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LT Headers: Slip joint or ball joint???

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 01:16 PM
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Default LT Headers: Slip joint or ball joint???

I do not want this to be a brand war. Just a discussion of LT header collector joints.

I have experience with the ball joint...They seem to seal effectively and come apart easily. They ball can be flattened if over torqued, but not too many other drawbacks. As far as power I am not sure if there is any difference.

For those with experience with slip joints, do they seal well? Can they come apart and be reinstalled easilly?

Which joint do you like better and why?
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:48 PM
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Ball and socket are more user friendly for servicing down the road. I have used both many time. It's a pain with LG's, But easy with AR's. If you are going to install and forget then it does not matter which ones you use. Both will seal fine.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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both seal well, the ball joint is just alot easier to work with. slip joints usally require a few choice words to install and especially remove.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:11 PM
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Yes, looking at the design the slip joint looks slightly more difficult to assemble and way more difficult to disassemble.

If generally speaking thats the case, than what is the advantage to using the slip joint?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Shifter6

If generally speaking thats the case, than what is the advantage to using the slip joint?
Cheaper to manufacture would be my guess.

I have Kooks.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bosco 08
Cheaper to manufacture would be my guess.

I have Kooks.
Yeah I can see that.

But what about power? Not being able to hold all the different types and compare them, it seems the slip fit might offer a smoother transition from pipe to pipe. The ball fit seems like it is designed around flexability. The taper of the ball or the gap at the socket may effect gas flow, right? Similar to comparing the factory air bellows to a straight silicone coupler.

Any thoughts?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Shifter6
Yeah I can see that.

But what about power? Not being able to hold all the different types and compare them, it seems the slip fit might offer a smoother transition from pipe to pipe. The ball fit seems like it is designed around flexability. The taper of the ball or the gap at the socket may effect gas flow, right? Similar to comparing the factory air bellows to a straight silicone coupler.

Any thoughts?


That's why we use slip fit.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 02:57 PM
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An LS3 exhaust pushes so much air that it's hard to imagine a ball/socket vs slip fit could be much of a difference at all. Even if there is a horsepower difference I can't see it being enough to make losing the convenience of the ball/socket worth it. I'd be willing to bet you couldn't feel the difference if both designs are tuned properly.
My coated Kooks have been on for over three years with zero issues I would buy them again.
Good luck with whichever set you chose.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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I have the LG super pro's and they are a Slip joint and leak like a mfer
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by speedraider
I have the LG super pro's and they are a Slip joint and leak like a mfer
Thats bad news, did you tighten them enough? I heard you need to tighten those banf clamps to the point of breaking them.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by speedraider
I have the LG super pro's and they are a Slip joint and leak like a mfer
Replace the clamps with the 3 inch band clamps. Napa stocks them for about $10.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:24 PM
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We did our headers just like we do the race cars, which are all slip fit.

We did this for a few reasons, one of which was already brought up, and that is keeping a smoother flow through the pipes.

Also for us, and many road racers, it is ground clearance. Not having a flange joint, or bolts hanging down keep the bottom of the car smoother and less of a chance for the car to get caught on something.

There does have to be expansion slots on the pipes of course to let them slide on and off...so that has to be covered when they go together, and they have to be tightened down, but I had them on my 2006 for over 60k daily driven miles in all kinds of weather with ZERO leaks along with customer cars now since 1998
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by speedraider
I have the LG super pro's and they are a Slip joint and leak like a mfer
Yours are leaking Scott? Damn, that's not good. Where do they leak?
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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There is no doubt that the ball joint makes the install much much easier. My ARH headers wouldn't have been a one man (me) install if I had to have dealt with slip fits.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 03:11 PM
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Default Comparison Summary

Slip Fit
Slightly better flow from pipe to pipe
Cheaper to manufacture
Better for clearance issues

Ball Joint
Slightly easier install
Less chance for leaks
Definetly easier to uninstall

Bottom Line....Pick your poison

Last edited by Shifter6; Mar 16, 2012 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by speedraider
I have the LG super pro's and they are a Slip joint and leak like a mfer
Thats why the compression joint is by far better than the slip fit!
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by speedraider
I have the LG super pro's and they are a Slip joint and leak like a mfer
Mine do the same. Every joint seems to dump a bunch of water when warming up the engine, so I'm assuming there's some exhaust leakage as well. And I tried everything with the supplied clamps -- the expansion slots are definitely covered, too.

As much as I like the longer primary tubes, the above problem and the extra time needed to drop the exhaust makes me wish I'd bought a different brand....
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 10:39 PM
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Wow! Thought i was the on;y person with header fitting problems. I have Stainless Works and they have been a problem from day one. My car has been at the exhaust shop 4 different occasions and $300 later, last night being the latest, I am still experiencing problems. My buddy is a tech at a local Chevy dealer and he builds LS motors on the side. He measured one of my long tubes and determined one side is 2 1/4 short than the other. I purchsed stainless clamps for $45 each. Took it to the exhaust guy and this evening I Took my daughter for ice cream and heard a loud rattling. Now, I have to go back, so he can re-weld the pipes. These headers have been a pain in the A.....S! I had these headers on my 06 and had the same issues, but I rarely drove it. I drive my 08 more now. Tired of spending unnecessary money!!
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Streetk14
Mine do the same. Every joint seems to dump a bunch of water when warming up the engine, so I'm assuming there's some exhaust leakage as well. And I tried everything with the supplied clamps -- the expansion slots are definitely covered, too.

As much as I like the longer primary tubes, the above problem and the extra time needed to drop the exhaust makes me wish I'd bought a different brand....

Kooks!
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 02:56 AM
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Ive had BOTH!!! Ive had STAINLESS WORKS headers that I installed on my C5 ZO6 that use SLIP FIT & XS Power headers with the ball and socket collector that I installed on my 06 Coupe.

Which do I prefer?????? BOTH work fine But,,,, The BALL JOINT seem to seal and work better.

Stainless Works headers are great. The XS Power Headers that I installed on my 06 Coupe worked EXCELLENT.
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