Unfortunately I will not be off from work till monday however I am off most of the week and will be able to dedicate some time towards looking into the problem. I am going to go through this thread and try everything mentioned. I am interested in checking my fuse box... as that would make sense. I am also interested in the post above.

A bad PCM. I have not had the car tuned at all. How do I go about having the dealer reflash the PCM? What is involved? Am i better off just having a company like ECS or PCM4LESS do it instead? If the PCM is truely bad will reflashing it solve the problem or do I need a new PCM?

I hate problems like these because it could be just about anything. I have looked through all data trying the trouble shooting section and there is just no pass to start... I hate guess and check problems.

 

I know it is easy to miss this post. Does anybody know how to post the video up so when people scrolling through see it they can just click on it and it will play? If anyone can do that I would appreciate it.

DG

 

My 05 M6 has been at the dealership for over 3 weeks with symptoms very similar to the OP's. Initially the service advisor told me they thought it was a bad ECM and were waiting for a new one - they replaced ECM and still no start. Then they told me they were going "wire by wire" through the car. After a week or so, I was told that they finally figured out that the replacement ECM was defective and new one was ordered. Same result with second ECM - at that point, they said they were baffled and had their top mechanic working on it. Week or so later they told me they thought the second ECM was also defective and another was ordered. Yesterday, SA told me everything seemed to be working except now the car was throwing a cam sensor code. They are now checking to see if the cam sensor is really a problem or the ECM is again acting up.

I'm not sure how we got from bad ECM to bad cam sensor and don't really know what to think after all this except that the car I used to describe to friends as "bulletproof" and reliable, I now have doubts about. I bought the car 3 1/2 years ago and paid a little more than I usually would to get a certified car from a chevy dealership and the car only has 60k miles on it. I had planned to keep it for several years, but now I'm not sure what my plans are. I just don't have a lot of confidence in this car at this point.

 

Here you go brother.


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*****UPDATE*****

Got my car back a couple hours ago - turns out the problem was the wiring into ECM. Apparently the pins were somehow being pushed back when connected and grounding out. Techs connecting the various ECMs resulted in different pins losing contact and different codes thrown at different times. Car runs fine - best of all, work was done under emissions warranty so repair and over two weeks of car rental cost me $0.

OP - have you checked wiring into ECM?

 

Emissions warranty? Is this an extended warranty you bought or is this something from the factory? Explain please

 

Yea thats like mine but through in the shocks and a couple of other meassages that arn't installed in my car. It's probably a pushed pin as discribed above in one of the control modules, and it could be any onee of them. Good lusk and I hope yours comes out like the one above!!!!

 

Nothing I purchased - apparently there is a warranty in addition to the 50 k miles drivetrain warranty. I didn't know about it and was certainly surprised.

 

You should take a close look at the wiring and the terminal at the starter selonoid. The plastic on the solenoid becomes brittle over time and the brass terminal will disloge slightly causing it to short at times (like you are seeing in the video). The wires may even be secured tightly by the brass nut on the terminal, however the terminal is possibly not making a connection where it seats.

Clutch engagement can be drawing current and that's why you are seeing the cluster dim possibly. It's not always indicative of a bad switch.

As someone mentioned, check the fuseable links as well.

 

My 2 cents as a Tech and what I've seen on these cars:

1- check the starter solenoid connection. The plastic breaks/melts causing voltage issues. If it was getting worse and now won't start at all, this is possible.

2- water ingress--- this is not a good thing. Pull the panel under the dash where you had the leak and check everything out. I think all the modules are located higher up on the left side, but you never know. Could be a ground splice point under the carpet in that area....

3- Body module and electrical connections behind passenger footwell area. Pull the carpet back and check out the fuses, relays and connectors at the body module area. There have been reports here of the carpeted cover panel resting on and putting tension on the main body module connector causing all kinds of bus communication and electrical problems.

*****And remember, a good multi-meter is your friend. Instead of guessing, check the obvious things listed and start checking for voltage at various places. If that starter terminal has a contact problem, you should have low voltage at the fuse box under the hood. Problems like this have to be attacked systematically, or you'll be at it forever. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Excellent advice that.

I recently had a no start issue which had everyone baffled including Chevy and GM tech HQ apparently. Dealer quoted nearly 3k to replace SCl, SCLCM and BCM and reprogram. Helm manual, 10 buck multimeter and a couple of afternoons in the garage had it sorted for $40.

I have noticed a trend with the Corvette brethren to always think there is an issue with the computer systems. In fact, as I found out you are much more likely to have a problem with something that gives an input TO the computer system. No one cares when Chevy want to chuck new BCM's around under warranty but it's not something you want to pay for yourself!

You could bump it, take it to chevy (or specialist) and get the codes read properly. This may help and shouldn't be much more that $100?

Be methodical and assume absolutely nothing. Do you have the wiring diagrams associated with starting systems, clutch etc? I may be able to help if not? In the long term think about a helm, it's full of lies and inaccuracies but for the electrical system it is a godsend.

My money is on a wiring issue here. A good place to start is to get those battery terminals cleaned off and screwed down nice and tight. Replace them if needed. I see a lovely 14.5v now and only had 13.2v prior to cleaning cable ends and new terminals. Then as the learned chap above stated, physically check Voltages/continuity and grounds with a DMM. As I learnt nearly all circuits can be checked for continuity from just the BCM connectors saving lots of grief.

Honestly, it's just a car despite what a lot of C6 owners think.

My order would be - Check battery, clamps, fuses and relays, all obvious wiring connectors for security, connections at alternator and in clutch pedal area (water leak?) if all this is good then study the diagram for the starting system and work methodically through it. If you get through all this and all is good then you need to see if there are any codes in ANY of the modules.

Good luck with it, don't change your SCL just yet

 

On my 90' (6 speed transmission) the clutch start switch linkage tab wore so I could not depress the clutch far enough to activate the starter selenoid. I finally (today) took a torch to it

I removed the clutch start switch just North of the steering wheel in line with the clutch pedal (corvette facing east). I also removed the linkage (about 2 inches long). I heated the switch end of the linkage with a torch and straigtened out the first L (there are two Ls on that end). I then heated cherry red the linkage end again and created a new L making the straight part of the linkage effectively 1/8 inch shorter. Then reinstalled the clutch start switch and linkage.

Works great as I can now start the engine with the clutch depressed about 1/2 the way to the floor board.

Just in case that is your issue

 

I get a CLICK!. Plus many of the other symptoms at various times (for last week and a half). Pressing the start button in various ways has worked a few times. It has a 3 day old battery, car has 68000, starter has 38000.

PS I noticed the voltage was low in the video. Is that from trying to start it and making the video etc?

 

After watching the video, that is what happened to mine when my window valet was giving me fits...and, recently, my hp tuners scanner would cause this to happen with the cluster service antilock, service fuel system, etc. A new beta from HP tuners took care if that, it was a bug in the beta as others had the same problem.

I am guessing these symptoms are indicative of a bad signal on the can bus system.

I would focus on there the water is leaking. I bet you have corrosion.

 

wow i have 2005 vette with the same issue it won't start. However the dash is ok and it doesn’t die on me. I had to send it to the mechanic 3 times already they have changed the BCA board. they have checked all the wires. Brand new battery. It's not the starter. they told me that if you remove the negative wire from the battery and place it back again it will start. they have another vette with the same issue. i will take all that I read on this issue to the mechanic and see if that might help. did the issue got resolved or is it still an issue.

 

That sounds like the steering column lock. Classic issue. Do you get a SCL message in the DIC?

 

yes sometimes. I'm sure going to mention it to the mechanic again.

 

JoeG asked me to chime in. I sold my 05 C6 a few months back, but I had the same issue several times.

I did not read the entire thread, so if I suggest something that has aready been posted, forgive me.

My shop, Horsepower Sales in Pompano Beach, FL worked diligently to resolve the issue and attempted many options including using the OBDII to see if there were any codes.

Anyway, here's the agony we (the shop and me) went through:

1. change the BCM
2. change the clutch switch
3. replace the battery
4. check the wiring harness

And, finally, the culprit was found, there was a short in the wiring under the fusebox that, on a random basis, prevented the connection to the clutch switch.

Fixed that issue and the problem disappeared.

Hope you find the problem soon. It's a real pain!

 

Thanks for chiming in Jeff! See you at the American Muscle Car series race on 3/17!

 

Its getting warmer here in New York and I want to take the car out of storage, get it fixed and drive it. I put a new battery in the car over the winter. That did not resolve the problem. I got in it today hoping it would start and it did the same thing it always does. So I decided to print out this thread and go post by post and try to find the problem. First thing I did was check the starter cable which looked new, and was not damaged or melted in anyway. Next I began checking all the wires in the engine compartment. I figured it was possible a mouse got in there at some point and chewed a wire up. Engine is clean and there were NO damaged wires under hood. Spent a good half hour checking each harness. Then I got to a post that recommended I check fuses. I found this to be unlikely but I decided to do it anyway. Upon opening the panel on the drivers side kick/fuse panel I realized that I was not the last one in there. The stereo guy had also apparently been in that area. And he left me one of his tools. Apparently he had been using a really strong magnet tool to do something under my dash. When I found the magnet it was laying on top of my fuse box stuck to the metal plate next to my fuses. I pulled the magnet off and hit the start button. The car fired right up. I really don't think this is going to be that easy. I took the car out for a 50 mile ride and shut it and started it about 8 times. Fired up every time... no cluster fail, no MIL. Is it possible this was really causing all of my problems?? Or am i destined to spend more time by the side of the road.

P.S. My stereo is not working for some reason... but I couldn't care less.

DG