Brake problem won't go away- need help
Tolero Apto Victum
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 9,669
Likes: 37
From: Woodlands TX
Shoot this guy a PM - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ne-culley.html maybe he can help you out.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
Cut out the connector at the subframe and solder spliced the wires together, still have the problem but it seems better (takes longer to activate). Hub and harness are all new.
No codes after the car sits. The warnings activate after I drive 1-5 miles. Seems to occur when hitting a bump.
Guess the ECBM is next.
No codes after the car sits. The warnings activate after I drive 1-5 miles. Seems to occur when hitting a bump.
Guess the ECBM is next.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia PA
AH failures typical take a few miles to register because the fault has to happen x number of times over a certain mileage. You need a service manual and a Tech 2 to properly diagnose these issues, otherwise you're just shotgunning parts and $$$.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Cut out the connector at the subframe and solder spliced the wires together, still have the problem but it seems better (takes longer to activate). Hub and harness are all new.
No codes after the car sits. The warnings activate after I drive 1-5 miles. Seems to occur when hitting a bump.
Guess the ECBM is next.
No codes after the car sits. The warnings activate after I drive 1-5 miles. Seems to occur when hitting a bump.
Guess the ECBM is next.
The ONLY way that you are going to know if you have a poor mechanical bond between the male pin and female pin is to do a PIN PULL TEST. Make/purchase or find a male pin the same size as the pin in the male WSS Sensor plug. INSERT it into the female pin. You MUST feel resistance on insertion and removal. If its LOOSE, the connection will be compromised upon each wheel vibration, bump or jar..
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
You still have the mechanical electrical MALE/FEMALE connection at the wheel Hub / jumper.
The ONLY way that you are going to know if you have a poor mechanical bond between the male pin and female pin is to do a PIN PULL TEST. Make/purchase or find a male pin the same size as the pin in the male WSS Sensor plug. INSERT it into the female pin. You MUST feel resistance on insertion and removal. If its LOOSE, the connection will be compromised upon each wheel vibration, bump or jar..
Bill
The ONLY way that you are going to know if you have a poor mechanical bond between the male pin and female pin is to do a PIN PULL TEST. Make/purchase or find a male pin the same size as the pin in the male WSS Sensor plug. INSERT it into the female pin. You MUST feel resistance on insertion and removal. If its LOOSE, the connection will be compromised upon each wheel vibration, bump or jar..
Bill
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
Strange thing now is I no longer hear the "ding, ding, ding" when it activates.
Last edited by StKnoWhere; Sep 26, 2014 at 07:55 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 11
From: St Louis MO
Problem found, harness was routed incorrectly during cam/radiator install and chafing against the steering rack causing intermittent LF Speed Sensor signal.
Wire repaired, harness routed to precent chafing and all is good.
Thanks again to all who offered advise.
Wire repaired, harness routed to precent chafing and all is good.
Thanks again to all who offered advise.
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: St Pete FL
Did you replace the harness? The part number I'm getting is 15248662. Is it easy to replace the harness for the speed sensor?
Codes I'm getting are C0040-00 and C0253-00 .
Right Front refers to Front Passenger side wheel correct?
Codes I'm getting are C0040-00 and C0253-00 .
Right Front refers to Front Passenger side wheel correct?
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