CAI question
an LS2 does benefit from a CAI. lots, including me, are running Vararams other Halltechs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AID-251-230

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kn...model/corvette
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

contradictory of what members say about other air filtration systems, for the LS2 OR LS3. Vararam out performs them all, the fastest LS2 & LS3 c6's have the Vararam! both internal mods and bolt/ons according to the c6 performance list, member HOXXOH has done a thread and proved beyond a shadow of a doubt that the Fastest and the overwhelming majority of the fast cars have Vararam
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...omparison.html





http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kn...model/corvette






contradictory of what members say about other air filtration systems, for the LS2 OR LS3. Vararam out performs them all, the fastest LS2 & LS3 c6's have the Vararam! both internal mods and bolt/ons according to the c6 performance list, member HOXXOH has done a thread and proved beyond a shadow of a doubt that the Fastest and the overwhelming majority of the fast cars have Vararam
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...omparison.htmlYou can increase the filtration for a Vararam by using a Amsoil EAA-240 filter.










Prepare the props: Divide the parts to create two assemblies. Put two nuts about 1" to 1 1/2" in on each rod and tighten against each other (jam nut) and add a washer. Put two more nuts on the other end of each rod and run them loosely leaving about an inch space from the first pair and then add a washer.
Open the shroud: Pop the two plastic snap pins out at the bottom front of the shroud. They're equally spaced about 6" from the centerline and attach the shroud to the front vertical metal plate. Pry the center locking pin out about a half inch and then pull the whole pin out. Push the bottom of the shroud toward the radiator.
Install the props: While holding the shroud open, put a rod with the most thread showing (it should be about 3" worth) into the hole where the pins were in the metal plate, then put the short end into the mating hole on the shroud. Repeat on the other side. You should now have both assemblies in place and the shroud propped open about 1"-1 1/2". Now run the frontmost loose nuts toward the front of the car until you get the open space of the shroud where you desire. I'd suggest somewhere in the 2 1/2" to 3" range. When you get the opening desired, spin the remaining loose nut to the front and tighten it, jam nut style, to the other nut.
That's it. It takes longer to read this than to do it. Obviously reverse the process to restore the shroud to the stock location.
Enjoy the newfound power, but also be aware that some of the dirt etc that would have been stuck in your radiator/condenser will now be on your engine. If you are creative enough, you can seal off the upper part (above the air filter) of the opening to stop the dirt and effectively force the air through the filter.
Prepare the props: Divide the parts to create two assemblies. Put two nuts about 1" to 1 1/2" in on each rod and tighten against each other (jam nut) and add a washer. Put two more nuts on the other end of each rod and run them loosely leaving about an inch space from the first pair and then add a washer.
Open the shroud: Pop the two plastic snap pins out at the bottom front of the shroud. They're equally spaced about 6" from the centerline and attach the shroud to the front vertical metal plate. Pry the center locking pin out about a half inch and then pull the whole pin out. Push the bottom of the shroud toward the radiator.
Install the props: While holding the shroud open, put a rod with the most thread showing (it should be about 3" worth) into the hole where the pins were in the metal plate, then put the short end into the mating hole on the shroud. Repeat on the other side. You should now have both assemblies in place and the shroud propped open about 1"-1 1/2". Now run the frontmost loose nuts toward the front of the car until you get the open space of the shroud where you desire. I'd suggest somewhere in the 2 1/2" to 3" range. When you get the opening desired, spin the remaining loose nut to the front and tighten it, jam nut style, to the other nut.
That's it. It takes longer to read this than to do it. Obviously reverse the process to restore the shroud to the stock location.
Enjoy the newfound power, but also be aware that some of the dirt etc that would have been stuck in your radiator/condenser will now be on your engine. If you are creative enough, you can seal off the upper part (above the air filter) of the opening to stop the dirt and effectively force the air through the filter.





The two problems of using toggle bolts are the head of the bolt doesn't fit through the shroud hole, so it has a tendency to pop out (I lost 2) and that the bolt is only 4" long, which again allows it to pop out. Additionally, the toggle is hard to adjust and relies on tension to keep the bolt from unscrewing.
The method I described resolves all the issues inherent with toggle bolts.










Right. I would like true "cold air", but don't want to cut the shroud or require a tune while I am still under warrantee.

