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Need help from my experts on Corvette Forum: My EBS/Traction control light has been coming on, and I have taken it to the dealership twice. The codes that they say have been coming up are CO131 and CO161. The first time they said there was a loose connection somewhere and they tightened it and said it was fixed. The light came on again. So I returned and they said the same codes were displaying and they said they had to recalibrate a wheel sensor and that was the problem. The light came again again and I returned a third time and they said the CO131 code was showing again and now they've said I need to replace my electronic brake control module AND brake pressure module, a $1500 repair of course.
So here are my questions:
1. Do these codes indicate that these 2 parts are faulty and need to be replaced? My EBS/Traction light comes on intermittently at different times of driving. Will come on when I start the car, after I've driven it a while, in wet or dry conditions.
2. The dealership says that both parts have to be replaced together. The codes show that BOTH parts are broken and that BOTH have to be replaced as a package deal. I want to get my car repaired correctly and I don't mind paying to have it fixed right so if I need to replace both of them I will. But do I always have to replace both or are they trying to get me to pay for a more expensive repair?
3. Finally, looking at the codes that are showing, can the problem only be the costly repair of replacing the parts or can it be something more minor? Like I said before, they already tightened some wire and recalibrated a wheel sensor. My rear brake pads and rotors need to be replaced and I'm getting those done this week....could this be perhaps causing the EBS issues if the pads and rotors need replacing?
Thanks for all the great advice....Karyn :+)
Last edited by Karyn Hanken; Dec 11, 2014 at 03:02 PM.
Intermittent problems like this sounds like a bad ground or connection to the starter. The starters are not cheap either. The Battery is 5 years is getting to the end too. I recently had an issue with my 2006 Yukon Denali, I replaced the battery and thought I had the positive lead tight. Turns out it was just a little loose, loose enough to lose contact with the side mounted post.
I don't know what dealership you've been using, Speedway in Monroe does a lot of work on Corvettes and may be able of help (that is where I bought mine). I took my car to Chuck Olsen last year for a radiator upgrade and a transmission flush. I didn't see a lot of Corvettes there but they did good work for me.
But like I stated, intermittent problems can be tough to solve.
If it cranks and turns over but won't start its not the battery or connections. If it were the engine would not crank.
I'm betting its a faulty fuel pump relay. Look in the fuse box under the hood and find the one that says Fuel Pump. Get a new one and replace it. They are pretty cheap so if it's not that no big deal but I'm betting thats what it is.
They need to connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fitting at the engine and see what is happening. If it shows low, then either the pump is bad or not getting current. The gauge can be left in place so that it will show what is going on when the problem eventually happens again. Also, if you hold the gas pedal to the floor, the same cranking but no starting will happen...it will not start until the gas pedal is released.
I have a 2009 base model Corvette. I had an issue recently where when I pushed the ignition button to start it, it would not "catch" and turn over. It would go "dadadadadada" really fast over and over but would not start. I had it towed to the Chevy dealership and they said it was a faulty fuel pump and I had it replaced with a new one. It drove great for a few days, then the same thing happened again. Push ignition button,"dadadadadadad" super fast, but would not catch and start. It's back at the Chevy dealership, and they say it's been starting fine for them. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm wondering if when I push the ignition button something is not communicating with the new fuel pump? Could it be an electrical issue? I don't have a lot of faith with the dealership, but I'm afraid to drive my car because it has left me stranded even with the new fuel pump. Anyone with similar issues or is there a great mechanic who can help point me in a direction so that I can help the dealership diagnose my problem? Thanks so much...Karyn in Seattle
People are confused by what you mean when you write "dadadadada."
Is "dadada" the starter cranking sound, but it goes on for a long time and the car never starts, or "dadada" a bunch of clicking noises inside the dashboard?
People are confused by what you mean when you write "dadadadada."
Is "dadada" the starter cranking sound, but it goes on for a long time and the car never starts, or "dadada" a bunch of clicking noises inside the dashboard?
What "dadadadada" means to me is the starter is rotating the engine rapidly but the engine is not starting. Also meaning "Rapidly Turning Over or Cranking fast". A groaning slow ruu ruu ruu ruu ruu means the starter is slowly rotating the crankshaft and the engine is probably not turning fast enough to start. Also meaning "Slowly Turning Over" or "Cranking very slowly". A single click or series of clicks not followed by sounds of the engine turning over means it isn't cranking or turning over.
The OPs description "it would not "catch" and turn over. It would go "dadadadadada" really fast over and over but would not start" was some what confusing since it used contradictory terms and left me thinking he really meant it was rotating (turning over) but I wasn't 100% sure.
The difference in sounds can make a big difference in what diagnostic process you follow to find the problem. If the engine is turning over rapidly you can be pretty sure the battery and starter circuits are in great shape so you don't need to check them first. Things like lack of fuel, air or ignition are keeping the engine from starting. A bunch of clicks means you start looking at the battery and starting circuits (a low battery or bad solenoid on the starter are high on the list of causes that can cause this symptom). A slow crank means you need to look at the battery and then after that check for high resistance in the starting circuits or a starter that is starting to go bad.
Original posts is updated. SHE got it fixed. It was the relay as I suspected. It's too bad though that I'm sure she spend $$ on a fuel pump that she didn't need.
Original posts is updated. SHE got it fixed. It was the relay as I suspected. It's too bad though that I'm sure she spend $$ on a fuel pump that she didn't need.
so...you think it was a relay and not a burnt wire in or from the fuse box?
so...you think it was a relay and not a burnt wire in or from the fuse box?
From the update, it sounds like the dealer had no idea what it was. I'll bet they were happy to fix the 'burnt wire' for free because otherwise it would have been obvious that the replacement fuel pump wasn't needed.
From the update, it sounds like the dealer had no idea what it was. I'll bet they were happy to fix the 'burnt wire' for free because otherwise it would have been obvious that the replacement fuel pump wasn't needed.
lol...yeah...that's what i'm thinking. i would have liked to know if it was just the fuel pump relay or was it indeed a "burnt wire" within the fuel pump circuit. sigh...guess we'll never know.