UmX

Can this be removed with out pulling the trans? Like unbolting from the bellhousing and from the trans and just drop it?

timd38

Nope.

zali0104

Have some ice cream and a cookie, you'll feel better.

Brandon619

Tim is correct, the trans is connected to the torque tube and to the diff so all of the parts need to be removed to get to the torque tube. Are you planning a clutch job or rebuilding your torque tube?

VGLNTE1

You have to drop the rear subframe, diff, trans, and tube together. Or subframe, then different and trans together, then tube.

Joe_G

Here is a great instructional thread. The OP James will help you if you have questions. He's a great gent.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...full-pics.html

UmX

fixing a broken slave cylinder lol

Brandon619

Been there before, I would consider upgrading your clutch while your replacing the slave.

UmX

Inhave a Mcleod rxt already

schpenxel

Yep, rear cradle, rear end/transmission/troque tube assembly has to come out. Not fun but not as bad as it looks.

rpmextra

Thanks JoeG for the shout out and kind words.

Yes check out my thread, I just did mine not long so it's still fresh in my head. The Link Joe posted was mine that I just did and if you have any questions I'm all ears and enjoy helping out.

If you don't already have one, get a remote bleeder. it makes clutch fluid care a breeze. Got my remote bleeder from Katech and they also supplied a new slave with the ZR1 clutch. I'm sure they have a decent price on the slave alone.

timd38

Address, and I like oatmeal raisin cookies!

My answer was correct.

Lg0928

I assume that when the rear cradle drops past the hanging bolts, that the engine will also drop slightly to match the angle. At this point did you support the rear of the engine. Something tells me yes?

schpenxel

Yes, it will angle down since the only thing holding it are the engine mounts which only stop it from twisting, not tilting (to some degree anyways)

I don't remember it wanting to lean all that much on it's own, I think I used a jack during install just to keep the engine at the right angle to get the torque tube / input shaft installed, but I don't recall it really needing much. It isn't like the back of the engine is going to fall down 45* or something as soon as the torque tube is out of the way.

Lg0928

Thanks. Getting ready to drop this week.

jonjoy

Not sure about LS3 cars BUT GM in the service manual for LS2 cars has several warnings about the intake manifold/ firewall contact, just be aware of that GM has some kind of special tool listed that's supposed to deal with that, some kind of sup[port?

Lg0928

Thanks again. Is the wire harness attached to the torque tube and does it have to come out with the tube or stay in place

rpmextra

You need to push the harness upwards to get it out of the slots on the tube. The harness stays there. Disconnect it completely from the rear but it stays there

89Roadster

Get a buddy and buy him a lot of beer.

And if you're doing it on the garage floor get one of these, you'll thank me later.

schpenxel

yes, it will hit, but it won't hurt anything unless you're like lowering the whole rear cradle down 3' and keep going after there's something obviously stopping the engine from tilting backwards, and then keep going even further after you start hearing crunching noises. Why GM would need a special tool for this, I have no idea. Techs working too fast I imagine.

It stays in the car. It slips into some slots on the torque tube, so it isn't bad to separate the two.

Yep. That's what I use too. I use that for the rear cradle and a cheapo transmission jack at the front of the torque tube to make it easy to roll around. The one I have is too wide to fit up into the tunnel so I can't really use it to help get things in/out but it's still nice to have an easy way to move things around once it's all down on the ground