. So total cost came to $284.
I had another issue too. After reinstalling the tank and trying it out, it ran fine but my gas gauge didn't work. It also got a "service fuel system" warning.
I traced it down to an open reading across the wires to the sending unit. I pulled the tank again and then pulled the fuel pump module. Evidently, I got the float hung up on one of the auxiliary tubes.
I very carefully reinstalled the module and made sure I didn't have any hang up this time.
It's all back together now and works perfectly. Sure is going to be nice not to have the stink of old gas in the garage anymore.
My job is finished. My special thanks to Motorhead-47 for photo documenting the job in this thread. It was a tremendous help.
I did have a couple of complications. First, I had to break the auxiliary fuel feed/return pipe tubes because the connection was stuck badly at the end of the large metal crossover tube. I had to pry on it to get it to come off and even that wasn't easy as it was stuck so bad. So it cost me an extra $69 to replace that auxiliary tube assembly. So total cost came to $284.
I had another issue too. After reinstalling the tank and trying it out, it ran fine but my gas gauge didn't work. It also got a "service fuel system" warning.
I traced it down to an open reading across the wires to the sending unit. I pulled the tank again and then pulled the fuel pump module. Evidently, I got the float hung up on one of the auxiliary tubes.
I very carefully reinstalled the module and made sure I didn't have any hang up this time.
It's all back together now and works perfectly. Sure is going to be nice not to have the stink of old gas in the garage anymore.