So this weekend i was autocrossing. Nothing out of the ordinary except that i started to have a little problem with first and second gear. Heres what happened. Saturday i was racing and on two seperate occasions i had trouble getting the shifter out of second gear after the race. It almost felt like it was stuck in with the clutch pushed in. Sunday started pretty good but half way through the day i started slightly grinding second gear when i shifted. it got a bit worse the next few races so i decided take it easy. I would leave the line easy shift into second (which it does alright in low RPM's) and just stay in second for the race. I would have stopped completly but i needed the points and the season is just about over. At first i thought this must be clutch, but now im wondering if it could be a syncro. A couple key components. Putting the car in first in a stopped position seems more difficult than normal and sometimes it wont go in. I can usually try a different gear then back to first and it corrects the problem. Shifting to second under high rpms causes grinding but under normal acceleration and easy shifting seems to slide in fine. I drove the car home with just normal driving and it seemed to shift alright although a little tighter. I was going to see if i had the trouble going from second to third or third to forth under high rpms but i need to change my alignment back to street before driving up and down the highway a lot. I am planning on getting this fixed asap, just wondering if anyone had a better idea of what it might be or what i can do to narrow it down. If its the clutch ill do it myself but if its a syncro its going to a shop. Feedback requested, thanks in advance.

 

Do you have any check engine light codes popping up? I would get it fix as soon as possible since the more you drive it; the more it going to go south until it will be undrivable. Hope it still under warranty and if it is; you are in great shape.

 

No check engine lights and my luck, I think the powertrain warranty just ran out last month.

 

It sounds like the 1-2 synchronizer. Stop by a GM dealership and talk to a service manager. If you're still in the mileage (07 have 5yr/100K warranty) but out by time, he has the authority to good will the work or at least have you pay a small deductable. If he says no, try another. If GM can't do anything for you, give me a shout.

 

Really?

 

The car is a 2007 with 46000 miles. I do believe the powertrain warranty went out in September. I'll go by the dealership this week to see if they will do anything. Do you really think they will cause that would be awesome!!

 

I've been with GM dealership for over 23 years. After the bankruptcy, the new GM has been trying to win back the buyers by good willing a lot of BIG repairs. Also, if you don't have a lot of warranty repairs in the past, that can help you. Good luck!

 

Might be as simple as a loose shifter box. The rubber mount bushings beyween the box bottom and the torque tube mounting surface are known to tear with age and loosen the box. Also the shifter sliding shaft inside the box moves through rubber bushings which deteriorate with use causing the slider shaft to move abnormally. It's an easy DIY fix to replace the entire shifter box for about $130 (parts).

 

Wow, I posted something just like this a little while ago because I'm having an identical problem in my 2007, though mine has just over 25,000 miles.

I do not feel that GM will do anything for me because I brought the car to the dealership recently to have the transmission resealed, since it was leaking, and the grinding issue was still present when I left. For them to have taken the transmission apart and then not fixed whatever's wrong would indicate that they'll give me a hard time about it if I ask them.

If it is the 1-2 synchro, what does a job like that typically cost? Can the synchro be upgraded to the '12 carbon-cone synchros?

 

They've been carbon for a long while.

An upgrade in carbon material was made for 2006.

The 2007 is still a T56. A 2012 is a TR6060; the changeover to which involves a significant number of parts includes but is not limited to all gears & synchros.

 

The shifter bushings is a cheap and easy thing to try before spending a ton of money. You can buy a set of 4 (only 2 needed at a time) for about $20. Doesn't hurt to buy a short shifter at the same time.

Run a search to find the vendor/part number for the bushing kit. It made a huge difference in my '05.

 

Does anybody have a link or know where I can see how to replace the bushings?

 

I still have 2 of mine in my garage. When I get home from work I will check to see if I still have vendor info and part number information. Won't be until after 1900 tonight.

 

Looks like the bushings attach to the shift box. Can this be accessed from the top?

 

Yes. Eemove the torx bit bolts, pull the metal sleeves and the pieces of the old bushings will come right out. Once center console is removed, it's a 10 minute job.

 

What purpose do the bushings serve? Do worn bushings mean the box is moving whereas it isn't supposed to? Could this be the culprit behind my 1-2 shift grinds?

 

Without knowing all the mechanics involved, I would say the main purpose is to absorb vibration coming from the tranny. A secondary effect would be to help align the shifter to the position you want the "engaged gates" (ie, firt gear, second gear and so on) to be in. Notice the metal sleeve has a slot cut in it for that purpose. As you tighten the torx bolts, move the shifter into 1st and move the base of the box forward or backward to get the configuration you want before tightening up the torx bolts.

With disintegrated rubber bushings, my car had a tough time finding gears. After the replacement, the problem improved significantly, but not entirely. That's why I say give it a try. It's only gonna cost you $20-25 and an hour of your time.

 

The other bushings that can deteriorate are at both ends of the shifter box where the shaft slides back and forth. If they are shot the whole shfter box needs replacing, but don't fret, a new box isn't that expensive. GM Parts House (Gene) will sell you one for around $130.

 

Just curious, how does the clutch fluid look?

 

Look at this thread, it's the one I used to order my bushings:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-bushings.html

Mid America Motorworks has them here:

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette?frame=7.11246

Temporarily out of stock, but Cheap and easy! Hope this works for both of you.

Sean