So i did some research on the service column lock because thats what came up on the dash AND THE CAR WOULDNT START….IVE BEEN HAVING THIS PROBLEM LATELY! So i check into it and the was some talk on a SERVICE COLUMN LOCK "BYPASS MODUEL." Well i installed it the way i was directed and the car starts fine now but one MAJOR ISSUE, THE STERRING COLUMN IS LOCKED AND IT READS "service column locked"
I need some direction please!!!!

Car is a 2005 C6 Corvette
I guess the C5 all had this problem and it bleed into the first year of the C6 /2005

 

so if i understand you correctly you purchased the bypass module from Corvettes of Houston and installed it but before hooking it up you didn't make sure the column was still locked?

If that's the case, plug back in the original pigtail and then cycle the car on and off, disconnect the battery for 10 min. then reconnect. once battery is reconnected, start the car and attempt to turn the wheel.. if its free (not locked) unplug the pigtail and plug back in the bypass module.. should be good from there. similar happened to me and this is how I got past it.

Best of luck!

 

Yes i believe it came from houston…out of the Tomball Post office. I guess i didn't think of that (to make sure the column is locked) But the car doesn't start. Once in awhile the car will start up after pulling the Neg. Terminal but its hit or miss. So i purchased this module thinking that it would eliminate the service column code and start the vehicle.

So what i got out of it was just the car starting with the steering column locked up. Im going to give it a go, thanks!

 

So, No go! it seems to be making the fob noises more since I've pulled and installed

 

One of the guys from Corvette of Houston said that it sounded like i needed to replace the Body Control Module and Ignition Control module in conjunction with each other….???? any comments or other opinions? thx

 

this might help some.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...lumn-lock.html

 

This was the first problem with my vette (see my trail of postings), the stearing lock assembly was replaced in November. Now I've got bigger problems.

Hopefully the solution is your assmbly and not something bigger (seems '05's are cursed).

Best of luck

 

Before you unplug the steering column lock module, then plug in the eliminator box to the module, the car has to be in ACC mode, and the steering column lock unlocked.

If you are sure that the steering column is in the unlocked position position before you unplugged it from the module, then with it unplugged, it will stay unplugged to take that lock itself out of the play.

If you can not get the steering wheel lock unlocked by putting the car in Acc mode, then there is a jumper kit that you can use off the cigarette plug to get it unlocked instead. The module puts out around 10.5V and if the lock is binding up, may not be enough power to get it unlocked. The voltage from the cigarette lighter plug is around 13.5 volts with a fully charged battery, and has the extra juice needed to get the lock unlocked when it being stubborn.
Note, the 13.5 volt in, only 10.5 v out of the module to the steering column lock is part of the low battery problem with the system, since if the voltage drops from the low battery into the module, the voltage out to activate the steering column lock drops as well.




So on to the next problem, and that is if you where received a defective eliminator. The first eliminator that COW sent me was bad, caused steering column lock service messages, and had to be replaced.

Not Knowing who you got the eliminator from, lets just make testing easy.

Start with the red wire, and find the only other wire that will have a resistance across it and the red wire (around 4.7).

Now with the green wire, find the only other wire that shows a resistance across it back to the green wire.

The red and matching resistance wire are the coil side of the relay, while the green and its resistance matching wire are the control switching side of the relay.
Note here, if you can not find another wire that has resistance across it and the green wire to even begin to start with, the eliminator is defective.

The way that relay is switched, is 12 volts across the red/other resistance wire, and depending of the direction of the voltage, will switch the relay open or close. So 12+ to the red, and 12v neg to the other wire, will switch the relay one way, while 12- to the red, 12+ to the other wire will switch it the other way.

On the Green and other resistance wire, as the relay switch to either open or closed, it changes the resistance value across these two wires.

The common defect of the eliminator is when the wires/resistors are soldered to the relay posts, the post get too hot to destroy the internal circuits of the relay.

So when you are looking at resistance values across the green/other wire, if the unit is defective, either in the relay coil open or closed position , your going to have no resistance across the green to other wire in either open or closed positions (In car terms, steering column either locked or unlocked).

Lastly, since the steering column lock module sends out the unlock/lock 10.5 voltage signal as either red wire positive, or red wire negative to either lock or unlock the steering column lock, there is really not way to install the eliminator out of cycle. As soon as you hit the ACC or run start button, the module is going to send the eliminator into the correct relay position to get the correct need resistance value across green other wire.

 

you can always call the manufacturer of the "REAL" Column Lock Eliminator for the 05 vettes. Victor who used to work for vettes of houston. and designed these while working there. he has since quit and opened his own shop and no longer sells these to vettes of houston. they apparently are making bad attempts to copy it. if it shipped from the tomball post office then you got a unit from Victor.

i pm'ed the op the contact info , as Vic and VZ Autoworks are not yet sponsors of the forum as far as i know.