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Brake bleeding best to Push or Pull

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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 08:34 PM
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Default Brake bleeding best to Push or Pull

I'm looking at installing at Wilwood Superlite 14/14 rotor brake kit and maybe a line lock setup. For brake bleeding on a C6 is it best to Push or Pull brake fluid. I have used a Friends vacuum that pulls brake fluid out of the caliper bleed screw and that worked well and have it to use again if I want. Heres two types of brake bleeders I'm looking at. I've never used the push up type brake bleeder but it looks like a good idea because air does like to go up. What works best for you?
THANKS RAYZZZ MY CORVETTE LIKES MY MONEY

PUSH UP STYLE

pushes brake fluid up Thur caliper and out Thur master cylinder


$79.95



After witnessing the success of Phoenix's "professional" bleeders by mechanics and Race teams. DIY Gearheads asked for a less expensive version for occasional use... we listened and the result is the V12 DIY. The DIY has the bare necessities that still allow world class brake and clutch bleeding. To get you started quickly, we hired Stacey David of Gearz TV to make a special DVD just for the DIY. The DVD is included in each kit. The DIY is also very popular with motorcycles bicycles and ATVs.
The Professional V-12 (made of Zytel) has the same accessories as the MaxPro and is rebuildable.
Reverse Bleed Technology:

Using commonsense Phoenix Systems has revolutionized hydraulic bleeding technology by pushing air up through a hydraulic system sending the air bubbles in the direction they already want to go. This patented technology ensures a perfect bleed every time, never forcing air down like traditional bleed methodologies.
Features/Benefits:
  • Patented Reverse Fluid Injection
  • Removes trapped air in brake system which is the main cause of a “spongy pedal”
  • Designed for retail sale
  • Includes main fittings and adapters to perform basic brake and clutch bleeding
  • One man brake bleeder in 15 minute operation
  • Multiple uses for the home and shop
  • No rebuild kits available
  • Confidently handle the toughest jobs in minutes
  • Fix a spongy pedal in the driveway of your own home
  • One tool for all your bleeding needs
  • Works great for the weekend mechanic
  • Doubles as a pressure and vacuum pump
  • The cheapest way to get a rock-hard brake pedal
  • Will pay for itself after the first use

Included in Kit:
  • Universal Bottle Adapter and Tube
  • 5 Bleed screw Adapters, 2 Taper tips for weep holes and 1 connecter for inlet hose
  • User Manual
  • Training DVD
PUSH DOWN STYLE

push brake fluid down Thur master cylinder and out caliper

GM Bleeder 0108 Product SKU Price GM Bleeder 0108

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0108 $64.95 Ship To: X

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Features Custom cap to fit most late model GM cars and trucks. Fits Cadillac's, Buick's, Chevrolet's, Oldsmobile's,Poniac's Saturn's. This kit comes with adapter 1108.
Note: If you are looking for the 2005+ Mustang bleeder kit please order SKU 0118
All bleeders come with a full 1 year warranty!


CUSTOMER REVIEWS
Average Rating: (From 2 Reviews):
Read Complete Reviews | Submit a Review Best thing next to my Impact Gun!
From Ted of Atlanta, GA (in a NE 'Burb), Georgia on 1/26/2010.

Best thing since sliced bread
From Kenneth of Cheyenne, Wyoming on 9/17/2008.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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Old school. I gravity bleed.

San
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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I've always bled from the master cylinder down and haven't had any problems.

I think bleeding into the master cylinder is a good idea in theory but I would be concerned about pushing all of the contamination into it from the brake lines.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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The hardware looks like a toy, probably would not work well or long...

The gunk and water tends to settle at the lowest point so you would be pushing it up, maybe muck up the ABS.

The Motive works great.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 09:03 PM
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Default good point

Originally Posted by StKnoWhere
The hardware looks like a toy, probably would not work well or long...

The gunk and water tends to settle at the lowest point so you would be pushing it up, maybe muck up the ABS.

The Motive works great.
Good point
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BadAV
.....I think bleeding into the master cylinder is a good idea in theory but I would be concerned about pushing all of the contamination into it from the brake lines.


The calipers/pads are the components that get the hottest and can degrade the fluid the most.

If you "flush" the system and push new, fresh, clean fluid all the way from each caliper up to the m/c where you can suck out all the old, dirty, contaminated fluid, then it might be okay.

Butt....like StKnoWhere says, you're still pushing all the worst of the old fluid up through your entire system.

When you "bleed" in the normal manner, you're not flushing new fluid throughout the entire system - you're only pushing out the dirtiest fluid from the calipers.

You can't "bleed" with that push type tool - you'll just push the dirtiest fluid a foot or two up into the system. You may get fresh fluid into the calipers, but the dirty fluid is still sitting there just a little upstream.

I use a Motive Power Bleeders and it works great!!!

Bob

Last edited by BEZ06; Jul 10, 2011 at 09:22 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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I use the motive power bleeder too...
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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motive bleeder, use it with or without fluid. never had any luck using the vacuum pump from the caliper.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 02:39 AM
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Vacuum at the bleeder or pressure at the master cylinder reservoir are basically the same. High pressure at the top and low pressure at the bottom. I have used both but currently have been using the Motive Bleeder. I also have a Vacula vacuum bleeder which runs off my air compressor. Biggest problem with it is it is almost too good. If not careful it is very easy to suck all of the fluid out the reservoir very quickly so you need somebody watching it to make sure that doesn't happen.

Bill
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 05:09 AM
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nice read! thanks all

pointer to motive bleeder? or will search when time permits. My brake fluid and mcy are clean and caliper's are fresh. Life is good.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by oldmansan
Old school. I gravity bleed.

San
I'm with him. Don't own any bleeding toys and get by just fine.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by oldmansan
Old school. I gravity bleed.

San
Simple and effective. No additional force involved.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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I have the Wilwood kit and when I used the vac option I still had air in the system. Call me **** but I stick with the 2-man job style. I'll give the Motive you posted a try one day as I see a ton of those at RA being used. If I have an extra person around I'd rather go manual over anything but that's just me being me.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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Default what

How do you gravity bleed the brakes. Please tell me more.
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Rayzzz
How do you gravity bleed the brakes. Please tell me more.
THANKS RAYZZZ MY CORVETTE LIKES MY MONEY
Well I don't know about the other guys, but I just put a clear plastic hose over the bleeder, crack it open a bit and let it drip into a pan.
I suck out most of the fluid from the reservoir before I start and fill with new. Then just wait for the fluid to run clear at each bleeder screw.

It's not a fast process, but you can do it by yourself. There's plenty of time to do other stuff, as it can take 10 minutes for the rears and a little less on the front. Just don't let the reservoir run dry.
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Well I don't know about the other guys, but I just put a clear plastic hose over the bleeder, crack it open a bit and let it drip into a pan.
I suck out most of the fluid from the reservoir before I start and fill with new. Then just wait for the fluid to run clear at each bleeder screw.

It's not a fast process, but you can do it by yourself. There's plenty of time to do other stuff, as it can take 10 minutes for the rears and a little less on the front. Just don't let the reservoir run dry.
What he said. You can then have someone pump the brakes while you get the last little bit of air out. If I thought I'd get better results with a bleeder I'd buy one.

After viewing your posts, I think brakes are not an area you're familiar with. It would be in your best interest to have a professional install/bleed the brakes you decide on. You really don't want to have issues with an item that your life depends on. Not trying to be negative, just voicing my opinion.

San
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 07:05 AM
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I tried the vacuum types and it was a hassle. I have speed bleeders and love them. One man job and really fast with them.

http://speedbleeder.com/
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To Brake bleeding best to Push or Pull

Old Jul 12, 2011 | 07:06 AM
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Default no

Sorry just acting stupid to see what answers I get. Sometimes you can find out a lot buy asking questions. I had a Datsun 280Z and I installed Toyota 4x4 calipers on the front and after spending hours and hours on bleeding the brakes I gravity bleed them for about a day per caliper and I had brakes. I've done 5 car brake systems so far and 3 of them gave me a fit. Thats why I'm asking ?
So far by myself I've installed a 2800 stall. 3:90 rear diff, Kook's headers, exhaust system with cutouts, A&A supercharger and a bunch interior and exterior stuff. Lookie below Eyes nos some stuffs.
I'd rather ask a question and look stupid then not ask it and stay stupid.
I can learn from others. Thanks all. What else you know.

THANKS RAYZZZ MY CORVETTE LIKES MY MONEY

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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:37 AM
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I simply start by opening up the bleeder(s) and letting the fluid run down into a catch pan. Then one bleeder at a time (when two) fit the old school plastic bleeder bottle to it and hang the bottle off a spring perch. The hose being higher than the exit port of the caliper will purge air visually in the hose. I may lightly and gently assist this on the pedal, often by hand.

A side note to this however is that its best when the reservoir is full (the weight helps) and of course can only be done when the reservoir is higher than the exit port. Also the caliper should be as vertical as possible and not laying over at a 30 degree angle. Bleed passages are designed to purge upward and if laid over too far can cause a cavitation in a portion of the piston bore.

Lastly an occasional light tapping of the caliper with a hammer handle can free up the kling-ons as bubble stick like in a soda bottle.
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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I prefer the old school 2-person method. I put the wife behind the wheel with a Cosmo magazine and she pumps the brakes while I work the bleeder screws at each wheel. Easy, effective, and no special tools required.

Last edited by Neil B; Jul 12, 2011 at 10:42 AM.
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