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If i gain 1 point in compression for 11:1 to 12:1 how much HP\TQ could I realistically expect in a 06A6 ls2 motor that makes 485\485 now?
If I go up in cam size from a 234\242 586\588 112Lsa to a 610\610, 242\248, 110-112 LSA how much would could be relatically gained in just cam swap?
My goal is to hit 525-550RWHP & 510+TQ N\A and run high 10's @125+ in Tucson at SIR which always see's 5000-7000+ DA. Is this realistic?
Is there anything else I can do to get there as in boltons, without nitrous or boost? I already have ported tb,ls7 K&N intake and maf, fast 102 ported by vengance, trickflow 225cncd heads, 1 3\4 B&B headers ,3 inch x pipe no cats, and exhaust, 25% UD pulley, EWP, E85, 3600 yank (prob hurts number a lil), dewitts radiator, and 160 tstat.
Could I polish the cncd heads to remove the cnc tracks to flow better? I also heard you could back cut or back lash the valves to flow more? Port match the heads and fast intake? any ideas at all would be appreciated!
I have no idea to answer your question but I do wonder if going FI in the beginning would of been easier....for one thing you would already be there power wise.
Drivability is going to suck with the bigger cam, if this pertains to you as a DD.
If i gain 1 point in compression for 11:1 to 12:1 how much HP\TQ could I realistically expect in a 06A6 ls2 motor that makes 485\485 now?
If I go up in cam size from a 234\242 586\588 112Lsa to a 610\610, 242\248, 110-112 LSA how much would could be relatically gained in just cam swap?
My goal is to hit 525-550RWHP & 510+TQ N\A and run high 10's @125+ in Tucson at SIR which always see's 5000-7000+ DA. Is this realistic?
Is there anything else I can do to get there as in boltons, without nitrous or boost? I already have ported tb,ls7 K&N intake and maf, fast 102 ported by vengance, trickflow 225cncd heads, 1 3\4 B&B headers ,3 inch x pipe no cats, and exhaust, 25% UD pulley, EWP, E85, 3600 yank (prob hurts number a lil), dewitts radiator, and 160 tstat.
Could I polish the cncd heads to remove the cnc tracks to flow better? I also heard you could back cut or back lash the valves to flow more? Port match the heads and fast intake? any ideas at all would be appreciated!
I have read about that and would like to hear from members who have done that, with before and after HP/TQ gain.
The only thing I see as a problem with your current mods is that K&N intake/filter.
Swap it for a Vararam. Heat is your enemy and 3000' elevation is not doing you any favors either.
Wild Horse Pass Raceway Park (aka Firebird elev. 1149'), will be opening in October. When they get their website and schedule posted, plan a night test 'n tune trip for sometime in Nov. The DA should be in the 1500-2000 range. I run 11.0x - 11.1x in that DA with a whole lot less mods. If you PM me then, I'll meet you there.
The only thing I see as a problem with your current mods is that K&N intake/filter.
Swap it for a Vararam. Heat is your enemy and 3000' elevation is not doing you any favors either.
Wild Horse Pass Raceway Park (aka Firebird elev. 1149'), will be opening in October. When they get their website and schedule posted, plan a night test 'n tune trip for sometime in Nov. The DA should be in the 1500-2000 range. I run 11.0x - 11.1x in that DA with a whole lot less mods. If you PM me then, I'll meet you there.
Ok I will do. I actually had the varam before and air filter kept collapsing, along with with vortex that i had as well. this is literally the the 3rd or 4th intake i have tried and the (ls7 version) K&N seems to work the best? it has the biggest intake tunnel of all and i just swapped out ls2 maf to ls3\7 and it seems to run better. I couldn't run a air ram intake anymore even if i wanted to now because i have two of the biggest B&M 29,200 coolers for oil and trans on front of condesner. What is wrong with the air filter?
That cam change will most likely just make your mid range more soggy and you'll pick up a little up top. You might not like the way it feels though.
I would have your FAST ported and ported well. Beyond that bump your compression to 12.5 to 13:1 since you're runnin E85 and get a 107R or 103 halltech.
You're scraping at the bottom of the barrel and I really doubt you're going to pull ~40rwhp out of what you've got.
The 1.75" headers might be holding you back a bit but its not proven 100% of the time going up will yield a gain.
That cam change will most likely just make your mid range more soggy and you'll pick up a little up top. You might not like the way it feels though.
I would have your FAST ported and ported well. Beyond that bump your compression to 12.5 to 13:1 since you're runnin E85 and get a 107R or 103 halltech.
You're scraping at the bottom of the barrel and I really doubt you're going to pull ~40rwhp out of what you've got.
The 1.75" headers might be holding you back a bit but its not proven 100% of the time going up will yield a gain.
Ya I figured I wouldn't be able to but it was my goal and I like to try my best to meet my goals when I shoot for a goal. I decided to let this machine shop do his final touches! Hopefully the compression bump of a point and some touch ups to the heads, tb, intake port match get me to at least 500\500 to the wheels and i will call it a day wheater I get there or not! This is of course on a mustang dyno that I got these numbers from. The 102 fast I have is already ported and by a reputable company called Vengance Racing. I paid them $300 or $400 I cant remeber exactly extra for them to port it!
according to what other people have said to me in the past that a mustang dyno read alot lower then dynojet. maybe after this head rework, port match, better head blending. etc etc and i do make 500\500 on mustang dyno and redyno on a dyno jet i might actually make 525\510.....?
Opinions?
Ok I will do. I actually had the varam before and air filter kept collapsing, along with with vortex that i had as well. this is literally the the 3rd or 4th intake i have tried and the (ls7 version) K&N seems to work the best? it has the biggest intake tunnel of all and i just swapped out ls2 maf to ls3\7 and it seems to run better. I couldn't run a air ram intake anymore even if i wanted to now because i have two of the biggest B&M 29,200 coolers for oil and trans on front of condesner. What is wrong with the air filter?
You can cool the A6 with a much smaller B&M mounted horizontally in the area at the bottom of the radiator. I'm using the 70273 and it works so good, I have to block off nearly half in the winter just to get the temps up to 150.
Cooling the oil is only good if you're running a road course, so get it out of there.
Use an Amsoil EAA240 air filter in the Vararam. It filters better and won't collapse. It's not size that you need, it's the cooler outside air. The Vararam will flow more than your engine can take.
Don't get yourself fixated on a HP number. Dynos are only a tuning tool. There are no bonus points on a timeslip for a killer dyno sheet.
I have 2 friends here in Phx with cammed LS2 A6 cars. One runs low to mid- 11's and the other runs high 10's. Come play with us this winter.
You can cool the A6 with a much smaller B&M mounted horizontally in the area at the bottom of the radiator. I'm using the 70273 and it works so good, I have to block off nearly half in the winter just to get the temps up to 150.
Cooling the oil is only good if you're running a road course, so get it out of there.
Use an Amsoil EAA240 air filter in the Vararam. It filters better and won't collapse. It's not size that you need, it's the cooler outside air. The Vararam will flow more than your engine can take.
Don't get yourself fixated on a HP number. Dynos are only a tuning tool. There are no bonus points on a timeslip for a killer dyno sheet.
I have 2 friends here in Phx with cammed LS2 A6 cars. One runs low to mid- 11's and the other runs high 10's. Come play with us this winter.
Good info.
The compression bump should be worth ~15. The bigger cam might be worth the same on the dyno, but won't necessarily equate to a faster track time as it may not make more average power. Without a bigger stall you wouldn't take advantage of the increase in power at higher rpms imho. Have you tried propping the radiator shroud like a vette air effect to get cooler IAT?
Now if you do both in conjuction it might work well as the increased compression will offset the later IVC of the bigger cam and maintain lowend power. The increased lift would take better advantage of the ported heads too.
You can cool the A6 with a much smaller B&M mounted horizontally in the area at the bottom of the radiator. I'm using the 70273 and it works so good, I have to block off nearly half in the winter just to get the temps up to 150.
Cooling the oil is only good if you're running a road course, so get it out of there.
Use an Amsoil EAA240 air filter in the Vararam. It filters better and won't collapse. It's not size that you need, it's the cooler outside air. The Vararam will flow more than your engine can take.
Don't get yourself fixated on a HP number. Dynos are only a tuning tool. There are no bonus points on a timeslip for a killer dyno sheet.
I have 2 friends here in Phx with cammed LS2 A6 cars. One runs low to mid- 11's and the other runs high 10's. Come play with us this winter.
I will definately meet this year! My oil was running at 250-260 in the city after the stroker kit and would even hotter if I did some quick WOT passes so I added one for ease of mind. It now runs at 220-230 even in this hot wheather we have now (110*). The highway is a different story, It drops to as low as 185-190 if driving for more than 30 minutes.
I actually only took one head off today and decided against high compression and and extra blending of heads/milling. Im just going to fix the spark plug cross thread and save my money up for a blower if I want some more power. Some times I get a little carried away with modding
I had vengeance port my FAST, then Darin Morgan made more finishing touches to get the most out of it. It's not proven that any improvements were made but that's what I had done.