Brake Fluid Flush
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 787
Likes: 127
From: Connecticut
Brake Fluid Flush
I have a 2006 Coupe with only 4300 miles. I've tracked the car now a few times at local HPDE events and decided to flush the brake fluid. I did my research and quite honestly haven't bled brakes since the 80's. I bought a cheap vacuum bleeder and 2 12 oz cans of over priced 580 degree racing DOT4 (non synthetic) fluid (brand Cartel).
I took about 12 oz out of the reservoir (turkey baster) and then started sucking 1st at the drivers caliper. I figure i got about 10 oz out the the lines, nearly using another 12 oz can. Does that sound right? I know I didn't get a small amount in the ABS (needs a Tech2). You guys that do this regularly, do you look to pull a certain amount of fluid at each wheel?
Part of me thinks it would have been easier to have my wife press the pedal a few times like we did it in the old days .. then again I would have to hear her complain.
Other words of wisdom? I'd like to do this more often possibly after events or at least once a year. Thanks!
p.s. - also did the clutch fluid, using the turkey baster, but I opted for using GM Super DOT4 fluid ($10).
I took about 12 oz out of the reservoir (turkey baster) and then started sucking 1st at the drivers caliper. I figure i got about 10 oz out the the lines, nearly using another 12 oz can. Does that sound right? I know I didn't get a small amount in the ABS (needs a Tech2). You guys that do this regularly, do you look to pull a certain amount of fluid at each wheel?
Part of me thinks it would have been easier to have my wife press the pedal a few times like we did it in the old days .. then again I would have to hear her complain.
Other words of wisdom? I'd like to do this more often possibly after events or at least once a year. Thanks!
p.s. - also did the clutch fluid, using the turkey baster, but I opted for using GM Super DOT4 fluid ($10).
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
24 oz may be enough, I use 32 oz for the entire car..
I think the sequence is left rear, right front, right rear, left front.
Since the rear lines are longer, those should take more fluid.
Most of the crude and heat damage collects at the caliper, bleed until the color is clear/clean and you will be OK. Alternate with Super Blue and you know for sure the entire line is fresh.
Vacuum bleeding "sucks", suggesting going to a Motive pressure bleeder since you track your car. Gravity bleed works also if you have the time.
I think the sequence is left rear, right front, right rear, left front.
Since the rear lines are longer, those should take more fluid.
Most of the crude and heat damage collects at the caliper, bleed until the color is clear/clean and you will be OK. Alternate with Super Blue and you know for sure the entire line is fresh.
Vacuum bleeding "sucks", suggesting going to a Motive pressure bleeder since you track your car. Gravity bleed works also if you have the time.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
Likes: 9,817
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
24 oz may be enough, I use 32 oz for the entire car..
I think the sequence is left rear, right front, right rear, left front.
Since the rear lines are longer, those should take more fluid.
Most of the crude and heat damage collects at the caliper, bleed until the color is clear/clean and you will be OK. Alternate with Super Blue and you know for sure the entire line is fresh.
Vacuum bleeding "sucks", suggesting going to a Motive pressure bleeder since you track your car. Gravity bleed works also if you have the time.
I think the sequence is left rear, right front, right rear, left front.
Since the rear lines are longer, those should take more fluid.
Most of the crude and heat damage collects at the caliper, bleed until the color is clear/clean and you will be OK. Alternate with Super Blue and you know for sure the entire line is fresh.
Vacuum bleeding "sucks", suggesting going to a Motive pressure bleeder since you track your car. Gravity bleed works also if you have the time.
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
I like how you can dump a quart into the Motive and not worry so much about refilling or running the reservoir dry.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 119
Likes: 1
The vacuum (with a MitiVAC) has always been messy for me and sucks air in around the fitting (can't tell when you have the air out) but I was probably doing something wrong.
I like how you can dump a quart into the Motive and not worry so much about refilling or running the reservoir dry.
I like how you can dump a quart into the Motive and not worry so much about refilling or running the reservoir dry.
Try Speed Bleeders.
They have a built in check valve.
Put a hose on the end of the blender and other end into a clear jar. Pump by yourself until clear fluid comes out.
NO MESS and u can do it SOLO.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
Not much of a problem on the street but if you track the car, the sealant will fail after a few bleeds. You can reapply sealant but that got old after a few times.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
Likes: 9,817
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
The vacuum (with a MitiVAC) has always been messy for me and sucks air in around the fitting (can't tell when you have the air out) but I was probably doing something wrong.
I like how you can dump a quart into the Motive and not worry so much about refilling or running the reservoir dry.
I like how you can dump a quart into the Motive and not worry so much about refilling or running the reservoir dry.
By the way the Mighty Vac, Vacula and Motive are all solo operated. Speed Bleeders have their own issues.
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
I'll try the pressure only approach next time -- thanks!
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 787
Likes: 127
From: Connecticut
Thanks everyone for the replies. I appreciate the education.
Can ATE Super Blue stain the reservoir?
Is the left rear, right front, right rear, left front sequence correct? I cant see that it really makes a difference though as long as you get out all the old fluid and don't add air.
I already bought a MityVAC so Ill stick with it for now (cant see spending more money now for a Motive). Some of what I read said pressure bleeders can introduce air. I cant see how that can happen as long as you keep fluid in.
Thanks again!
Can ATE Super Blue stain the reservoir?
Is the left rear, right front, right rear, left front sequence correct? I cant see that it really makes a difference though as long as you get out all the old fluid and don't add air.
I already bought a MityVAC so Ill stick with it for now (cant see spending more money now for a Motive). Some of what I read said pressure bleeders can introduce air. I cant see how that can happen as long as you keep fluid in.
Thanks again!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
Yes, super blue can (will) stain the reservoir.
For safety, the C6 brake system is divided into 2 circuits - the RR/LF, and the LR/RF. In the event of a leak or damage to one of the circuits, the other one should be able to stop the car. To properly bleed the brakes, begin at the corner furthest from the driver - manual says the sequence is: RR, LF, LR, RF.
For safety, the C6 brake system is divided into 2 circuits - the RR/LF, and the LR/RF. In the event of a leak or damage to one of the circuits, the other one should be able to stop the car. To properly bleed the brakes, begin at the corner furthest from the driver - manual says the sequence is: RR, LF, LR, RF.
