Failed Lifter
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Fort Worth Tx
Failed Lifter?
I just installed a new cam with new springs and push rods.
It started right up and sounded good, but after a few minutes it started to make a ticking noise. I pulled the valve covers again to check for a broken spring but found nothing. So reading up on forums, I might have to check lifter lash. The noise can be heard in the video.
It started right up and sounded good, but after a few minutes it started to make a ticking noise. I pulled the valve covers again to check for a broken spring but found nothing. So reading up on forums, I might have to check lifter lash. The noise can be heard in the video.
Last edited by orange rush; May 13, 2014 at 12:17 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
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From: O'Fallon IL
What pushrod length did you go with? Another thing to consider is that cams will definitely make the valve train louder and headers don't help with the resonance either. Also, I would re-check the torque on those rocker arms.
However, I agree that it does sound like a sticky/failed lifter. The spring pressure may be too much for the lifter is they are really high mileage.
However, I agree that it does sound like a sticky/failed lifter. The spring pressure may be too much for the lifter is they are really high mileage.
Last edited by Pitufina; May 13, 2014 at 01:22 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Fort Worth Tx
I installed stock length push rods. 7.40 but I did not check the lash when I installed them. I just torqued them down to 22lbs and started it up.
So, if I have to change the lifters, go with LS7 type?
So, if I have to change the lifters, go with LS7 type?
Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 706
Likes: 56
From: Houston TX
I imagine the noise is more rapid when accelerating? Same thing happened to my LS2, although a while after the cam install.
Unfortunately for me it destroyed my cam in the process. LS7 Lifters seem to be the way to go.
Unfortunately for me it destroyed my cam in the process. LS7 Lifters seem to be the way to go.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Fort Worth Tx
So hoping the cam is not bad since I only drove a few miles.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Fort Worth Tx
After bring the piston to TDC and bringing the rocker to 0 lash, then torquing to 22lbs, should I still be able to turn the push rod? Because so far, following the instructions, I can get 0 lash, turn 1/2 and get 22 lbs and still roll the push rods between my fingers.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Fort Worth Tx
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
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From: Gilbert AZ
Aftermarket cams typically have smaller base circles so that is somewhat common. Just get a push rod checker, or you can do the bolt turn preload method. Should have a solid 1.5 turns of preload from zero lash until bolt torques.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
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From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
I say p-rods are too short too. Not something you'll really notice til you start it. You'll end up over-tightening everything to make up the difference and put undue stress on everything. It'll run fine for a while, but you'd likely break a spring or collapse a lifter as a result. Get a $20 pushrod length tool and know for sure.
Btw...LS7 lifters are the standard now. It's the same part # across all LS engines these days. LS3, LS9, LS7...all the same lifters.
If you're swapping lifters, Brian Tooley SLR's are the standard replacement upgrade unless you're switching to link bar lifters.
Btw...LS7 lifters are the standard now. It's the same part # across all LS engines these days. LS3, LS9, LS7...all the same lifters.
If you're swapping lifters, Brian Tooley SLR's are the standard replacement upgrade unless you're switching to link bar lifters.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Fort Worth Tx
Going to research this more today before moving ahead and contacting the vendor again. The car starts up and runs fine however. But agreed, more problems in the future if I dont address this now. However, I have been thinking about the oil in the engine. I replaced with filter and oil before starting the car with Mobile 5w30 as usual. The lifter does not start ticking until the oil gets to about 120 degrees. Start up and idle initially the car has that sewing machine sound that is expected. So maybe I should move to 10w40?
Anywho, started my parts list for the lifter swap.....
Anywho, started my parts list for the lifter swap.....
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Fort Worth Tx
Found this while searching the net...
A 228R cam has a base circle radius of .7265". That means the 228R cam has a .049" shorter base circle radius than the stock cam. If you are trying to maintain stock lifter preload with the 228R cam, you will need to run a .049" longer pushrod than stock .7755"-.7265"). Adding .049" to the stock 7.38" pushrod length gives you a 7.429" pushrod. The 7.425" pushrod comes closest to maintaining factory preload with the 228R cam. If you run a 7.400" pushrod, it will work, but you will be running .029" shallower preload than stock.
A 228R cam has a base circle radius of .7265". That means the 228R cam has a .049" shorter base circle radius than the stock cam. If you are trying to maintain stock lifter preload with the 228R cam, you will need to run a .049" longer pushrod than stock .7755"-.7265"). Adding .049" to the stock 7.38" pushrod length gives you a 7.429" pushrod. The 7.425" pushrod comes closest to maintaining factory preload with the 228R cam. If you run a 7.400" pushrod, it will work, but you will be running .029" shallower preload than stock.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Fort Worth Tx
Another question for you all.
I got an pushrod length checker and got around to checking it over the weekend.
I started off with the rod set at 7.40 or stock, and it took 1/2 turn to get to 22 lbs torque. I then gave the pushrod checker one full turn, that should equal .50 more in length, and torqued it again, got one full turn of the socket before hitting 22 lbs. So I am assuming then that I will need 7.425 long pushrods.
That being said, to you all think that will quiet the engine down? Of should I move ahead with lifters?
I got an pushrod length checker and got around to checking it over the weekend.
I started off with the rod set at 7.40 or stock, and it took 1/2 turn to get to 22 lbs torque. I then gave the pushrod checker one full turn, that should equal .50 more in length, and torqued it again, got one full turn of the socket before hitting 22 lbs. So I am assuming then that I will need 7.425 long pushrods.
That being said, to you all think that will quiet the engine down? Of should I move ahead with lifters?
Last edited by orange rush; May 19, 2014 at 09:21 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Fort Worth Tx
Looks like it will be lifters after all. Installed 7.425 pushrods, and 10w40 oil. It started right up and idled nicely until the oil temp hit 180 then it started rattling again.
So ordered LS7 lifters, new trays, head gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Hoping like hell this fixes it and I can start driving it again soon.
So ordered LS7 lifters, new trays, head gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Hoping like hell this fixes it and I can start driving it again soon.