I agree, I think my stock clutch is key to my longevity. It slips and takes the abuse.

Trayak why are you getting a new clutch?

 

To the OP ... listen to Joe G. he knows his sh*t when it comes to launching a manual car...

I have an 05 (A4) with a few mods, but stock rear end (3.15) I use Nitto Drag Radials 555 size (305/35x18) I have been drag racing it since 2008 .. and so far my BEST ET is 11.61 @ 118 mph..

AND I have NEVER HAD ANY WHEEL HOP I am using an FTI 2800 converter and I'm sure I can get into the low 11 sec zone but several things are keeping me from doing it..

1. I need a roll bar if quicker than 11.5
2. I would need a 3600 or higher converter, & that means MT drag radials & they wear a lot faster than the Nitto I'm now using...
3. My 60' time are 1.6x so why push my luck...

Last week I won the GM vs Mopar shootout at Atco race track and I went 6 rounds + 3 time shots with NO wheel Hop and I ran 11.62 - 11.64 on any run that I did not lift ...

So I'm getting my consistency, + I might get a full yr of use out of the Nitto DR's and I won't have to spend the $$ for a roll bar..

Another thing is Englishtown is going to have a mixed "Index" race where you dial 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.5 On a Pro Tree... The way my car is set up now I should be damn close to the 12.0 in the summer heat, and if I do a few minor changes I'll be able to run the 11.5 in cool weather... (the best of both worlds)

Bottom line I think I just have to change my intake manifold to a FAST.. from my stock ported LS1 that I am now using...

 

I had a FAST 90 put on when I had the blower put on 8 years ago. When I turned up the boost and added meth they were afraid of it with no burst panels so it was removed. Bottom line....wish I would have overuled and kept it on.

 

I know this has already been discussed in the thread, but here is my experience with the 05 diff:

1. It broke in 3rd gear at peak torque ~440.
2. It didn't bend the mainshaft.
3. I was still on stock clutch at that point.
4. My '06 diff conversion was about $1200, and I am really happy I went with it over the c5 stuff, if for no reason other than ease of install.

 

It's getting a clutch because I'm shocked it's still holding at this power level. I don't want to have issues mid drag week and kick myself for not changing it.

 

I understand that.

You would have sticking to the floor issues with your stock clutch if you didn't do what I mentioned above. If you do what I mention I don't think you would, my friend mentioned above ran his stock clutch for 5 years at your power level doing infrequent track events and was fine. He followed Ranger and my instructions.

Since you have some time, I would suggest that before you spend any money you buy drag radials and rims and go practice launching on a parking lot or deserted road (to the extent you can find one on Nantucket!). You can get an app for your phone to tell you 0-60 times, and you can work out your launches before you go. It think that would be the best thing you can do to keep from embarrassing yourself in front of everyone. I know when I got my first vette in 2002 after years away from the strip, I was the 2.3 60 foot king, barely breaking into the 13's. Took me a while to learn what I can do today.

I also think a wise investment would be a line lock. Easy to install and cheap. Hurst Roll control - forum vendors sell a bolt on kit for Vettes. If you are careful when installing you won't even need to bleed the brakes. It will make your burnout a lot easier. I can do it without as I'm practiced...but if you're new, you stand a decent chance of botching the burnout, then being nervous at the tree....leg shaking...pop the clutch with cold tires when you meant to slip it...wheelhop ensues and you leave your pinion on the track.

I'd get tires and practice if I was you. Practice, more than parts, will keep this from happening. Without practice you can do this with any parts. Particularly if you put a new clutch in there that is "on-off"...you're going to shock the rear end and that's not good. You want a clutch that will slip in the launch process.

Bottom line, you don't want Hot Rod to print this picture with your name in the caption.

 

I will get the RSD Line lock kit, already shopped around. I'll get a set of repro's to match my wheels as they aren't any heavier or more expensive than the C5 Z06 wheels. What size mickeys should I get? Once the new clutch is in I plan to practice a lot.

 

275/40/17

Try practicing before you get a new clutch, after you do the ranger method and the pedal spring removal.

You might not need a clutch. Look at all mine has been through, 72000 daily driving stop and go miles and 494 launches from 5000+. Still gets 1.4's at will.

 

To the OP. My car would have broken ages ago if not for Joe_G. I call Joe first with questions. I would consider the advice being given. Good luck with your endeavor.
Jeff

 

Thanks for the props buddy! I don't know that I've prevented your car from breaking...but I am not bashful about posting my opinion and trying to save people money.

My wife tells me all the time to mind my business so I do at home..and I mind other people's business on the Forum! Safer that way.

 

Ok, so things have gone all over the place this week. Just wanted to thank all of you guys for posting and helping me through this. I finally made the discision to swap in a C5z diff. Some say its not as strong as a C6 06+ but its about $2500 cheaper all said and done, which is enough for me to take the risk. Its sure as hell stronger than whats in there now. I'd love to put something bulletproof in there but I need to spend the money (more than I planned for) elsewhere in the vehicle. (Clutch, Meth, Rollbar, Wheels/Drag Radials).

I'll keep you guys posted. Once the ball gets rolling I'll probably start a Road to Drag Week thread or something.

- Travis