Bought a flooder, having a few electrical issues
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Norman OK
You may have bought flood cars before, but these cars are loaded with electronics and sensors. The ones outside the body MAY be ok, but the stuff inside is not designed to get wet, I suppose.
I do not see how water should have gotten into the engine.
Please do keep us posted on your progress. Most of us do not have your courage. It would be interesting to know what you have to disassemble, clean, and/or replace to get the car running reliably.
I do not see how water should have gotten into the engine.
Please do keep us posted on your progress. Most of us do not have your courage. It would be interesting to know what you have to disassemble, clean, and/or replace to get the car running reliably.
Last edited by wolfgang896; Jul 4, 2013 at 05:05 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: no. jersey Photo by Stro
St. Jude Donor '08
Wolfgang, I don't think folks here are able or willing to answer your question. Shop manual and tracing circuits is the best answer you are going to get.
Beyond the basic suggestions of making sure everything is clean and dry I don't know of any c6 techs (experienced and competent corvette dealer techs) on this forum. Which is the type of person I would think would be able to provide the most assistance.
Car looks really nice from the pictures you posted and I know you'll work out the issues quickly. Keep us posted!
Also, there is no reason for folks to fight about this or that on these forums. Some folks dicks grow to **** star status behind a keyboard and its really not worth the time and energy to argue on a Internet forum.
Beyond the basic suggestions of making sure everything is clean and dry I don't know of any c6 techs (experienced and competent corvette dealer techs) on this forum. Which is the type of person I would think would be able to provide the most assistance.
Car looks really nice from the pictures you posted and I know you'll work out the issues quickly. Keep us posted!
Also, there is no reason for folks to fight about this or that on these forums. Some folks dicks grow to **** star status behind a keyboard and its really not worth the time and energy to argue on a Internet forum.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Sorry, but I took it as sarcasm. It had nothing to do about my question. Im well aware of the bad stigma a flood car has. I can promise you though, if I parked this car next to a non flooded clean title car you would never know it was ever flooded.
As for the price, you can buy a light flooded car like this one for less than half of the book value.
As for the price, you can buy a light flooded car like this one for less than half of the book value.
I don't see his posts anymore as I put him on my ignore list but I see them if someone quotes them. A broken record he is. I hope he has someone at home that loves him cause he's made no friends here.Back on topic -
I think it would be a great investment for you to get a scanner for this car with the GM specific codes. I have HP Tuners that does a great job scanning - the scanning only option isn't too expensive on their website. Only downside is HP Tuners won't read BCM codes and you may need to read those someday.
Perhaps someone will chime in with a good BCM code reader? I'd be interested. You can always get a Tech II but they aren't cheap even on ebay.
I had odd electrical problems with a truck I had - turns out the windshield was leaking on the fuse box. It looked fine to look at but when I unbolted it from the firewall it was corroded behind. I cleaned it and had years of trouble free service thereafter. I would suggest that you remove the fusebox in the passenger footboard and see what's behind it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,220
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From: Sugarhill Ga
if you have access to some diagnostic tools it will make your life easier, if not you are going to have to hunt and peck. since the car runs (amazing) I would pull the seats and carpet out. look at the fuse boxes and any module that may have been submerged. sometimes just letting the stuff dry out will allow everything to start working, but the longer the stuff remains energized while wet the more damage can occur. get yourself some battery terminal cleaner to dissolve rust and compressed air to dry stuff out. while the carpet is out let it dry out so you don't end up having mold problems in the car. don't forget there are 2 modules inside the passenger front fender liner, 1 is the computer to the car.
Last edited by truckplay; Jul 4, 2013 at 07:22 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Norman OK
if you have access to some diagnostic tools it will make your life easier, if not you are going to have to hunt and peck. since the car runs (amazing) I would pull the seats and carpet out. look at the fuse boxes and any module that may have been submerged. sometimes just letting the stuff dry out will allow everything to start working, but the longer the stuff remains energized while wet the more damage can occur. get yourself some battery terminal cleaner to dissolve rust and compressed air to dry stuff out. while the carpet is out let it dry out so you don't end up having mold problems in the car. don't forget there are 2 modules inside the passenger front fender liner, 1 is the computer to the car.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
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From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I have pulled the seats and carpet already. The seats are in nice shape and the carpet dried out completely today. I bought some industrial mold killer and soaked the padding really good. After it drys out I'm hoping there will be no moldy smell. If it still smells after that I will remove the padding from the carpet and replace it with dynamat.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
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Sorry if I came across as a nay slayer? That was not my intention.
I have dealt with a couple low flood fresh water salvage cars and both were a real challenge.
I ended up with wicking problem which over time caused the wiring to build resistance which messed up both the high and low speed can bus lines. I ended up having to replace everything.
I hope you don't have that kind of luck.
you are in a situation in which you can learn a great deal about how the vette works.
you can do it...you may learn a few new cuss words in the process, but in the end it will be worth it.
I have dealt with a couple low flood fresh water salvage cars and both were a real challenge.
I ended up with wicking problem which over time caused the wiring to build resistance which messed up both the high and low speed can bus lines. I ended up having to replace everything.
I hope you don't have that kind of luck.
you are in a situation in which you can learn a great deal about how the vette works.
you can do it...you may learn a few new cuss words in the process, but in the end it will be worth it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 12,938
Likes: 784
From: Huntsville AL
Good luck, and keep us posted!
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That's right, you can be the golden exception to the rule, what with the lack of electrical issues and all.
Luckily, the price difference in price can be offset by the lack of potential problems, the clear carfax, and the fact that you don't have to worry about a flood vehicle.
Luckily, the price difference in price can be offset by the lack of potential problems, the clear carfax, and the fact that you don't have to worry about a flood vehicle.
Now yes some flood cars can get expensive, if it was a salt water flood and it has been sitting for awhile than I would probably write that one off, but fresh water is completely different and same with a salt flood that was immediately washed down.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Norman OK
Thought I would give an update on the car. I didn't have any luck cleaning the bcm, so I am going to order one this week. I figured even if its not the problem, it would be good to have one as a spare since it did get wet
While the carpet is drying out,I went ahead and ordered some dynamat. I put the drivers seat back in the car and have been driving it around to see if any other bugs would show up.
The car runs and drives like a dream, but I also discovered since the doors quit working, the electric top and fuel door quit working too. So, I am hoping it is all tied in with the bcm.
While the carpet is drying out,I went ahead and ordered some dynamat. I put the drivers seat back in the car and have been driving it around to see if any other bugs would show up.
The car runs and drives like a dream, but I also discovered since the doors quit working, the electric top and fuel door quit working too. So, I am hoping it is all tied in with the bcm.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Norman OK
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Hard to tell from the pics, but it seems water was 1/2 way up those fuse panels.
If I was you I'd unbolt them and clean the back side of them very carefully to get rid of corrosion...I am speaking from experience here with my truck, the backside had corrosion and I cleaned it and got years of service out of the truck with no problems.
You have nothing to lose but your time...
I suspect one of those relays is for the power windows (but don't quote me, I might be wrong)...if the windows don't work the power top won't work either. You have to index the windows for the top to work, and if the windows don't work, you can't index them so top won't work.
I think there are also door control units in each door, you should probably pull the door panels and speakers and look around in there for corrosion.
Please keep us posted, it's fun for us (not for you I bet) to follow you on your journey.
If I was you I'd unbolt them and clean the back side of them very carefully to get rid of corrosion...I am speaking from experience here with my truck, the backside had corrosion and I cleaned it and got years of service out of the truck with no problems.
You have nothing to lose but your time...
I suspect one of those relays is for the power windows (but don't quote me, I might be wrong)...if the windows don't work the power top won't work either. You have to index the windows for the top to work, and if the windows don't work, you can't index them so top won't work.
I think there are also door control units in each door, you should probably pull the door panels and speakers and look around in there for corrosion.
Please keep us posted, it's fun for us (not for you I bet) to follow you on your journey.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Norman OK
Hard to tell from the pics, but it seems water was 1/2 way up those fuse panels.
If I was you I'd unbolt them and clean the back side of them very carefully to get rid of corrosion...I am speaking from experience here with my truck, the backside had corrosion and I cleaned it and got years of service out of the truck with no problems.
You have nothing to lose but your time...
I suspect one of those relays is for the power windows (but don't quote me, I might be wrong)...if the windows don't work the power top won't work either. You have to index the windows for the top to work, and if the windows don't work, you can't index them so top won't work.
I think there are also door control units in each door, you should probably pull the door panels and speakers and look around in there for corrosion.
Please keep us posted, it's fun for us (not for you I bet) to follow you on your journey.
If I was you I'd unbolt them and clean the back side of them very carefully to get rid of corrosion...I am speaking from experience here with my truck, the backside had corrosion and I cleaned it and got years of service out of the truck with no problems.
You have nothing to lose but your time...
I suspect one of those relays is for the power windows (but don't quote me, I might be wrong)...if the windows don't work the power top won't work either. You have to index the windows for the top to work, and if the windows don't work, you can't index them so top won't work.
I think there are also door control units in each door, you should probably pull the door panels and speakers and look around in there for corrosion.
Please keep us posted, it's fun for us (not for you I bet) to follow you on your journey.
Last edited by wolfgang896; Jul 6, 2013 at 04:06 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
I agree. I'd take all that apart under te pass side floor and check everything. You may find rust. Sometimes tightening bolts on connections helps make a better contact. Everything is replaceable and good for you for taking that on. You'll get it. I have to ask. How much did you pay for it? Good pics. I've never seen a flood car before. I think I'd take that on. Trace one circuit at a time. Perhaps you'll find one main problem spot doing it that way. I want to follow your progress too!
Last edited by vetten76; Jul 6, 2013 at 06:58 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,401
Likes: 52
From: Norman OK
Hey hello from Norman, hope it's getting dried out. I have the service manuals for my 08 if you need t ok look at those let me know. you are now a member of the Non Club Club of Oklahoma we hang out in the southwest section here lots of smart vette guys who are will to help if you need it.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 65
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From: Norman OK
Hey hello from Norman, hope it's getting dried out. I have the service manuals for my 08 if you need t ok look at those let me know. you are now a member of the Non Club Club of Oklahoma we hang out in the southwest section here lots of smart vette guys who are will to help if you need it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,401
Likes: 52
From: Norman OK
