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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Depends on oil pressure and oil temperature.
If you are not going to see oil temps higher than say 230-240 degree's and you can maintain pressure with a 10-30 or 10-40 then there is no point in running super thick oil. Just a bigger HP loss and could cause the engine to run hotter due to frictional losses with the fluid.
I would be more concerned with the type (brand) of oil. With modified car I would make sure you run something good in it like Red Line or Motul or similar oil. The additive packages and base stock for the oil is so much better than in any off the shelf oil you are going to find at your local auto parts store or Wal-Mart.
If you are not going to see oil temps higher than say 230-240 degree's and you can maintain pressure with a 10-30 or 10-40 then there is no point in running super thick oil. Just a bigger HP loss and could cause the engine to run hotter due to frictional losses with the fluid.
I would be more concerned with the type (brand) of oil. With modified car I would make sure you run something good in it like Red Line or Motul or similar oil. The additive packages and base stock for the oil is so much better than in any off the shelf oil you are going to find at your local auto parts store or Wal-Mart.
Thanks for the info. This is my first Ls car so I'm learning everything as I go. In my old sbc striker motors I just ran 20w50 and called it. Day
Bearing clearance also plays a roll in choice for oil viscosity. On a newer / tighter engine, thick oils are going to do more negative than positive.
A good quality 5w30 or Rotella 5w40 (what we use) will be fine.
My recommendation to anyone running aftermarket parts inside their engine would be to make sure you're running an oil with a high ZINC content, or run a ZINC additive such as the Lucas ZDDP supplement. This will help keep things alive longer. This is especially recommended if you're running a Comp camshaft.
If you are not going to see oil temps higher than say 230-240 degree's and you can maintain pressure with a 10-30 or 10-40 then there is no point in running super thick oil. Just a bigger HP loss and could cause the engine to run hotter due to frictional losses with the fluid.
I would be more concerned with the type (brand) of oil. With modified car I would make sure you run something good in it like Red Line or Motul or similar oil. The additive packages and base stock for the oil is so much better than in any off the shelf oil you are going to find at your local auto parts store or Wal-Mart.
I have 2011 zr1 hennessey 750, I live on Brazil and the temperature here is to high, over 100 degree's (39celsius). My corvette is running 235 - 240, i spoke with people here they told me to use motul v300 20w60. What do you think?
If you are not going to see oil temps higher than say 230-240 degree's and you can maintain pressure with a 10-30 or 10-40 then there is no point in running super thick oil. Just a bigger HP loss and could cause the engine to run hotter due to frictional losses with the fluid.
I would be more concerned with the type (brand) of oil. With modified car I would make sure you run something good in it like Red Line or Motul or similar oil. The additive packages and base stock for the oil is so much better than in any off the shelf oil you are going to find at your local auto parts store or Wal-Mart.
Bearing clearance also plays a roll in choice for oil viscosity. On a newer / tighter engine, thick oils are going to do more negative than positive.
A good quality 5w30 or Rotella 5w40 (what we use) will be fine.
My recommendation to anyone running aftermarket parts inside their engine would be to make sure you're running an oil with a high ZINC content, or run a ZINC additive such as the Lucas ZDDP supplement. This will help keep things alive longer. This is especially recommended if you're running a Comp camshaft.
I have a comp cam and they said no need to use a zinc additive because LS3 engines have rollers lifters.?
I have a comp cam and they said no need to use a zinc additive because LS3 engines have rollers lifters.?
All LSX engines have roller lifters and Comp camshafts have been falling apart in them for years. One of the many reasons I no longer use their product.
You absolutely should run a zinc additive if you're running a Comp camshaft, or any aftermarket internal components for that matter.
Bearing clearance also plays a roll in choice for oil viscosity. On a newer / tighter engine, thick oils are going to do more negative than positive.
A good quality 5w30 or Rotella 5w40 (what we use) will be fine.
My recommendation to anyone running aftermarket parts inside their engine would be to make sure you're running an oil with a high ZINC content, or run a ZINC additive such as the Lucas ZDDP supplement. This will help keep things alive longer. This is especially recommended if you're running a Comp camshaft.
Is there another brand of ZINC additive besides Lucas and where can I get it..Thanks
Is there another brand of ZINC additive besides Lucas and where can I get it..Thanks
You can get it from amazon.com. (ZDDP Plus or Maxx, I've heard the plus has phosphorous added to it also. I think they also have different amounts of the Zinc additive. You can probably investigate & see which product is better for your application)
You can get it from amazon.com. (ZDDP Plus or Maxx, I've heard the plus has phosphorous added to it also. I think they also have different amounts of the Zinc additive. You can probably investigate & see which product is better for your application)
Personally I would just run Amsoil Signature Series 0W30 & forget about adding any additives to the oil.
I'm going to stay with Mobil1.I have over 50,000 miles on my Comp cam with no problems. I do not believe what was said in post #11.The shop that installed my Comp cam is well known here in Texas, they have installed hundreds of Comp cams in LSX engines with NO cam failers. If it is not installed correctly it might fail. Comp cams have been around about long as I have and I'm 72 years young
Last edited by Cherokee Nation; Oct 27, 2015 at 11:36 AM.
Reason: make a change
I'm going to stay with Mobil1.I have over 50,000 miles on the Comp cam with no problems. I do not believe what was said in post #11.The shop that installed my Comp cam is well known here in Texas, they have installed hundreds of Comp cams in LSX engines with NO cam failers. If it is not installed correctly it might fail. Comp cams have been around about long as I have and I'm 72 years young
I was inquiring about the same exact thing yesterday. When speaking with the shop manager of Corvettes of Westchester, he specifically recommended using a Zinc additive such as Lucas with a comp cam, without me even mentioning it. All I asked was which type of oil would be best to run. He recommended Mobil 1 or Amsoil but said make sure to add something to the likes of Lucas TB Zinc plus or some type of Zinc additive.
I'm going to stay with Mobil1.I have over 50,000 miles on my Comp cam with no problems. I do not believe what was said in post #11.The shop that installed my Comp cam is well known here in Texas, they have installed hundreds of Comp cams in LSX engines with NO cam failers. If it is not installed correctly it might fail. Comp cams have been around about long as I have and I'm 72 years young
I missed the part where there was a different cam mentioned. Scratch the zinc not needed comment. If you have an aftermarket cam, a little zinc wouldn't hurt anything...
I was inquiring about the same exact thing yesterday. When speaking with the shop manager of Corvettes of Westchester, he specifically recommended using a Zinc additive such as Lucas with a comp cam, without me even mentioning it. All I asked was which type of oil would be best to run. He recommended Mobil 1 or Amsoil but said make sure to add something to the likes of Lucas TB Zinc plus or some type of Zinc additive.
I'm not sure but there was a thread awhile back on Oils and someone here uploaded a chart of all the major oils and again I'm not sure,but 0W-40 has more zinc in it.That is what I heard they use in some of the Super Cars.
I'm not sure but there was a thread awhile back on Oils and someone here uploaded a chart of all the major oils and again I'm not sure,but 0W-40 has more zinc in it.That is what I heard they use in some of the Super Cars.
That's what I use in my BMW 328xi. Mobil 1 Euro Blend 0w40, the oil change intervals are set at 15k miles, which I feel is excessive, however it speaks volumes for the quality of that oil.
I missed the part where there was a different cam mentioned. Scratch the zinc not needed comment. If you have an aftermarket cam, a little zinc wouldn't hurt anything...
it wouldn't hurt anything. The question is-Do you really need it?
Last edited by Cherokee Nation; Oct 27, 2015 at 03:17 PM.
Reason: change