Best C6 Brake Upgrade WITHOUT Changing Wheels?
If you just want better stopping power, better tires and better brake pads and you can get the car to darn near throw you through the window. Of course depending on how aggressive you go with the pad there are trade offs like dust and noise.
Pads and tires are the only parts that actually touch. So pad compound and tire compound are going to be the biggest factors in how quickly the car can stop.......calipers, cooling ducts, rotors are all going to matter in how many times you can hammer the brake pedal to the floor.
That being said....BBK's are not really there for 'performance' so much as they are for repeatability. Sure those 14" rotors and 6 piston calipers are a killer look, but all of that hardware is there to make sure you hit those same braking point markers at the end of your session on track as you did at the start.
So if you are after a better look for the car as well as a little better performance there are some Wilwood kits that should fit under the wheels with a small spacer. Most of the bigger kits like StopTech and Brembo are not going to clear a stock wheel.
if you can put up with the noise and dust, hawk HP+ or DTC30 will work well on the street as both come up to operating temp quickly. The dtc30 has a bit more heat resistance and torque so Id go with that, but the HP+ makes a huge improvement in torque over the factory crap pads...
cheapest place Ive found for pads is KNS brakes
Wilwood forged narrow superlights are cheap and will fit they include lines calipers pads and two piece rotors
TCE has the best pricing on these - something like 1400 per axle http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...te-c6/kits-36/
If you go with these wilwoods, note that the pads that come in the kits are not that aggressive, but you may be able to get the vendor to swap them out for something better

KNS sell a similar setup (front only) with the wider pads - 20 mm thick vs the 16 or 177mm and those are 1600 and may require small spacers
http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-item/...+KNS+4K+Rotors
good luck!

EDIT:
Hawk pad comparison charts:
Last edited by el es tu; Sep 19, 2014 at 07:42 AM.





The Hawk HP+ that el es tu noted will give good performance for one hard stop from 30 mph or 130 mph. Of course, the tires must be up to the task, which means your base size tires on Z06 wheels will be your next problem. Get the Z06 replicas to match the tires if that's the look you want.




Run XP10 front $201 Rear XP8 $158.
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It also depends on how fast is your idea of high speed. With the J9L base brakes, I finish the 1/4 mi at high 120's and can easily make the first turn-off at 600 ft without fade and with OEM pads.
Since you don't race, it might be a good idea to find a deserted road to test the stopping distance from maybe 100. If you are at high speed, you should allow extra space to slow down prior to hitting the brakes. The OP didn't allow enough space for safety, hence this thread.




Carbotech™ Bobcat 1521™ The Carbotech Bobcat 1521™ is our high performance street compound that is our most successful compound. The Bobcat compound is known for its awesome release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. Like our AX™ & XP™ line of compounds, Bobcat 1521™ is a Ceramic based friction material offering minimal rotor damage and non-corrosive dust. Bobcat 1521™ offers outstanding performance, even when cold, low dusting and low noise with an excellent initial bite. This compound’s virtually perfect linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Bobcat 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 900°F. Bobcat 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle, police cruiser. The Bobcat 1521™ compound has been found to last two-three times longer than OE pads you can purchase at a dealership or national retailer. That’s one of the beauties of Carbotech Ceramic brake compounds. Bobcat 1521™ is NOT recommended for any track use.




Carbotech™ XP8™
A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range of 200°F-1250°F+ (93°C to 676°C+). Carbotech™ XP8™ is the first of our racing compounds. Good initial bite at race temperatures, high coefficient of friction, excellent modulation and release characteristics. Extremely high fade resistance and very rotor friendly. Perfect for track day use with any tire and can still be driven safely to and from the track. Carbotech™ does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise. Carbotech™ XP8™ is a great compound on the front & rear of most open wheel and sports racers.
Keep in mind these graphs are good for comparing what was tested by the specific manufacture more than comparing one brand to another. But still give you a good idea of how each falls against it's own family of compounds and temp ranges.
These represent the primary pads TCE stocks for the Wilwood listings. There are however additional compounds offered. Many of them have similar characteristics so the cart gets a bit messy. These handle a wide range of uses and represent the bulk of what I sell.
It also depends on how fast is your idea of high speed. With the J9L base brakes, I finish the 1/4 mi at high 120's and can easily make the first turn-off at 600 ft without fade and with OEM pads.
Since you don't race, it might be a good idea to find a deserted road to test the stopping distance from maybe 100. If you are at high speed, you should allow extra space to slow down prior to hitting the brakes. The OP didn't allow enough space for safety, hence this thread.
The OP was talking a "hypothetical" range of around 160-ish... Obviously probably expecting too much from stock C6 brakes, hence the post. I was surprised that previously unused brakes (first real use during the drive, no previous hard braking) were so inadequate. Just trying to find the most economic fix that will fit under stock sized front rims if possible.....
1) confirm condition of your braking system, color of liquid, wear on pads wear on rotors and check for leaks on the lines particularly by the caliper.
---> replace parts that show excessive ware
Next step for improvement:
2) Replace break fluid with DOT4 GM (you might still have DOT3 in there??) or DOT4 race fluids
3) replace pads following some of the charts shown here
4) braided hoses
That is all you need.. actually you can use the above for SCCA short road corse and be fine
1) confirm condition of your braking system, color of liquid, wear on pads wear on rotors and check for leaks on the lines particularly by the caliper.
---> replace parts that show excessive ware
Next step for improvement:
2) Replace break fluid with DOT4 GM (you might still have DOT3 in there??) or DOT4 race fluids
3) replace pads following some of the charts shown here
4) braided hoses
That is all you need.. actually you can use the above for SCCA short road corse and be fine
I would make sure that you've got the pads bedded in correctly. If you haven't done this, your first hard braking experience will cause some out-gassing of the pads which will cause significantly reduced braking until that's done. There should be a procedure for this in the manual.
That being said, the last time I was out on track, with ACDelco pads (factory), I way overshot my braking zone on the first real lap that I did. This was mostly because even the factory pads weren't up to temp, and neither were the tires (Michelin PSS, stock base sizes). This was a similar scenario to what you described: ~160 mph, needed to get down to maybe 50-60 max for turn 1. I hadn't been on track for a few months, and the whole temp thing sort of skipped my mind... Fortunately for me there was plenty of runoff that connected to a later portion of the track. You don't get that on the interstate.
Just be aware that most brake/tire packages won't be at optimal temp when you really need them at 160 on the street. I do my share of stupid stuff too, but you just need to be mindful of the fact that street driving doesn't produce the proper temps for even stock pads/tires to decelerate you to near the speed of other vehicles in a timely manner. I love a good blast down the Mexican raceways, but chances are that if you have to put the pedal to the floor to avoid an accident, you're cutting it a bit close. If you're not lucky, you'll either trip ABS because the tires just can't get enough traction, or your pads just won't produce enough grip for a second or two.
Also make sure there isn't air in any of your brake lines, and as others suggested ensure that it isn't too discolored. Moisture will accumulate over time and that will substantially decrease the boiling point of the fluid, which will cause your pedal to go to the floor without any real braking effect after a little heat buildup. Still not an issue for a single stop, but something to be mindful of.
I would recommend spending a little cash to get out to your nearest road course and take a chance to really learn how the car is going to behave at those speeds. It's really the only place you can do that without significantly risking your/others lives. Just make sure not to drive the same way on the way back home like I always seem to do (boy 50 seems a lot slower than 160.....)
that was a bit long. sorry















