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2 in kooks headers question

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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 05:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by timd38
I did 1 3/4" for better torque, but never had dyno numbers to validate, so thank you!
I drove 100 miles with the 1 7/8 could clearly tell the tq loss in stop and go driving
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 05:46 PM
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I whent 11.3 @125 with stock intake manifold on stock clutch stock heads ,with the 450whp
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
I disagree for anything under 383 CI I tested a number of tube sizes and manufactures, try to get the extra et
Not really a reply but still sticking to primary tube size for headers I was wondering if anyone has some input on Kooks stepped headers. I am looking at their 1 7/8 stepped to 2" with a cat delete system. My thoughts are this will be a good setup when I get the funds together for an FI system.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NMMike2012GS
Not really a reply but still sticking to primary tube size for headers I was wondering if anyone has some input on Kooks stepped headers. I am looking at their 1 7/8 stepped to 2" with a cat delete system. My thoughts are this will be a good setup when I get the funds together for an FI system.
I would ask Doug at ECS
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by curtisb23
I whent 11.3 @125 with stock intake manifold on stock clutch stock heads ,with the 450whp
practice your driving skills, I went 10.62 @ 126.98 NA with bolt/ons only stock cam rockers springs oil pan timing chain cover valve covers never been off
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 06:54 PM
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Just got this car that was my 2nd time at track with it ..also stock clutch has 64k on it I wanted to drive it home
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by curtisb23
Just got this car that was my 2nd time at track with it ..also stock clutch has 64k on it I wanted to drive it home
I am know way knocking your time it is very good!!! and I see you are a new member so I figured you would need practice, these slave cyl suck. I have an automatic, check out the performance list and see wear you rate with your mods if I can help in any way let me know
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 07:35 PM
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It's ok, I'm a 6 speed manual, my clutch sucks and my pedal would always fall to the floor ,putting in a mcleod clutch new clav, I did a tick masters ,an doing the nos an retune a new set of slicks then back to track when it opens up to get my 10s pass on motor
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by curtisb23
It's ok, I'm a 6 speed manual, my clutch sucks and my pedal would always fall to the floor ,putting in a mcleod clutch new clav, I did a tick masters ,an doing the nos an retune a new set of slicks then back to track when it opens up to get my 10s pass on motor
good driving should put you in the 10.6 10.8 range.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 07:45 PM
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should try a rps twin carbon clutch
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 08:39 PM
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Iv really got hand of the car after track closed, I'm from the import side used to reving to 8500 rpms not 6500 lol ,with the power I make now 10.6-10.8 will be the goal an I'll get it ,car picked up alot top end from the fast an just pulls super hard
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by curtisb23
Iv really got hand of the car after track closed, I'm from the import side used to reving to 8500 rpms not 6500 lol ,with the power I make now 10.6-10.8 will be the goal an I'll get it ,car picked up alot top end from the fast an just pulls super hard
The fast is a great mod gave me 30 rwhp 30 rwtq, across the whole rpm band thats fast 90 ported and ported descreened tb it makes it pull idle to 7200 no drop off
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 07:23 AM
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I don't no much about these motors some people are telling me no to rev it anymore I'm at 6600 now I wanted go to about 7000 ,I'm doing the rocker arm rebuild next week
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 08:38 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by curtisb23
I don't no much about these motors some people are telling me no to rev it anymore I'm at 6600 now I wanted go to about 7000 ,I'm doing the rocker arm rebuild next week
I have stock rockers no rebuild, you have to look at your dyno to see were to shift at and log it to see what your shift extensions are then pic the shift point
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 08:50 AM
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My car pulls all the way to red line doesn't drop off ,that's why I was thinking of reving it out motor but I'm not so sure on reving it more
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by curtisb23
My car pulls all the way to red line doesn't drop off ,that's why I was thinking of reving it out motor but I'm not so sure on reving it more
When you shift to the next gear you want to be in a good long power range the dump and dataloging can show you the right spot. Mine is 5800 so if I shifted at 6600 I might be at 5000 on the shift extension
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by JDP Tech
For anything under 450 WHP, I agree that 1-3/4" is the way to go, but at the OP's power range with the 150 shot, 1-7/8" are the way to go.

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i dont know about that..
I have 1 3/4"...LG...914 rwhp..890tq
I have a set of 1 7/8 kooks i may try but im still into my 1 3/4" with a 2.5"collector
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To 2 in kooks headers question

Old Jan 24, 2015 | 01:08 PM
  #38  
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Rite I get that ,but I have been wanting to rev the car more because it kept making power from the old rmp limit ,if I can rev this car to 7k I'd have a nice power curve with the lil extra rpms
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 01:34 PM
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I've got 2 inch headers on my C5 and they are not only a PITB but I know my car is down on power in the midrange running 27 pounds of boost. I'd run 1 7/8's for a blower car over 600-650rwhp all the way up to 1000-1100hp. Anything NA and I'd stick with the 1 3/4 like Dennis said.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by winters97gt
I've got 2 inch headers on my C5 and they are not only a PITB but I know my car is down on power in the midrange running 27 pounds of boost. I'd run 1 7/8's for a blower car over 600-650rwhp all the way up to 1000-1100hp. Anything NA and I'd stick with the 1 3/4 like Dennis said.
really hard on plug wires too
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