Bellhousing Removal Help
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 804
Likes: 5
From: Fresno CA
Bellhousing Removal Help
I'm in the middle of a clutch upgrade on an 06 ZO6 and cannot seem to figure out how the bellhousing comes off. I removed all the bolts, tilted the motor back as much as I was comfortable with not hitting the firewall and even loosened the subframe bolts and lowered it slightly and still there just isn't enough room to get it out of the tunnel.
Is there something I'm missing here?
Is there something I'm missing here?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 854
From: Daytona Beach FL
The Service Manual says:
Did you lower the engine that much? It's still a tight fit, but can be done.
Good luck!
Bob
The upper bolts on the bellhousing can be accessed by lowering the engine cradle approximately 25mm (1 inch) and tipping the engine back
Good luck!
Bob
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 804
Likes: 5
From: Fresno CA
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 804
Likes: 5
From: Fresno CA
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 160
Likes: 2
From: Austin Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
I put a scissor jack with a 2x4 on it under the back of the oil pan and then removed all four nuts holding the front subframe on. Not sure the jack was necessary, but it made me feel better. I do not think the engine will drop more than a couple of inches with no jack and none of the nuts anyway.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 854
From: Daytona Beach FL
If by trans tunnel you're talking about the driveshaft support tube, it shouldn't even be in the car.
If you're talking about the area under the car, once you've removed the driveshaft support assembly, trans, and diff then there shouldn't be any problem removing the bellhousing.
To remove/reinstall the clutch you need to remove the driveline support assembly.
You did remove the transmission and differential from the car, didn't you?
It must be removed, or at least disconnected, so you can lower and pull the entire driveshaft/transmission/differential aft enough so the prop input shaft at the front of the driveline support assembly clears the engine flywheel housing (bellhousing).
Then you can remove the bellhousing and access the clutch assembly.
Bob
If you're talking about the area under the car, once you've removed the driveshaft support assembly, trans, and diff then there shouldn't be any problem removing the bellhousing.
To remove/reinstall the clutch you need to remove the driveline support assembly.
You did remove the transmission and differential from the car, didn't you?
It must be removed, or at least disconnected, so you can lower and pull the entire driveshaft/transmission/differential aft enough so the prop input shaft at the front of the driveline support assembly clears the engine flywheel housing (bellhousing).
Then you can remove the bellhousing and access the clutch assembly.
Bob
Last edited by BEZ06; Aug 25, 2011 at 04:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 804
Likes: 5
From: Fresno CA
If by trans tunnel you're talking about the driveshaft support tube, it shouldn't even be in the car.
If you're talking about the area under the car, once you've removed the driveshaft support assembly, trans, and diff then there shouldn't be any problem removing the bellhousing.
To remove/reinstall the clutch you need to remove the driveline support assembly.
You did remove the transmission and differential from the car, didn't you?
It must be removed, or at least disconnected, so you can lower and pull the entire driveshaft/transmission/differential aft enough so the prop input shaft at the front of the driveline support assembly clears the engine flywheel housing (bellhousing).
Then you can remove the bellhousing and access the clutch assembly.
Bob
If you're talking about the area under the car, once you've removed the driveshaft support assembly, trans, and diff then there shouldn't be any problem removing the bellhousing.
To remove/reinstall the clutch you need to remove the driveline support assembly.
You did remove the transmission and differential from the car, didn't you?
It must be removed, or at least disconnected, so you can lower and pull the entire driveshaft/transmission/differential aft enough so the prop input shaft at the front of the driveline support assembly clears the engine flywheel housing (bellhousing).
Then you can remove the bellhousing and access the clutch assembly.
Bob
Last edited by eguyett1985; Aug 25, 2011 at 06:00 PM.
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 568
Likes: 4
From: Cambridge
I am just about finished rebuilding my car after this very job, It is a struggle to get the bellhousing out but it is possible without dropping the front cradle. I did it on stands in the garage laying on my back, lots of fun!
I think I had to rotate it slightly as i pulled it away and then give it a good old wiggle. I did lay and ponder for some time because I also thought it was gonna be impossible to get it out. Despite thinking everything was clear it was constantly being caught on harness', clips and hyd pipes. Eventually though it came out and it also went back in!
Keep trying before anymore major surgery!
I think I had to rotate it slightly as i pulled it away and then give it a good old wiggle. I did lay and ponder for some time because I also thought it was gonna be impossible to get it out. Despite thinking everything was clear it was constantly being caught on harness', clips and hyd pipes. Eventually though it came out and it also went back in!
Keep trying before anymore major surgery!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,094
Likes: 197
From: Colorado Springs, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Tilt the motor forward by jacking up the rear of the pan. I lost count how many times I did this job and never once did I remove a cradle bolt.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 804
Likes: 5
From: Fresno CA
I take it you first lowered the back to remove the bellhousing bolts and then tilted it forward to actually remove the bellhousing? I'm deep into just dropping the whole cradle with the engines for a variety of reasons that I'll go over in a new thread along with some additional questions. Thanks for the responses.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,436
Likes: 4
From: Everett Wa
I lossened the cradle nuts so only couple of threads where left holding the cradle in. I had a bottle screw jack under rear of the pan to adjust angle. After I got the bell housing off the pins I twisted the bell housing to the right to get the starter bump pointing down then it came right out.
