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I am doing some street shakedown driving on my newly completed heavily modded 2012 GS A6 prior to going to the track. Mods include 416 stroker forged motor, ECS S/C kit, meth, Century built trans, ProTorque 2600 converter. In 90 degree ambient I am seeing trans temps around 210 when coolant is running around 200. Cooling mods include DeWitts radiator, non-glycol coolant, dual Spal fans, B&M trans cooler, and an oil cooler. I have been assured the trans tune is to Century specs. I am not aware of any additional mods to lower the trans temps. I would like to see a trans temp no higher than 190 and I would appreciate ideas on possible solutions to get the temps down with my setup.
Is it a good idea to run it in series like that with the radiator heat exchanger? Seems like the coolant could almost be heating the fluid up instead of the other way around.
Is it a good idea to run it in series like that with the radiator heat exchanger? Seems like the coolant could almost be heating the fluid up instead of the other way around.
Total guess on my part--just curious.
One "school of thought" is to bypass the trans cooler built into the radiator and run the aux cooler only. I posed this to my builder who did not agree with this approach.
It runs cooler if you don't run the Aux Transmission cooler in-series with the radiator, just sent the lines directly from the transmission to the transmission cooler. I have a higher stall than you, and the highest I have ever seen my temps go is 180, but I'm no where near as heavily modified as you are.
Also are you using a 160 degree t-stat? This could lower your temps if you don't want to bypass the radiator, but you must remember to change your fans settings to accommodate this t-stat change.
B&M High-Tec Cooler with fan, mounted at left front of rad, plumbed in series with DeWitt rad.
I was looking for the model # rather than name, so I could see the BTU rating.
Are you using an intercooler for the blower and if so, is the trans cooler in front of the intercooler?
Is the plumbing routing from the trans to the cooler before or after the radiator?
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Originally Posted by BIGMAC
One "school of thought" is to bypass the trans cooler built into the radiator and run the aux cooler only. I posed this to my builder who did not agree with this approach.
We do that on all our bigger builds, it does drop temps. Not only trans but coolant temps too.
We use a big cooler with a fan, biggest you can fit in there. Normally we place them under the left head light, but you could put a second under the right head light, a little smaller since the charge tube is there, but usually one is enough unless you are in a high heat area.
Running a B&M cooler with a fan here also. The rad is bypassed and I have the fan running all the time in hot weather. The thermostat that comes in that cooler turns the fan on too late, or at least it did for me. I rarely see over 180 and usually cooler than that.
I have tried it both ways---by passing the trans radiator cooler and running the added cooler in series with the radiator cooler
I have found that it cools the trans best when running both---
Remember that that radiator trans cooler is cooled by the ECT temps---So absolutely you need a lower thermo--I like the 160* the best-- and you must LOWER the fan settings to take full advantage of the lower thermo---This in turn will lower the trans temps
I set mine to come on at 188 or 190
ALSO there are trans tuning things that you can change that aids in lower temps as well---The #1 thing is to quicken up the TCC lockup times--this is done by setting your TCC PWM tables to read 90 minimum and 99 maximum---
Also delete the 3rd gear lock/unlock
210 is only acceptable on a 100* day in city traffic other than that it's too HOT---On my car with a 3000 stall it never got over 185*---
A deep oil pan helps by adding 1-2 qts of oil
If you have a cooler that is over capacity and run without going through the radiator, you'll have problems getting it up to temp in cool weather. It'll shift erratically at WOT below 150*. Adding an in-line T-stat will resolve the problem. A 180* T-stat should work fine.
That's my oil cooler but my trans is identical on the other side. Matt at FSP has some nice brackets that put them in same area but lying flat, if you don't want to bother fabbing up brackets.