I did some interior work on my car, which involved removing the dash, pulling out and fixing the HUD, and replacing the stock radio with an aftermarket unit.

Since I put it back together, I've been experiencing a weird problem. I can get into the car without issues (it correctly unlocks the door if I have the fob in the pocket). But it won't let me start it unless I dangle the fob right next to the receiver (behind AC vents at the top of the console). Otherwise it clicks and says "no fob detected". Once it's on, I can drive but the "vehicle locked" instrument panel light stays lit.

I suspected a fuse problem but I went through the fuse box and all fuses seem to be fine. Besides, the emergency light button, which sits on the same harness as the receiver, is working fine. There are two plugs plugged into the receiver from the front, there's nothing apparently wrong with them.

Any idea what could be wrong?

Possibly related question. I said that there are two plugs in the receiver; however, there are three outlets, and one is empty. I think it's by design (it looks the same as in this picture http://www.kawal.net/center%20wiring%20harnesses.jpg ) but I'm still wondering what the third outlet is for. In addition, there is an extra plug in the center console harnesses that does not seem to go anywhere. It's small, white, has 8 holes but only 2 wires going in (one is red and black). Does it have something to do with navigation, perhaps? (my car had a CD changer but no navigation.)

 

Managed to unscrew and pull out the receiver. In addition to the three outlets I saw before, there is a fourth small round outlet that looks like it was designed to fit an antenna. It's possible that it got detached when I was taking off the dash. There are no visible wires that fit the outlet within one foot radius of the receiver.

I think I'll need to take off the dash again ...

 

I had a similar issue recently. Changed out the FOB battery and had to reprogram both FOB 1 an 2 to correct the situation. Will it start with the FOB in the glovebox slot?

 

You do not need to reprogram fobs after changing the battery. Memory is stored in the car not the fob. Hamster did you try replacing fob batteries?

 

Yes, it starts with the fob in the glovebox slot, and yes, I tried to change the battery, it did not have any effect. I don't think it has anything to do with the fob battery, because the fob can still lock and unlock doors from 20+ feet away. Only the ignition is impacted.

I tried to reprogram the fob following the instructions in the manual, but I hit a dead end. I turn the key, it reports "ready for fob #3", and, at that point, inserting the fob into the glove box slot does not do anything.

Here's a simple technical question. Am I supposed to have anything plugged into the rightmost small round outlet on the receiver, or not?

(Yes, I know, I'm supposed to do this with a factory service manual... but I'd rather not spend $200+ on the manual at this point, I'm not doing a teardown and rebuild, this was supposed to be a straightforward job.)

 

Been there, done that, in other ways.

 

Not saying you have to reprogram after a battery change, but that I had to when I changed mine. The vette would not detect either FOB afterwards. I was able to drive with the FOB in the slot but had to pop the truck and open the door, then put FOB in glovebox slot. Did a reprogram and everything worked.

 

I've had similar problems after I took off the console piece to put in insulation. I've suspected I didn't get a wire plugged back in properly or I messed out the receiver somehow. I'm curious if anyone has solved this problem. I've tried all the same stuff as the OP with no luck.

 

I got it working. The cable that goes into the glove box slot wasn't plugged in. It was sitting behind the trim panel near the slot, acting as a poor man's antenna and picking up the signal when the fob was in the slot. I'm guessing that the rest of the slot doubles as an amplified antenna for the receiver.