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where do you get a catch can for $50. ? cheapest one i have seen is $140.
Sorry. I didn't make myself very clear. I was comparing the dual catch cans and single catch can plus oil separator. Dual catch can runs about 300 hundred. Single catch can plus oil separator is 250 or so. 50 bucks difference between setup.
I run dual cans but it is not necessary. I ran an elite before, and now Mighty Mouse. No comparison in quality or function.
Contact David at Mighty Mouse Solutions. He will be happy to walk you through choosing the right setup for your car.
I've never owned Elite's product, but several people told me that after having oil all over the place they switched to MM's and haven't had a problem since. I just went straight to MM's
Dano,
Great info. One question, would it be better to have two catch cans ( clean and dirty) or one catch can (dirty) and clean air oil separator??? Would this setup accomplish the same?
I mean for an extra 50 dollars one could buy a second catch can, so if the dual catch can is better then it's worth the extra few bucks. If the two setup are the same, then you will same me 50 bucks.
The elite air/oil separator is used on the LS dry sump motors, and it is the second catch can in the system for the clean side.
The air/oil separator works just like a catch can, but the oil caught in the separator is just drain back down into the tank, instead of having to be drained manual drained out like a normal catch can.
So the Air/oil separator (Which replaces the OEM oil tank cap) covers the clean side, and then you have a stand alone catch can to cover the dirty side.
If you have a wet sump motor, then two catch can's needed, being on the clean side, and another catch can on the dirty side.
As for a single catch to catch both sides (clean and dirty), you could pull that off with some one way check valves if push comes to shove, but would't suggest it, since if one of the check valves goes south, then could have a nastily uncontrolled air leak into the intake manifold that would put the car into a lean condition.
The elite air/oil separator is used on the LS dry sump motors, and it is the second catch can in the system for the clean side.
The air/oil separator works just like a catch can, but the oil caught in the separator is just drain back down into the tank, instead of having to be drained manual drained out like a normal catch can.
So the Air/oil separator (Which replaces the OEM oil tank cap) covers the clean side, and then you have a stand alone catch can to cover the dirty side.
If you have a wet sump motor, then two catch can's needed, being on the clean side, and another catch can on the dirty side.
As for a single catch to catch both sides (clean and dirty), you could pull that off with some one way check valves if push comes to shove, but would't suggest it, since if one of the check valves goes south, then could have a nastily uncontrolled air leak into the intake manifold that would put the car into a lean condition.
I have dry sump. This is what I wanted to verify. I was told to run two catch can due to the oil separator not being good for cold weather (below 32F) but I live in Norcal and it doesnt get below that here. I might be closed. plus if it does, its probably only at night time for few hrs.
Thanks. I will probably look into this setup!
Quick question, with the catch can on the dirty side, is it possible to have oil still run into the intake if one does not empty it in a timely manner and its full???
I asked because I had similar setup for my camaro. One catch can on the dirty side and a breather on the clean side. This breather did not had lines going into or out of. so the intake line and valve cover were capped off. Before I sold it, I swap the inake and was surprised to find some oil in the coupler. I was trying to figure out how the oil got in there??? maybe the catch can was too full and was sucking oil into it??
Yes, if the catch can fills up full , then what was caught in the catch can will be sucked into the intake manifold. So if you run a catch can, then it needs to be check and emptied before it become full.
As for the cold with the Elite air/oil separators ,
Originally Posted by menendez1293,
The reason why GM asks you to remove the separator during the winter months is not because the plastic can crack. Most of what passes through the clean side PCV is a form of vapor and if the ambient temperature is low enough, it could potentially freeze causing the PCV line to be blocked. This in turn can lead to all sorts of issues among one of them is potentially blowing a rear main seal due to crankcase pressure build up.
Response from elite,
The GM unit if it freezes will crack and break the unit.....the Elite unit is strong enough to not, and the flow will always keep it free of any amount great enough to accumulate.
When shut down, only a small amount of oil and vapor mix will be left in the unit (most drains back as soon as your not at WOT so there is never enough to really obstruct if it did freeze) so it is not really a concern.
These guys make a great catch can. A lot of the Camaro and Corvette guys are using them with good results.
Beware of the ones you find cheap on EBAY and elsewhere. Most of them are complete crap. http://www.customcorvetteaccessories...lcatchcan.html
Just checked inside my LS3 intake manif9old, only 11,000 miles, big puddle of oil in there. Not raced, but leaned on once a week. Out looking for a catch can today.
This thread went off on a tangent.
Assuming the OP's car is normally aspirated and wet sump i do recommend a catch can.
It eliminates oil being sucked out the engine, pooling in the intake manifold that then gets sucked into the cylinders. This lowers the fuel's octane rating.
got an 06 LS2 77,000 I love too spank M3's all the time{meaning I drive it hard} why don't I have oil pooling in the manifold?
I have a pretty detailed catch can thread that from the beginning was a work in process & came to a head when some key members gave me some great feedback (Dano523 was a big help). Mine is a baffled catch can from Mishimoto that I fabricated to work on my Dry Sump LS3. The Elite cap that Dano recommend, I posted about in post #27
The Air/Oil separator seems to be working very well on my setup. Thanks for the recommendation Dano.
Originally Posted by Dano523
The elite air/oil separator is used on the LS dry sump motors, and it is the second catch can in the system for the clean side.
The air/oil separator works just like a catch can, but the oil caught in the separator is just drain back down into the tank, instead of having to be drained manual drained out like a normal catch can.
So the Air/oil separator (Which replaces the OEM oil tank cap) covers the clean side, and then you have a stand alone catch can to cover the dirty side.
If you have a wet sump motor, then two catch can's needed, being on the clean side, and another catch can on the dirty side.
As for a single catch to catch both sides (clean and dirty), you could pull that off with some one way check valves if push comes to shove, but would't suggest it, since if one of the check valves goes south, then could have a nastily uncontrolled air leak into the intake manifold that would put the car into a lean condition.
We go to great lengths to build a high power engine to breathe like a champion then ignore it's ventilation and evacuation needs or just use a band aid instead orrrr a catch can !
Catch can should not catch any oil the oil belongs in the oil pan and they should not vent to free air cause that stinks the car they should not be connected to the center or the top dirty air should go in lower side and the bottom so air will clean out on it's way up and out the top to be inhaled into the motor 100% clean and the bottom hose should go to the crank case to return oil there where it belongs while the crank case itself is ventilated.
Never need service never need cleaning or emptying can be installed out of the way and is a complete high performance engine evac system clean filtrated air is absorbed by the motor from cold air intake.
got an 06 LS2 77,000 I love too spank M3's all the time{meaning I drive it hard} why don't I have oil pooling in the manifold?
Just because you haven't looked in your intake to see the oil pooling there doesn't mean it's not there.
Originally Posted by Blk 08 C6
here you go.MM Gen.4 can.his newest can that just came out.Ill be using it as a draft can with a 8 an line when I install my SC.A work of art IMO.
I ran a Moroso catch can with a breather on it for a while, thus venting my crankcase to atmosphere. My oil got black in 1000 miles and the inside of the car smelled like the inside of my engine as the crankcase vapors were being drawn into the cabin. Those are ok for race cars but not for street cars IMHO. A modern engine needs to have a functioning PCV system to evacuate combustion byproducts from the crankcase.
Dano523 excellent posts in this thread.
Last edited by Joe_G; Apr 4, 2016 at 08:01 AM.
Reason: to be more specific about the can I tried
Just because you haven't looked in your intake to see the oil pooling there doesn't mean it's not there.
I ran one of those once. My oil got black in 1000 miles and the inside of the car smelled like the inside of my engine as the crankcase vapors were being drawn into the cabin. Those are ok for race cars but not for street cars IMHO. A modern engine needs to have a functioning PCV system to evacuate combustion byproducts from the crankcase.
Dano523 excellent posts in this thread.
The MM can as in the picture is available with a full PCV valve. The vent on top only allows venting at high boost and is closed in normal driving. I run 2 of these and they are the best solution of what I have tried.
The MM can as in the picture is available with a full PCV valve. The vent on top only allows venting at high boost and is closed in normal driving. I run 2 of these and they are the best solution of what I have tried.
I must be more specific, I used a Moroso can with no internal PCV valve - it was just open to atmosphere. I will edit my post to be more specific, but I believe my comment is valid - a modern engine needs a PCV system not only for emissions but for the longevity we now all enjoy with our engines compared to the days of the circa 1930 road draft system (which is what you are doing when you open your crankcase to atmosphere all the time).
I must be more specific, I used a Moroso can with no internal PCV valve - it was just open to atmosphere. I will edit my post to be more specific, but I believe my comment is valid - a modern engine needs a PCV system not only for emissions but for the longevity we now all enjoy with our engines compared to the days of the circa 1930 road draft system (which is what you are doing when you open your crankcase to atmosphere all the time).
Agree.. the cheap cans with just an open breather are no good. They just smell and make a mess all over.
