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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 05:41 AM
  #41  
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I don't want to sidetrack this discussion, but it is also worth noting that a S/C kit also adds a lot of weight (70+ lbs) to a very wrong place (front, and usually high up if it's sitting over the engine). This is what kept me from getting one installed since it upsets handling, especially turn-in, and is also what keeps ZR1 from passing Z06 w/ Z07 in some of the tracks. This is certainly not a big deal if you're not interested in road course performance.

The headers/cam route does not add weight, and might even delete a bit from front if you put on off-road headers, but I am not convinced that they are reliable enough for track duty. As far as I understand, any cam that makes significantly more HP, including the mild/executive cams, require maintenance and if you track your car a lot, you might be subject to much higher risk. I honestly don't want to take that risk, either.

If only there was a solution that did not require periodic valvetrain replacements and added valvetrain failure risk, or add (sprung) dead-weight to the worst place in the car.

Last edited by X25; Apr 4, 2012 at 05:43 AM.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 08:04 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by grady
ECS $3100 35-40RWHP package no cam/heads

http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.co...ategory_id=105

So heads/cam would need to generate more 60RWHP. I will assume at least $1500 for this install. So I am assuming $4500-$5000 for 100RWHP cai/heads/cam/headers and $8500-$9000 for the supercharger.
Definitely don't need heads to get around 100rwhp gain.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 08:24 AM
  #43  
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Bubba shops - plenty of them round here ' ... they come equipped "not stripped" with beards, mullet hair-do's, no teeth, dirty patched jeans, muscle T shirts, tattered Dodge Ram hats, oily rag hanging out back pocket, while chewing tobacco and spitting it into an empty Pabst blue ribbon can -

Top shelf mechanics fer' sure - you can trust your $65,000 car to them -

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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 08:29 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by vettro
Bubba shops - plenty of them round here ' ... they come equipped "not stripped" with beards, mullet hair-do's, no teeth, dirty patched jeans, muscle T shirts, tattered Dodge Ram hats, oily rag hanging out back pocket, while chewing tobacco and spitting it into an empty Pabst blue ribbon can -

Top shelf mechanics fer' sure - you can trust your $65,000 car to them -

What about all of the $25k dollar corvettes from 05-07?

Even new most corvettes won't be $65k.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
What about all of the $25k dollar corvettes from 05-07?

Even new most corvettes won't be $65k.
Well start pricing a 2012 or 13 Vette add some extras 3LT, GS - you'll be @ $65,000 before you know it
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 12:31 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by vettro
Bubba shops - plenty of them round here ' ... they come equipped "not stripped" with beards, mullet hair-do's, no teeth, dirty patched jeans, muscle T shirts, tattered Dodge Ram hats, oily rag hanging out back pocket, while chewing tobacco and spitting it into an empty Pabst blue ribbon can -

Top shelf mechanics fer' sure - you can trust your $65,000 car to them -

you just might be surprised what those guys are capable of doing and how reliable and trustworthy they are. Check their reputation first. The reason they are so "cheap" is because they don't work for someone else, they don't have overhead like the big name shops, because they don't want the headaches.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 01:16 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Ozer
I don't want to sidetrack this discussion, but it is also worth noting that a S/C kit also adds a lot of weight (70+ lbs) to a very wrong place (front, and usually high up if it's sitting over the engine). This is what kept me from getting one installed since it upsets handling, especially turn-in, and is also what keeps ZR1 from passing Z06 w/ Z07 in some of the tracks. This is certainly not a big deal if you're not interested in road course performance.

The headers/cam route does not add weight, and might even delete a bit from front if you put on off-road headers, but I am not convinced that they are reliable enough for track duty. As far as I understand, any cam that makes significantly more HP, including the mild/executive cams, require maintenance and if you track your car a lot, you might be subject to much higher risk. I honestly don't want to take that risk, either.

If only there was a solution that did not require periodic valvetrain replacements and added valvetrain failure risk, or add (sprung) dead-weight to the worst place in the car.
There is some validity to this. I just added coilovers with fairly stiff springs to compensate for the weight of dual intercoolers and extra coolant. On the street you really don't reach speeds that it makes much of a difference to be honest. However, I'm not a fan of an F/I car for a road course. I take the TT C6 on the road course on occasion but limit the time/ laps. Personally I would stay NA if I was planning on spending any significant time on a road course. Esecially if you live in an area where temps get pretty high.

Last edited by DSOMC6; Apr 4, 2012 at 01:19 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 04:53 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by CarBoy
you just might be surprised what those guys are capable of doing and how reliable and trustworthy they are. Check their reputation first. The reason they are so "cheap" is because they don't work for someone else, they don't have overhead like the big name shops, because they don't want the headaches.


There are a lot of good "bubba" mechanics and machinists who are not nationally renown but are good people and have been involved in racing or motorsports of some kind their entire lives; and are very good. Just have to know the reputation of any shop before committing; some guys have been burned by so-called reputable forum vendors too.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 05:01 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by ctusser


There are a lot of good "bubba" mechanics and machinists who are not nationally renown but are good people and have been involved in racing or motorsports of some kind their entire lives; and are very good. Just have to know the reputation of any shop before committing; some guys have been burned by so-called reputable forum vendors too.
If only they had a huge tattoo on their forehead identifying them as a "good" Bubba vs a "bad" Bubba. Same goes with the "professional" high dollar shops and the dealers.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 05:26 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by CarBoy
you just might be surprised what those guys are capable of doing and how reliable and trustworthy they are. Check their reputation first. The reason they are so "cheap" is because they don't work for someone else, they don't have overhead like the big name shops, because they don't want the headaches.
Originally Posted by ctusser


There are a lot of good "bubba" mechanics and machinists who are not nationally renown but are good people and have been involved in racing or motorsports of some kind their entire lives; and are very good. Just have to know the reputation of any shop before committing; some guys have been burned by so-called reputable forum vendors too.
Originally Posted by JoesC5
If only they had a huge tattoo on their forehead identifying them as a "good" Bubba vs a "bad" Bubba. Same goes with the "professional" high dollar shops and the dealers.

Great post carboy and ctusser and joe your ignorance is annoying.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 05:31 PM
  #51  
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