Danspeed1

This problem is only getting worse. Went to go start the car today and it refused again. I have a 2005 C6 Z51 6 speed. When I press the button to start the car the ignition, lights, stereo, and everything that is supposed to come, comes on except the car does not start. It does not click, or turn over; nothing happens. When I let of the clutch and wait a second the DIC comes on with the Corvette start up BS but nothing else happens. I press the button again with my foot on the clutch and the car almost goes dead for second, then does the same thing all over again. Decided to take the battery to Chevy. Chevy said its reads at 12.1 Volts and is "OK." Gave the battery a charge, going to put it in tomorrow. Car has had no codes. This problem actually started months ago with the car running. I was driving along one day and everything on the dash went dead. Shut the car off to "reset" it and it refused to start. Finally after pressing the button 50+ times it started for no apparent reason. Drove fine for the next couple of days then left me in a parking lot again until I pressed the button a number of times and it finally started. When the dash goes dead, one thing I noticed is the security lock/door light on the cluster comes on solid; very interesting. This problem is getting less and less intermittent and more and more frequent. Chevy wants me to bring the car in. The car did something similar last year and I brought it in. After throwing parts at it for two weeks... everything from ABS to Wiring, to clutch switches they told me it was my aftermarket stereo I have had for 5+ years without issue.

Any thoughts?

DG

Tikiman12

New battery

Vette_DD

And have the car checked for a battery drain while not running.

C7&7

Its the steering column lock. Happens to every 05 eventually. Welcome to the club.

m R g S r

I'd vote for the starter solenoid being bad. sounds very similar to what happened to my 2006....but i had unwrapped/uncoated long tubes on it, so this was the cause of the melted starter solenoid.

i never had the dead dash thing, only the no start issue.....

calemasters

Just about all batteries will read 12 volts with not load. All GM dealers have a GR8 battery tester from Mid-Tronics. Did they use the GR8 to test your battery? It is the only way to know about the battery condition (good vs bad).

Also, you could have a defective relay that controls the starter solenoid or other system.

boraxman

Check grounds

Danspeed1

The car has no electrical or performance modifications other than the stereo that was put in 5 years ago. The problem began 1 year ago so I am ready to put the stereo theory the dealer wants to point fingers at to rest. The battery is a New AC Delco purchased 1 year ago from the dealer. This problem began occurring again around the end of October this year. I had no problems over the summer, not one. The battery was installed 11/10/10. I wanted to get them to warranty the battery however it appears as though they believe the battery is OK so they are refusing to do this. However for $85 I am willing to put the battery theory to rest and buy a new one.

The only question I have pertaining to the battery is what would cause a battery to read 12volts, yet not even allow the car to "click over." I am not even getting as far as the click MOST other cars give you when the battery is not strong enough to turn it over. Maybe I am used to older cars but seems like the car should at least hard start. This car is not even trying. Also... even more importantly, why would the car run at times, and then the dash go dead while its running. Wouldn't the alternator keep that from happening??????

DG

Wild

I'd hate to say this but its true... 05's love to do this. Its a recall and ive been threw it a few times

C7&7

It actually is not a recall, I wish it was. You must be thinking of the active handling "clip" install last year sometime. It is just something GM turns their cheek to because they know the steering column lock is a POS and it should have never been put in the 2005 C6. If you go back and research it was removed for the 2006 model year.

OP: Is your car a MN6? When this happens next time I want you to wiggle the steering wheel and see if it is locked. If it's not then the SCL has disengaged (which is a problem). Then pop the hook, with a 10mm socket unhook the positive terminal of the battery and count to 10. Then hook the positive terminal back up and try to start the car. If it fires up, odds are it's the steering column lock.

C7&7

This is bizarre. I have never read about the SCL causing the car to die while driving. Have you checked all the fuses? I suppose it could be the alternator. Have the means to just replace it? They're pretty cheap in relationship to getting stranded.

Danspeed1

Will give this a try. What's the fix for this. How do I repair the column lock if it is in fact the problem?

C7&7

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ck-2005-a.html

Here is a pretty good DIY thread. However the parts for it are like $350 and I think the dealer charges a couple hours to put it in. I see this in my future also. Mine is kind of acting the same way except it has never died while driving.

Danspeed1

Yes, after I made my last post that came to mind. How would the column lock effect the cluster going dead while driving.

Keep in mind too... the Cluster goes dead but the car keeps running and driving with a dead cluster. Its only when i shut the car, I know I am in for some waiting time before it restarts.

I might throw a battery at it. I have other cars i can always install it in if its not the battery.

DG

C7&7

I don't think the SCL would effect the car while driving. The SCL historically only effects the car at initial start up.

I am betting on a new battery and alternator

calemasters

If the radio is suspect, just temporarily disconnect the power to the radio to take the radio out of the equation. You put in a new battery one year ago and your problem began one year ago. A brand new battery can be defective. Maybe have the battery tested with a Mid-Tronics GR8 or just try a known good battery.

You stated your battery reads 12 volts, but is that with a 60 amp load or no load? Have it tested with a GR8. It can determine the condition of the battery.

Danspeed1

I don't suspect the radio at all. Problems began 1 year ago and the radio has been in for 5.

Well I'll give you the short list of things we can rule out. Put in a $219 battery this morning Diehard 740CCA Platinum... and it still refuses to start. The stereo has nothing to do with it. And the column lock is working properly. Its not the alternator because I can't even get the car to start now. And its probably not the starter or the service lights wouldn't be on. I think the best way to explain the problem is to show it to you. Please see the video below in its ENTIRETY.

http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r...228_102002.mp4

C7&7

Very good video.....

Do you ever here the starter engage?

That looks like a security system issue.

Take a look under the drivers kick panel at the clutch pedal and where it hits the clutch engage sensor. I would see if you can replace that sensor. If that sensor isn't seeing a clutch engagement it wouldn't fire.

If it were the steering column lock I think disconnecting the battery and putting in a new one would get it to fire. Atleast my had this symptom. I do think the SCL could be to blame here still though.

EVRose

I read on here a while ago about a similar problem. Finally whoever it was pushed the bottom of the start button (about 8 seconds) to put it into accessory mode and then turned it off. The car started after that.
I'm leaning toward a bad clutch switch or maybe even the ignition switch.
Also, how do the battery cables look? Any corrosion at all on either end?
Have you tried with a different fob?

Danspeed1

Lets say among the "problems I am haven't gotten to repair" on my low mile 2005 Corvette, I had a pretty large water leak in the general vicinity of the clutch pedal. I haven't been able to get under the dash to repair it although I know there is a TSB for some stupid boot that leaks on 05's. Not to lead everyone in the direction of shorted equipment, but what is located in that vicinity? Is there any security modules in that area. Is it possible the clutch pedal switch got wet and is damaged? Does seem like it could be a security issue,..... HOWEVER I AM STILL NOT SURE WHY THE CLUSTER WOULD JUST GO DEAD ON A DRY DAY WHILE DRIVING THE CAR. Feels almost like a software issue, if that's even possible. I am grasping at straws here, but I need a place to start hunting for my problem. I will add though, I have noticed immediately upon the dash cluster going dead, even while the car is running/driving down the road the security light always immediately comes on. Also the first thing to flash on the DIC "Shock Absorber Inoperable." If you think about all the s**t that's going wrong all at the same time.... none if it has anything to do with the next. Pretty crazy.

DG