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Codes.. codes...and more voltage issue codes...

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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Default Codes.. codes...and more voltage issue codes...

So a month ago I was driving my c6 around and got three codes..

service fuel system
service abs
service traction control

I pulled over and turned it off and the car then wouldn't start back up after multiple tries... Eventually did fire up I had a CEL and made it to the dealer... He said one of the harnesses was being crushed by the battery, fixed it, and everything was good to go...

4 weeks later same isses... This time the car takes 2 days to start... once it finally does I limp mode it to the dealer with the codes showing up and the CEL.

After 4 days he comes back to say the GM tech "THINKS" my mild 2 wild switch was causing all of the codes and voltage problems. So he pulled it reset everything and I went to pick it up (and since the GM tech who was testing it blamed this they were going to charge me for warrenty labor since its an aftermarket part)...whatever I just wanted my car back...

2 miles down the road after picking it up tonight I get the service abs and traction control codes AGAIN and head right back to the dealer just dropping it off... I will now be waiting to hear what the real problem is b/c clearly the mild 2 wild switch was not the issue...

Has anyone else had any head aches like this?? Its obviously an electrical issue that they still have yet to solve... Its just an annoyance at this point since the dealer is not very close by and this will be the third time I will need to trek back over IF they figure out the problem...

Love the car but had to vent!!
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:23 AM
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Those messages are caused by codes but aren't codes themselves. If you have access to a scan tool that can read the Powertrain AND the ABS codes you can read the codes and post them and get a more informed response. Just saying you got the message is like saying it rained somewhere in the world last night.

Bill
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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I agree. Pull your codes and post them so we can try to assist you better.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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Purchase your own scanner. Make SURE that you find one that will read ALl the DTC (BODY and ABS DTC's) ACTRON makes a couple of really good scanners. I found mine on AMAZON.com for a really great price compared to other local places (autozone/advance auto)

When the issues happens, SCAN the car. List all the DTCs tha appear. Mine did this once when wer on the way to Bowling Green KY from CT.

My scanned showed the Accelerator Position Sensor open high voltage. All I did was make sure that the connector was fully seated on the sensor (it wasnt) and once I reseated it, we were back on the road. Never had that issue again.

The DTCs will help pin point your issue.

Always make sure that your battery terminals are properly connected and correctly tightened. Theres a smalll nut with a CONE shaped taper on the bottom of the nut. That tapered cone levers the clamp tight on the post.



BC
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 07:34 PM
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Bill, does your scanner show the BCM codes and other C-6 modules or just the PCM?
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 07:59 PM
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Just PCM. It does NOT show my EBTCM or BCM DTC which I have issues with.. ACTRON does however sell one that does but, it will be a bit moe expensive.

It does have a really cool real time sensor and O2 sensor monitoring feature that works very well.

BC
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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Update on this... dealer replaced the ECM and BCM... I picked up the car drove it for two days and all the same issues came back...

Engine wouldnt start... Interior would light up and check engine light would turn on with the same messages... service a/h, service anti lock brakes, service traction system...


Car finally started up when the tow truck arrived but I had them tow it anyway...

So now this is the 4th trip back to the dealer with the same issues... I have driven the car 2 days over the past 25 days b/c of this...

I am almost ready to bag this thing as soon as they "fix" it again..
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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What's the Voltage on the alternator?
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:08 AM
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+ check all grounds and verify they have tested the battery?
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by StKnoWhere
+ check all grounds and verify they have tested the battery?
I hope they've conclusively ruled out the battery because your symptoms are typical of a bad one. What's the voltage while cranking?

A C6 with a dying battery will fire right up and then quit on you while you're driving down the highway, and throw a million spurious codes.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:05 AM
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Cars in the shop right now but the battery has been ruled out... It tested out fine...

I just can't believe after replacing two modules completely the problem still exists... I am waiting to hear back from the dealer...


I get worried reading the horror stories some of had with problems like this where it becomes years of an ongoing problem with it happening randomly over months at a time... And I especially don't like hearing people who have had the "service a/h" message like I have recieved and have had the car pull on them while driving on the highway.... That is scary stuff...

I love this car but don't know if I can deal with those headaches...
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by albel1214
Cars in the shop right now but the battery has been ruled out... It tested out fine...

I just can't believe after replacing two modules completely the problem still exists... I am waiting to hear back from the dealer...


I get worried reading the horror stories some of had with problems like this where it becomes years of an ongoing problem with it happening randomly over months at a time... And I especially don't like hearing people who have had the "service a/h" message like I have recieved and have had the car pull on them while driving on the highway.... That is scary stuff...

I love this car but don't know if I can deal with those headaches...
Even if a battery "test's out" fine, it could still be the battery. I was having the same issues and everyone told me the battery was fine, however, I went on a limb and purchased a new Optima (doesn't have to be top of the line but whatever) and low and behold all my car freakouts where solved. No more random CEL's, no service ???? messages, and no more rough idles.

Not saying that this will completely fix it, but not everything is as it seems.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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If you already flashed the BCM & ECM, and you are sure your battery is good, then:
check the alternator!
check your battery cables!
check the grounds wires!
check if you connected any wires to the BCM Fuses (wideband wires, aftermarket radio,etc)
(disconnect all these if any!)
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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Sounds like another case of a dealer throwing parts at it, hoping something will fix it. They should probably look at the battery cable at the starter solenoid and the battery negative cable bolted to the block right next to the starter.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrant3830
Sounds like another case of a dealer throwing parts at it, hoping something will fix it. They should probably look at the battery cable at the starter solenoid and the battery negative cable bolted to the block right next to the starter.
Thats what we call "swap-tronics". Just keep throwing boxes at it, eventually you'll hit on one that fixes it. And don't forget to attempt to blame it on the owner if there is any evidence that he used a non approved wax on the car.

It's too bad that techs don't have the time and/or skills to do old fashioned troubleshooting anymore.

Last edited by CSixDude; Jan 20, 2011 at 09:42 AM.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by torquetube
I hope they've conclusively ruled out the battery because your symptoms are typical of a bad one. What's the voltage while cranking?

A C6 with a dying battery will fire right up and then quit on you while you're driving down the highway, and throw a million spurious codes.
2005 manual z-51.Not to revive an old thread but this happened to me the past 2 months and today again for the 5-plus times. 5 month old optima battery and a aftermarket radio hooked up to the fuse and its been removed for the last month to see if the multiple unrelated codes still comes on. For me it seems like after half an hour of driving, it comes on. And when shutting it off, sometimes it doesent start. same symptoms, gauge sweep, radio, hud, air blows, a click, but no crank. To limp home, I disconnect and reconnect the battery to start it up, up to ten times.To the dealership again tomorrow, last time they blamed it on my radio being wired wrong.
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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Default service traction control

I'm a bit of a newbee to Corvettes and fault code reading and I could use some help.
A while ago while trundling along returning from a Sunday drive around bonnie Scotland in my low milage (10K, dry use only) 2006 C6 I had a sudden flashing of the instrument panel, needles round and then back and loss of power with the message "service traction control" on the DIC.
Initially I thought the car was going to conk out completely. Pulled up to make sure it was nothing serious or trail of transmission oil (auto box) but all ok - no obvious cause.
Car went into limp home mode, reduced power and set in 3rd gear only (I think). Managed to make it home and started a bit of head scratching.
I have read a few of the threads and see most of these problems are battery and earth strap related. I have had the flat battery problem and once it went so flat the door locks did not even work.
Pulled out the battery, charged it and tested ok with discharge meter. (I know every one says replace it (only 1 yr old) but if it is making the voltage, holds its charge and starts the car, what else does it need to do?). I then set about all the leads and the earth straps onto the front chassis rails and made sure these are all clean. Have not got to the main earth onto the engine or the positive to the starter yet as no ramp but all clean so far and reassembled with silicon grease.

A friend lent me a code reader for OBDII. It is a Sealy VS8702. Not sure if this will read the chassis and body codes but when plugged in it finds 2 codes both U0101, "lost communication with TCM". Does this mean the plug has fallen out of the Transmission Control Module (joke) or is it just not the right code reader for the job? Main - only, UK dealer is 600 miles away in Manchester. Quite keen to learn a bit more as I like the car but see they are a bit prone to odd wiring and computer faults. Dealer says it is most likely the loom near the steering column and it is due a recall to check this but I have my doubts. From what I read in this column there are a lot of similar problems caused by earth faults and bad connections.

I did have the front pulley come loose and frayed then derailed the belt which whipped the wiring near the air flow meter/throttle body but it appears intact and insulated. (i have read all the lower pulley/balancer threads and think I have been lucky and pulled it back into place but still need to replace the bolt - keeping an eye on it).

Do I need a better code reader or any other suggestions?
Any help greatly appreciated.

Al
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:09 PM
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I looked up your code reader and it should be able to read the codes on the Vette. It is CAN compatible and accesses the ECM codes but I think that is all you should need to do. The plug in the loom near the steering column can cause some ABS system related issues but I doubt it is causing this one. The ECM plays a role in traction control and if there is a problem with the engine controls where it may not be able to reduce torque on demand from the EBCM (electronic brake control module) it will set a code that tells the EBCM it can't do the job assigned to it. The EBCM then sets another code and displays the Service Traction Control message.

Since you say you may have a wiring problem in the front of the engine I think you should check to see if the engine sensors there are working properly. U0101 as you say indicates communication with the transmission module was lost. In most cases the U codes just show up and don't really mean anything but every once in a while they do.

If there is some vibration due to the crankshaft pulley not being right the engine sensors could be detecting it as a misfire which would disable TC.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Dearborn; Apr 20, 2011 at 06:46 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:10 AM
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Bad connection at the starter solenoid will cause the issues you are having.

Edit: nevermind, I now see this thread was resurected from the dead.

Last edited by DSOMC6; Apr 21, 2011 at 12:16 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 03:51 AM
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Bill,
Thanks for your quick reply. I think maybe that the reader is not looking at all the modules that it can read error codes from as it should also have picked up a minor error which is an earlier fault I had forgotten about which is shown on the DIC as "service tyre preesure sensors". The more I read maybe these 2 are interlinked. Surprised if it is a compatible code reader that it did not pick up more error codes. There is also a chance that I may have been resting my knuckle on the traction control button at the time of the fault first showing up (long story). I note someone else had a problem with the button contactors. The steering column has not been moved (telescoped) hence my reluctance to think of the column loom or connector but it may be worth a look. I will follow your suggestions re the front end wiring and try get some error codes from another reader. Do not think it is vibration as pulley and crank seemed ok. Pulley only moved out 3/8" and pulled back into place ok. Can I email you direct or just post here?

Regards
Al
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