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05...Rear Diff options?

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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
This is the best advice.

If you need more room for stuff (you shouldn't) you could always remove your passenger seat. It will give you 53 lbs weight savings and plenty of room for stuff.
with the seat out i can fit my big craftsman floor jack 5 gallon vp fuels can filled with 93 sunoco both drag radials tools lap top tq wrench, 4 homemade 2x12 2 step ramps to drive on so the jack goes under the cradles jumpbox inverter for the lap top 2 dozen doughnuts phone and charger pen helmet fire jacket two coats
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 09:51 AM
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two dozen doughnuts?!?
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
two dozen doughnuts?!?
well the donuts are gone by the time i enter the track i dont drink coffee alcohol or smoke, but cake sticky buns strudel pie, everyday
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
well the donuts are gone by the time i enter the track i dont drink coffee alcohol or smoke, but cake sticky buns strudel pie, everyday
LOL just busting your chops pal.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
LOL just busting your chops pal.
i might have just beat Norm, i wonder if 2 dozen doughnuts is worth .006 at least a tie
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 03:00 PM
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There won't be room in the car for the wheels. My father who is 6"2' will be with me for the trip and because I get the boot if it goes faster than 11.50 with out a bar I will have to put one in. At this point I've decided on the RSD bolt in 6pt. I'd rather not have one but in there because it will eventually hurt the resale of the car but oh well. I also plan on adding the RSD line lock kit and some sort of shift light.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by trayack
There won't be room in the car for the wheels. My father who is 6"2' will be with me for the trip and because I get the boot if it goes faster than 11.50 with out a bar I will have to put one in. At this point I've decided on the RSD bolt in 6pt. I'd rather not have one but in there because it will eventually hurt the resale of the car but oh well. I also plan on adding the RSD line lock kit and some sort of shift light.
Wow would I hate to put a bar in the car. I've always resisted putting a bar in my street car as I don't want that piece of steel next to my head...a fender bender turns into a potential deadly problem...unless you want to wear a helmet all the time, which I don't (can't mess up my fine coif ).

What is your power level & experience? You might not be below 11.5...and, if your car is an 08 or newer, the new NHRA rule is 9.99. Whether the tracks follow that or not is the question.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 04:07 PM
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It's the car in my sig. 2005, currently just over 600 at the wheels at the moment. Meth injection when it gets the clutch so maybe a bit more. Made about 20 to 30 runs in my mustang years ago. I do ok behind the wheel generally. I hate to put the bar in there just because of the resale value downgrade. My mustang hadn't 10pt cage so I won't be too thrown off by the 6pt. Ill just remove the door bars anyway on the street.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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My concen is not now to get the tires there, but how to get home if you break something.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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My friend who had a similar setup with his 600 rwhp supercharged 05 ran around 11.5's if I recall, he didn't race much and didn't know how to launch so he launched easy.

If it was me I'd just go for the life experience and not put in a bar. If you get to a picky track and are breaking 11.5's you can always slow down. A bar in a street car is not safe if you ask me. Automakers quit putting steel next to drivers heads back in 1968...not sure how the nhra knows better than the manufacturers.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by trayack
It's the car in my sig. 2005, currently just over 600 at the wheels at the moment. Meth injection when it gets the clutch so maybe a bit more. Made about 20 to 30 runs in my mustang years ago. I do ok behind the wheel generally. I hate to put the bar in there just because of the resale value downgrade. My mustang hadn't 10pt cage so I won't be too thrown off by the 6pt. Ill just remove the door bars anyway on the street.
How long have you had that much power in your 05? Mine lasted a few years but the diff can go when you "least" expect it.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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I bought the car off of here actually, almost 3 years ago now I guess. It doesn't get driven that often and I don't beat the crap out of it. Currently 24k on it, about 7k with the blower I think.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by trayack
I bought the car off of here actually, almost 3 years ago now I guess. It doesn't get driven that often and I don't beat the crap out of it. Currently 24k on it, about 7k with the blower I think.
Mine has less than 14000 (most with blower) and has been driven spirited but has never been beat on but this is what "minimal" wheel spin can do.


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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by trayack
After searching I have a bit of a question. Why is the Zip adapter with bolt and seals just over $400, while the RPM adapter kit is $1000+ ? http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/differentials
I don't think that is what they are saying. They are saying for that amount of money you can upgrade your 05 with the purchase of their diff.
What you are quoting from us is the actual housing for the tranny that is needed for the install. You are still going to need the diff. Your 05 diff will not bolt up, that is what you are replacing. It is also not good as a core towards a 06-up model. So you are going to be buying a diff, plus the core charge. What is looks like RPM is telling you that if you buy there diff for $1795, turn in your core an pay an upgrade charge of $1038 you also get the parts needed for the install.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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Ahh haaa, thanks. Regardless I'm not going to make the swap at this point. I just simply don't have the cash to spend. I'll do the 17s and drag radials instead. The car will be getting a clutch, meth, and an RSD roll bar as well. Wish I could make the conversion, just not in the cards at the moment. If it breaks, it breaks.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by trayack
Ahh haaa, thanks. Regardless I'm not going to make the swap at this point. I just simply don't have the cash to spend. I'll do the 17s and drag radials instead. The car will be getting a clutch, meth, and an RSD roll bar as well. Wish I could make the conversion, just not in the cards at the moment. If it breaks, it breaks.
The downside is when the diff breaks it more than likey takes out the trans mainshaft.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by saplumr
The downside is when the diff breaks it more than likey takes out the trans mainshaft.
And there in lies the problem. The trans can get expensive when you are also adding the main shaft to it.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 06:43 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by trayack
Ahh haaa, thanks. Regardless I'm not going to make the swap at this point. I just simply don't have the cash to spend. I'll do the 17s and drag radials instead. The car will be getting a clutch, meth, and an RSD roll bar as well. Wish I could make the conversion, just not in the cards at the moment. If it breaks, it breaks.
I think if you don't launch at 5500 at wide open throttle like I do, you will be ok. You need to practice slipping the clutch and letting the clutch take the abuse.

You need to look at www.rangeracceleration.com clutch care and do that. Also, you need to remove your clutch pedal spring. If you don't do these things I guarantee your clutch pedal is going to stick to the floor on your first 1-2 shift. You can remove the pedal spring with a screwdriver, I've removed a dozen of them at the track. I carry a screwdriver for this purpose in my cubby. It's greasy, put a paper towel on the floor or else you'll have a grease stain.

Originally Posted by saplumr
The downside is when the diff breaks it more than likey takes out the trans mainshaft.
This is very true. Every one of them that I've seen break either breaks or bends (in my case) the mainshaft. But I made 301 hard passes on mine before it broke.

Originally Posted by J.Abbott
And there in lies the problem. The trans can get expensive when you are also adding the main shaft to it.
Amen to this. It's a complete trans rebuild. I hate spending money on repairs. Don't mind at all spending on Mods!
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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I will be running a MCleod RXT or RST at that point. I'll take a look at that site. I'd love to replace the rear but I simply can't right now, it's the chance I take. I still plan to leave off idle and slip the clutch, we'll just have to see how it goes in September I guess!
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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The good thing about my Spec super twin carbon, the more I slip the stronger it seems to get. A good clutch can be very forgiving or driveline destroying depending on how you apply it. Good luck with your new clutch and hopefully it all works out....at least for a while longer.
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