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From: Somewhere you've probably never heard of in New Mexico
St. Jude Donor '11-'13-'14-'15
F55 shocks do fail
I was getting a thumping noise from my right front suspension when I hit any of the numerous unavoidable bumps in the road where I live in rural New Mexico. i took the car to the dealer and they told me the front shocks were shot and quoted me $2400 for them to replace both front shocks. It was not covered under my extended warranty. I recently had my wheels and brakes off as I was replacing the rotors and pads and finally saw what they meant by shot. the stuff outlined in red is the fluid from the right front shock. The left side didn't show any signs of fluid.
I know that failure of these shocks is rare but does anyone know how difficult it would be to replace these myself at home instead of paying the dealer markup and labor? I'm told gene at Partshouse has the shocks for $650 each. Do they have to be replaced in pairs? Are there any special tools needed? Instructions anywhere? Any help would be appreciated.
I'm a mech. engr. and I don't see why you would need to replace in pairs - shouldn't be wear/break-in modes as in brakes. But to be sure why not order the complete manuals. For about $150, I think from GMpartswarehouse, you can get complete Corvette set of repair manuals. Some cases you may want to do the work, but if for nothing else you can read the pertinent section, become educated on the issue, and armed with some knowledge, can avoid getting ripped off when you do get service done. Your story is good for people to hear and how the extended warranties don't cover very much.
I'm a mech. engr. and I don't see why you would need to replace in pairs - shouldn't be wear/break-in modes as in brakes. But to be sure why not order the complete manuals. For about $150, I think from GMpartswarehouse, you can get complete Corvette set of repair manuals. Some cases you may want to do the work, but if for nothing else you can read the pertinent section, become educated on the issue, and armed with some knowledge, can avoid getting ripped off when you do get service done. Your story is good for people to hear and how the extended warranties don't cover very much.
I guess it depends on your idea of "very much". The GMPP extended warranty on our 2001 and 2006 covered everything we needed fixed on those cars, and it was a lot; except when I found a small crack in the 2001 transparent top at about 45k miles. Sure, that would have been expensive to replace that by ourselves (I just left it alone), but we still "made money" on both of the extended warranties. Our 2009 just got out of the 3/36 warranty and has a slight "clunk" in my seat, dealer says it's coverd no matter what the cause (probably seat adjustor/track).
Any extended warranty is supposed to make money for the seller, but they're losing big time on us.
also, an update to the info provided by OP is that the aftermarket, prepaid "warranty" was from the dealer who sold the car, and it was not a GM dealer. so, to think that another car maker's "warranty" (actually, prepaid service contract) will pay for it is a stretch.
I guess the oil hasn't been heated numerous times and the oil "broken down".
Seal friction, on a new shock, I think would disappear fairly quick.
Any nitrogen charge should be the same unless a leak in the shock body or it leaked out of the shaft seal.
(I am unsure if the Vette system is sharing any pressure/ air charge between left and right shocks)
OP did not mention any mileage.
So, I think if the shocks have greater than 25K on them then change as a set. Mark the old good one as 25K mileage and inventory if need be for another failure with similar mileage.
If shocks have less than 15K mileage I might gamble on replacing one, test and buy second if need be.
Not a cheap repair...so that's how I might budget for it.
FWIW on my motorbike rear shock I feel degradation around 5K mileage. Oil change and new nitrogen maintenance required. Miata owner forums I recall say there shocks degrade at 15K mileage.
Only way to test is to get the shock hot and test it on a bench..new and old. Cold shocks always "feel" good.
Last edited by Kenny94945; Oct 8, 2011 at 07:03 PM.
Reason: K values
I guess the oil hasn't been heated numerous times and the oil "broken down".
Seal friction, on a new shock, I think would disappear fairly quick.
Any nitrogen charge should be the same unless a leak in the shock body or it leaked out of the shaft seal.
(I am unsure if the Vette system is sharing any pressure/ air charge between left and right shocks)
OP did not mention any mileage.
So, I think if the shocks have greater than K on them then change as a set. Mark the old good one as K mileage and inventory if need be for another failure with similar mileage.
If shocks have less than K mileage I might gamble on replacing one, test and buy second if need be.
Not a cheap repair...so that's how I might budget for it.
WWI on my motorbike rear shock I feel degradation around K mileage. Oil change and new nitrogen maintenance required. Miata owner forums I recall say there shocks degrade at K mileage.
Only way to test is to get the shock hot and test it on a bench..new and old. Cold shocks always "feel" good.
What is this "K" mileage you are referring to?
1,000 and 10,000 miles seem awfully soon for problems, but 100,000 seems a bit long.
From: Somewhere you've probably never heard of in New Mexico
St. Jude Donor '11-'13-'14-'15
Zoxxo, thanks for the instructions.
The ext warranty I bought thru Ford has already paid for itself as I had to have my Nav system replaced and the starter and wire harness that shorted out also replaced. So it's not that it didn't cover much, it just didn't cover the shocks.