Brake bleeding best to Push or Pull
THANKS RAYZZZ MY CORVETTE LIKES MY MONEY
PUSH UP STYLE
pushes brake fluid up Thur caliper and out Thur master cylinder


The Professional V-12 (made of Zytel) has the same accessories as the MaxPro and is rebuildable.
Reverse Bleed Technology:
Features/Benefits:
- Patented Reverse Fluid Injection
- Removes trapped air in brake system which is the main cause of a “spongy pedal”
- Designed for retail sale
- Includes main fittings and adapters to perform basic brake and clutch bleeding
- One man brake bleeder in 15 minute operation
- Multiple uses for the home and shop
- No rebuild kits available
- Confidently handle the toughest jobs in minutes
- Fix a spongy pedal in the driveway of your own home
- One tool for all your bleeding needs
- Works great for the weekend mechanic
- Doubles as a pressure and vacuum pump
- The cheapest way to get a rock-hard brake pedal
- Will pay for itself after the first use
Included in Kit:
- Universal Bottle Adapter and Tube
- 5 Bleed screw Adapters, 2 Taper tips for weep holes and 1 connecter for inlet hose
- User Manual
- Training DVD
push brake fluid down Thur master cylinder and out caliper
GM Bleeder 0108 Product SKU Price GM Bleeder 0108
In Stock
0108 $64.95
Ship To: X(add new) yourself Ship To NamePlease choose a short (25 character maximum) name for the recipient of the product GM Bleeder 0108.
Features Custom cap to fit most late model GM cars and trucks. Fits Cadillac's, Buick's, Chevrolet's, Oldsmobile's,Poniac's Saturn's. This kit comes with adapter 1108.
Note: If you are looking for the 2005+ Mustang bleeder kit please order SKU 0118
All bleeders come with a full 1 year warranty!




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Best thing next to my Impact Gun! From Ted of Atlanta, GA (in a NE 'Burb), Georgia on 1/26/2010.




Best thing since sliced bread From Kenneth of Cheyenne, Wyoming on 9/17/2008.
I think bleeding into the master cylinder is a good idea in theory but I would be concerned about pushing all of the contamination into it from the brake lines.
The gunk and water tends to settle at the lowest point so you would be pushing it up, maybe muck up the ABS.
The Motive works great.

The calipers/pads are the components that get the hottest and can degrade the fluid the most.
If you "flush" the system and push new, fresh, clean fluid all the way from each caliper up to the m/c where you can suck out all the old, dirty, contaminated fluid, then it might be okay.
Butt....like StKnoWhere says, you're still pushing all the worst of the old fluid up through your entire system.
When you "bleed" in the normal manner, you're not flushing new fluid throughout the entire system - you're only pushing out the dirtiest fluid from the calipers.
You can't "bleed" with that push type tool - you'll just push the dirtiest fluid a foot or two up into the system. You may get fresh fluid into the calipers, but the dirty fluid is still sitting there just a little upstream.
I use a Motive Power Bleeders and it works great!!!
Bob
Last edited by BEZ06; Jul 10, 2011 at 09:22 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts




Bill





I suck out most of the fluid from the reservoir before I start and fill with new. Then just wait for the fluid to run clear at each bleeder screw.
It's not a fast process, but you can do it by yourself. There's plenty of time to do other stuff, as it can take 10 minutes for the rears and a little less on the front. Just don't let the reservoir run dry.
I suck out most of the fluid from the reservoir before I start and fill with new. Then just wait for the fluid to run clear at each bleeder screw.
It's not a fast process, but you can do it by yourself. There's plenty of time to do other stuff, as it can take 10 minutes for the rears and a little less on the front. Just don't let the reservoir run dry.
After viewing your posts, I think brakes are not an area you're familiar with. It would be in your best interest to have a professional install/bleed the brakes you decide on. You really don't want to have issues with an item that your life depends on. Not trying to be negative, just voicing my opinion.

San
http://speedbleeder.com/

So far by myself I've installed a 2800 stall. 3:90 rear diff, Kook's headers, exhaust system with cutouts, A&A supercharger and a bunch interior and exterior stuff. Lookie below Eyes nos some stuffs.
I'd rather ask a question and look stupid then not ask it and stay stupid.
I can learn from others. Thanks all. What else you know.
THANKS RAYZZZ MY CORVETTE LIKES MY MONEY

A side note to this however is that its best when the reservoir is full (the weight helps) and of course can only be done when the reservoir is higher than the exit port. Also the caliper should be as vertical as possible and not laying over at a 30 degree angle. Bleed passages are designed to purge upward and if laid over too far can cause a cavitation in a portion of the piston bore.
Lastly an occasional light tapping of the caliper with a hammer handle can free up the kling-ons as bubble stick like in a soda bottle.
Last edited by Neil B; Jul 12, 2011 at 10:42 AM.












