I suggest you read the entire thread, starting at post #1. Several of the posts indicate the ignition switch was the problem, so you might consider swapping in a new one. The key fob has nothing to do with this problem. Once the car is running, the fob is not in play until you switch off. It would be a really bad design for the system to be dependant on the fob battery to keep the engine running.

 

I agree but, before swapping the ign switch I would pull the carpet down in the passenger footwell and check for corrosion and/or tight connections.

 

Fats wasn't being unkind.. Might need some thicker skin if you plan on posting more around here if that was taken as rude...

 

Yep my thoughts exactly this forum is definetly not for me. Take care!

 

Hate to see you go. This really is a valuable resource for Corvette owners. I've been a member for 17 years and still get loads of benefit from coming in when I have a question or need guidance.

Stick around. Keep in mind that 'search' is your friend. Once you get hits, read through them. As you can see, I don't have a lot of posts in my 17 years because I am able to get a lot of info just from treating CF like a living encyclopaedia. If I have done thorough searching and reading and still can't find the answers, I'll post up and people will jump in to help. If I get lazy and don't do my homework, I may get some crap from others. Maybe I deserve it, maybe not. Search effectiveness is dependent on the keywords you use. You'll get the hang of it. I'm not saying you won't still get unnecessary crap. It is a public forum after all and you can't control who posts....well, the Moderators can, but they use their powers in a judicious way.

As I did in the post above, when I have information I think would be valuable to the CF members, I'll post it up for the benefit of all. It's what we do. I don't treat it like Facebook or other social media and post constantly. Some do and it ends up filling up the posts with superfluous ramblings and opinions that does nobody any good. When I joined my first forum back in '95 (Jeep Forum) it wasn't so much that way. CF wasn't as 'snappy' when I joined in '05 but has certainly gotten so as people have lost their social skills on FB, Twitter, etc. Go figure. Again, you can't control....

So Fats was just trying to tell you to use the info that was already posted. Really, Fats wasn't rude at all... just being matter-of-fact and helpful at the same time. We get a lot of new members who jump in ask questions that have been answered many times before without doing any up front work. We see it often and it really does get old. Try joining and have your first post be 'What kind of oil should I run in my new to me 2010 Corvette". OMG! Flames from hell will consume you.

Anyway, stick around. Lurk for a while and learn. There is a wealth of information in these pages so gain from them.

 

Thanks for letting me know this. I don't do social media at all for that reason, so I will make sure if I use this site again I will treat it like an encyclopedia as you have recommended-thanks again!

 

Hi guys,

I ran into the same problem with my 2007 LS2 base model. Until now I did the following :

Installed new Ignition Switch in the Dashboard
Cleaned BCM connections in the passenger footwell
Installed a new fuel pump relay (twice)
Got the whole fusebox out, cleaned it inside and checked every connection of the copper cables top and down
Re-seated the cable pin in the harness connection that goes into the underside of the fusebox that is the "hot" side to the fuel pump (little discoloration on the pastic)

Still no luck. The problem is very intermittent, had it within a couple of miles 3 times, then over 150 miles without problems.

I have now installed a permanent fuel pressure gauge to see if I have fuel pressure next time it happens. And I have a fuel pump relay with a switch on top, so next time I can trigger the relay by hand.

Codes in the GM Tech2 :
P0446 - EVAP Vent Valve - Intend to swap the vent valve next, can that thing shut off the engine ?
This is not stored as an error in the Tech2, but it says : Fuel Pump Relay Circuit : Incomplete. This turns up every time, wether the engine is running or not, new relay or not. Could that be a hint ?

I´m really out of ideas soon - Do you have any ? Will check the cables to the starter tomorrow. I don´t think I can check the crank sensor myself, would there be anything in the GM Tech2 ?

Thanks a lot in advance and greetings from Germany

Oliver

 

Yes! Very much so! Come on GM. Fix it

 

It is ALWAYS best to start a new thread and tell us EXACTLY what’s happening with the car and not hijacking’s this thread…makes it easier and keeps the thread shorter !!…so your car is shutting off while you are driving and you have a DTC for the FP Relay circuit..is it a P0230 ??…the vent valve will not cause the engine to shut down but a faulty crank sensor will …since you have the P0230 the ECM is comparing the voltage on the “control” side (pin 85 I believe or is it 86) of the fuel pump relay vs what it expects to see…if you have your Tech 2 remove the relay and take a 12 volt test light connected to ground…one terminal of the relay should be hot at all times…that is the LOAD side of the relay…we are concerned with the control side…when the ECM receives ignition reference signals from the crank sensor during running and that control wire be receiving power from the ECM (pin 50 dark green/white wire at the C1 connector)…the control wire on the relay will light for 2 seconds and go out..with your Tech 2 go to output controls and find the fuel pump relay tab…you can turn the pump on and off with that output control…see if the test light illuminates for 2 seconds…if NOT you should do the same test at pin 50…if it works there you have a wiring issue between the ECM and the relay…the other 2 terminals of the relay are grounds…you can identify these by hooking up the test light to battery positive and find the 2 terminals that light…the control wire will be the wire that is not hot at all times…any questions let us know !!..even without the Tech 2 you can use the start switch in run should also run the pump for 2 seconds

 

Hi and thanks for the fast and detailed answer. Next time I will start a new thread.
Yes, the car shuts off while driving every now and then. Unfortunately there is no DTC saved for the FP relay, but if I look in the engine data of the Tech 2, I find this setence "Fuel Pump Relay Circuit - Incomplete" It´s in the menu where I can trigger the FP relay command and hear the pump humming. I will try the test with the light in the control pin of the FP relay and see, if it´s on for 2 seconds. I am not quite sure that I know where the C1 connector is, is that one of the 4 big connectors on the underside of the fusebox ?
Thanks again and greetings
Oliver

 

Well you must be in output controls but I’m not sure…well if you can hear the FP run it’s not a P0230…the ECM is where that C1 connector is but don’t worry about that for now…not sure what your issue may be but it can be a crank sensor.

 

Yes, A Cam or Crank Sensor will do it too.

 

Cam OR Crank ? Should I exchange both just to be sure ?
My plan was like follows :
- Keep the fuel pressure gauge in the car until it stops next time to see, if I have fuel pressure, so I can rule out FP and FP relay.
- Exchange the crank sensor (already ordered)

The Vette will get a new harmonic balancer and new belts anyway, I guess that would be a good time to throw in the cam sensor, right ? Or is this overkill ?

Thanks and greetings

Oliver

 

Good evening guys,

I think I am onto something. Did a testdrive with fuel pressure gauge installed. Motor cuts out.NO fuel pressure at all. Tried to start it. It cranks, but does not fire - NO fuel pressure. I then put in a rigged FP relais with shorted pins on the hot side, so FP relais is constantly on, no matter what the signal side to this relay says. Ignition on - Fuel pressure at about 50 psi, motor cranks and fires, fuel pressure at about 56 psi. I drive a few hundred meters and it cuts out again - NO fuel pressure.

Now I need to know, if my deductions are right :

1. It´s a fuel problem (obvious)
2. It´s not a faulty relay as my rigged one also did not help. - Which means the signal way to the FP relay is also not the problem
3. It´s an intermittent failure of the fuel pump itself. May it be the cables going to it or the pump itself.

Is that the right interpretation or do I get something wrong ?

I appreciate any input of you experts !

Thanks in advance and greetings

Oliver

 

Well, if you are willing to include the possibility of the wiring going to the fuel pump then you need to consider the entire circuit, which includes passage through the fuse block. It’s unlikely, but the same type of problem with the low beam failure could occurring elsewhere in the block and a heat related open could be happening. You could check to see if the power side of the relay socket has voltage when the fuel pressure is 0.

 

Check the fuel pump relay. Peter

 

Actually, I'm not quite sure what you did here. If you jumpered the pins on the relay so that it was triggered all of the time, then that's not the same as bypassing the relay altogether with a jumper wire. The relay could still have a problem where it won't stay closed even though it's triggered, if that's possible. I can't imagine the fuel pump relay is that expensive, to you might consider replacing it to eliminate it as the problem source.

 

Me too

 

You need to pull the sensors and check them with a meter. Codes should give you an idea which sensor is faulty.

 

Thanks for all your answers. I tried 3 different relays, all new, that didn´t help. What I did now is the following : Removed left wheel and inner fender lining and spliced in 2 wires that provide power to the fuel pump. The plug leading to the fuel pump was not at all corroded or loose. Routed this wires inside the car and attached a voltmeter. Now I wait for the problem to happen again. If the car stops and has no fuel pressure but it has the 12 Volts directly at the fuel pump I am inclined to say, that it´s a faulty fuel pump. Problem is, now the car drives perfectly for the last 150 miles, no problem at all. It drives me crazy, sometimes it appears after 400 meters, then it takes ages to surface again. Meanwhile I can not use the car for any serious purpose, as it tends to die in the most uncomfortable spots like onramps or big crossings.....