Replacing front end links
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Replacing front end links
I have a 2005 C6 base Vette and the front end links (at least on the passenger's side) have gone bad. I ordered new OEM end links and will be installing them tomorrow. I know this is a fairly straight-forward install and I've read a few DIY threads, but my question has to do with loading the suspension. My thought is to use a lift in which you drive onto, and therefore the front suspension is loaded. I believe this makes it easier to remove the end links. Am I correct?
Le Mans Master
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From: Chino CA
I just put mine on Jack stands, removed the wheels and took of the end links. I read about loading the suspension and had my floor Jack ready to raise the suspension but I didn't have any problems just pulling them off. Took longer to get the car on stands and get the wheels off than it did to replace the end links. I did all four and my car is silent across rough pavement now.
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Thanks for the feedback! I don't have the jack plugs, so I am going to avoid using the Y lift. That leaves me with the lift that you drive on, which means all 4 wheels will be loaded. I intend to swap out the front links while the wheels are still on.
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Installed the front end links today. Word to the wise--do yourself a favor and remove the wheels before doing this install. I tried to save time and did this with the wheels on, and spent a stupid amount of time trying to get the right angles on the wrench to remove/put back on the nuts. Lesson learned.
Hopefully this resolves the noise I am hearing, which according to a local dealer was the end links.
Hopefully this resolves the noise I am hearing, which according to a local dealer was the end links.
Le Mans Master
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From: Charlotte NC
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Installed the front end links today. Word to the wise--do yourself a favor and remove the wheels before doing this install. I tried to save time and did this with the wheels on, and spent a stupid amount of time trying to get the right angles on the wrench to remove/put back on the nuts. Lesson learned.
Hopefully this resolves the noise I am hearing, which according to a local dealer was the end links.
Hopefully this resolves the noise I am hearing, which according to a local dealer was the end links.
I believe you were told to remove the wheels in an above post. Why ask questions if you cannot follow instructions? When I did mine I asked, was told, and all was well.
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Le Mans Master
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From: Chino CA
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Better question, why are you only replacing the one end link.
I look at it as a box set for replacements, since you can get all 4 for around $100 with only one shipping charge, and if one was worn out, the rest are shortly to follow.
Plus why get dirty/out the car on jack stands few times, when you can replace all 4 at the same time instead.
I look at it as a box set for replacements, since you can get all 4 for around $100 with only one shipping charge, and if one was worn out, the rest are shortly to follow.
Plus why get dirty/out the car on jack stands few times, when you can replace all 4 at the same time instead.
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Better question, why are you only replacing the one end link.
I look at it as a box set for replacements, since you can get all 4 for around $100 with only one shipping charge, and if one was worn out, the rest are shortly to follow.
Plus why get dirty/out the car on jack stands few times, when you can replace all 4 at the same time instead.
I look at it as a box set for replacements, since you can get all 4 for around $100 with only one shipping charge, and if one was worn out, the rest are shortly to follow.
Plus why get dirty/out the car on jack stands few times, when you can replace all 4 at the same time instead.
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This morning I installed new OEM Z51 sway bars (front/rear). When removing/installing the fronts, I removed the front tires. While it was a bit easier to get at the end links, it isn't a whole lot easier. What is a PITA (and I am still trying to figure out) is keeping the end link stud from moving while tightening the nut. Yes, there is a very thin (almost like a washer) "nut" welded in place next to the bushing that, when properly held in place, allows you to tighten the nut. My box wrench is pretty thick and I could not get a good hold on this "washer nut". Whether it was the angle, how thick my wrench was or whatever it was a PITA. I am going to buy a thin-style box wrench to help in the future, but that is my least favorite part of the car to work on. Something that should be so simple kicked my a$$. Pathetic.
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Did you not notice the T-40 receiver socket on the end of the threaded rod sections?
This allows you to hold the threaded rod section in place as you tighten and remove the bolts.
So the one on the left, you use a T40 to back up the thread rod section from turning,
while the one of the right, a box end wrench instead.
This allows you to hold the threaded rod section in place as you tighten and remove the bolts.
So the one on the left, you use a T40 to back up the thread rod section from turning,
while the one of the right, a box end wrench instead.
Last edited by Dano523; May 3, 2015 at 09:17 AM.
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I did leverage that when initially tightening a few of the nuts. While that was helpful, it wasn't useful when it came time to use a torque wrench.
The lower bolts are very easy to get at; its the upper bolt that is more difficult. In the rear, both upper/lower bolts are easy to get at.
I ended up buying this type of wrench:
I think this will be the solution to being able to hold the washer nut in place.
Last edited by MKUMLT; May 3, 2015 at 10:34 AM.
