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2006 Lean out issue

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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 11:30 AM
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Default 2006 Lean out issue

So I have a question. I got my car back together ls2 that is now a 404 6.6l. Stock injectors tune prior to the motor dying and rebuild. I have a p050 and p030 O2 code. And when I'm driving around my sub testing. Starts out fine. But seems after a few mins driving after warming up a lil it will lean out heavily. Like 18 on my aem gauge. Trying to diagnose it so looking for suggestions

another guy gave me some advice to try so i am going to do that. I just wanted to see what everyone else thought as well. I did try a vacuum leak test this morning and that passed. ( spraying water around everything intake area)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYUA...ature=youtu.be

idle

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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 11:37 AM
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Your leak test should have been done with soapy water. You can see soap bubbles better than just water.

luck ....HK
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by HK770
Your leak test should have been done with soapy water. You can see soap bubbles better than just water.

luck ....HK
i was told if there was a leak the water would get in there and cause the rpms to move and you would know bc u could hear the car rev up or down
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 03:04 PM
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Need a log with fuel trims first. A copy of the tune would be nice too.

My guess is basically fuel trims are probably pretty far positive which is keeping you around 14.7 at first. Once you get the O2 codes it goes into open loop, ignores O2 sensors, and then you have no correction and end up lean.

I'm not sure what's the most common reason for those codes though.

Are you running MAF only or SD or what? If you're running the 100% stock tune with a larger displacement engine, that probably isn't helping.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 04:47 PM
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With those codes I would start with looking at the O2 sensors. Those codes suggest that there is either an open or a short in the O2 heater circuit, either in the sensor itself or the heater circuit wiring. Unplug the sensors and check the resistance of the sensor's heater circuit. Also check the wiring in the car for any corrosion on the terminals or damaged wiring. Wires could have been damaged during engine removal or install.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 05:42 PM
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the motor was originally tuned for headers, vengence vr5 cam and a intake.. now its a fully forged motor with a bigger crank and diff cam....

yea i wish i could get my hands on the tune no access....
I had a MaF

I did order new o2 extensions from texas speed gonna try those...

sucks the o2s were fine prior to removal and its both of the front ones..

how do i check resistance,. i did just buy a volt meter dont know hwo to use it much lol
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 07:00 PM
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lil update for anyone else reading.. plugged the o2s directly into the main harness no extensions.. and still same issue.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 07:05 PM
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So you have a new forged engine. Is it a stroker? Is the compression the same? You also mentioned a bigger cam...so that could be the reason you're running lean when cruising.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Pitufina
So you have a new forged engine. Is it a stroker? Is the compression the same? You also mentioned a bigger cam...so that could be the reason you're running lean when cruising.
i cant even cruise yet.. i lean out just idling after a few mins..
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 07:22 PM
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What are you using to get those screenshots in the first post?

Dash command is an app that can at least read fuel trims and O2 voltage readings. That would be good info to have in figuring out what's wrong. Not sure if it will work with whatever device you're using, but just throwing it out there
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 07:47 PM
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The heater wire colors in the harness should be brown and black. Set the meter to ohms and test the corresponding pins on the sensor side. The polarity of your test leads does not matter. You should see somewhere in the neighborhood of 4-6 ohms. If the meter reads OL then there is an open in the sensor heater circuit. If the sensor checks out I would start looking at the vehicle harness wiring.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
What are you using to get those screenshots in the first post?

Dash command is an app that can at least read fuel trims and O2 voltage readings. That would be good info to have in figuring out what's wrong. Not sure if it will work with whatever device you're using, but just throwing it out there
i am using the torque app on android.. for that stuff.

is dash command a pc prog or a android app?
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:15 PM
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I think it's on android. I use it on my iPhone but I think they have an android version too
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by stroked383z28
The heater wire colors in the harness should be brown and black. Set the meter to ohms and test the corresponding pins on the sensor side. The polarity of your test leads does not matter. You should see somewhere in the neighborhood of 4-6 ohms. If the meter reads OL then there is an open in the sensor heater circuit. If the sensor checks out I would start looking at the vehicle harness wiring.
i actually just tore the harness apart to look at all the wires and look good in the engine bay and actually eliminated the o2 extension bc i had enough free line to plug them in directly.. will i have 4-6 ohms even if the car is off?
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:21 PM
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4-6 ohms reading would be on the sensor itself. It will be unplugged when you do the measurement, thus car being on or off makes no difference
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:23 PM
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There is green purple beige and a pink in the 4 colors coming from Mai. Harness
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:37 PM
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How old is the fuel in your tank, and did water settle out and clog your fuel sock?
Mine did, and the car would lean out during hard acceleration.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:38 PM
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He's going lean at idle.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:57 PM
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Sorry. Bank 1 is pink and gray/white. Bank 2 is pink and light green.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 09:01 PM
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You should also have 12 volts on both pink wires with the ignition on. The heater ground is pulse width modulated by the pcm.
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