Anyone heard of this as possibly curing the problem?


http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-adjustable-clutch-master-cylinder-kit-for-2005-2013-corvette-c6-z06/


Tim

 

Dude.. let the dealership fix it. It is their problem

The "ranger method" helps with prolonging life and helping with issues like this, but it's not going to fix a broken master cylinder or other real clutch problem.

This is their problem. Make them fix it.

Once it's fixed, swapping out clutch fluid will help in the long run, but I don't think it's the answer right now.

If the fluid was that dirty it sounds like they didn't replace any of the hydraulics. I'd bet the master cylinder is all they really needed to replace. The clutch was probably fine, though I wouldn't complain about getting a new clutch out of the deal

Oh--and you mentioned bleeding the clutch hydraulics. That would be a great idea.. except the bleed screw is basically on top of the bell housing and very difficult to get to. There are a few remote bleeders available, but you can only really install them with the drivetrain disassembled. So, not likely you'll want to bleed the system. Let the dealership fix it IMO.

 

Using the "ranger method" does take extra time, since it's not a direct way to flushing the dirty crap out. I wouldn't waste the time at this point.
This did not happen in the 900 miles that you put on the car; more than likely that fluid has not been touched in the 25K mile since new.
The dealer should be changing the slave cylinder IMO, and do a good flush, when they get the scar back. This is probably the main reason that the fluid gets so dirty; the clutch dust get past the seals in the slave that causes all the issues. And if the fluid is so cruddy, the master could also be compromised.

 

You shouldn't need this if everything is in proper working conditions.

 

Ranger method works for clutches sticking to the floor on high rpm shifts. So does removing the clutch pedal.

OP you have a mechanical problem that the ranger method isn't going to fix.

I suspect a bad master cylinder, that's the first thing I'd try. The dealership should have replaced this already but perhaps it's bad.

When you press it down does it have resistance like a normal clutch pedal does or does it fall right down? If it falls right down with no resistance that further says it's the master.

As Schpenxel says, have it towed to the dealer. And post up what they did before and what they find this time.

Going forward it's a good idea to do the ranger method every so often.

Read more about why here:

Www.rangeracceleration.com

 

I kno this doesnt help OP much but did this to my c6 after pedal was sticking to the floor and worked. Hopefully this is a band akd until i can get a real clutch in there.

 

Happened to me. You'll be wasting your time with the Ranger method as your not moving any fluid anyway. If you want a fix, read my write-up below.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1589895373

 

I remembered your post on your situation and how you fixed the master, which I posted earlier.

 

Yesterday morning I tried the Rodgers method as stated above.
This morning when putting it on the flatbed to be towed to Simi Valley Chevrolet. I noticed that the master cylinder reservoir lost most of the mc fluid I had put in and it was leaking as it went on to the tow truck?
It hadn't leaked any right after the incident. It was full. I wonder when I did all the fluid changes and pedal pumping, caused it some how?
I got the service bill from last month and they did replace the clutch,
SL-Plate, master cylinder,the Slave. replaced and flushed the fluid.
It was an 8hour job. It was 105* outside and I was in a long drive-through line with the air on, had to use the clutch a lot in that line.
I noticed it never got over 207* then drove 2 miles home pulled into the Garage and pedal went to the floor.
It's at the dealership now so, "wait and see "
Tim

 

Could you see where the leak was coming from?

In your case with a fluid leak. You could have a broke/loose bleed screw or pressure line. Or possibly a melted bearing support which blewout your slave.

Curious to see the end result

 

Noticed it when it was already on the flat bed,
If I had to guess I would say from the master cylinder. It was leaking on the driver side at the back of the engine bay right were the MC would be. But you know how leaks are they can be from anywhere? But it was clear brake fluid for sure so something from the clutch for sure!
Tim

 

They replaced everything clutch plate, clutch, master cylinder, Slave. Replaced and flushed all the fluid. They used Gm's clutch fluid which has an amber color to it to begin with. That's why I thought it looked dirty. It wasn't.
Tim

 

The fluid will get BLACK from the clutch disc; that's the stuff to watch out for; get it out ASAP
GK with the dealer, keep us posted.

 

My opinion is the black is more from the seals themselves--there's nothing else it could be coming from that I could find. C6 slave cylinders have a dust shield on them that should work pretty well to stop any dust from getting near the fluid.

C5's are a different story/design

 

We got it.

 

lol my email is blowing up too...

 

Me three

 

Problem with the slave on the C-6, is the seal is just U shaped with the U part to the rear. So clutch dust gets to the cylinder wall, as as the U plunger rounded front edges are pushed forward, with the front edges just riding over the clutch dust on the cylinder walls, and how the clutch dust gets in the fluid to begin with.






The simple fix would have been for GM to use a plunger seal that is more of a H design, what has a swipper edge on the front of the seal plunger too, so is cuts and pushes any clutch dust on the cylinder wall forward off the cylinder wall as plunger is moving forward, to keep the cylinder wall in front of the plunger moving forward clean of clutch dust instead.


Bluntly put, the inside of the bell housing is clutch dust city, and there is going to be no way around that. The bell housing does have ports to allow some of the dust to be blow out, but it still build up on all the parts in side the bell housing, including the front of the slave cylinder walls. So what is needed is a way for the plunger seal to be able to cleanly sweep the cylinder walls as it moving forward, and forward cutting lips on the seal would solve a great deal of the dust problem that does end up back in the fluid.

As for why does GM not use a plunger seal like such, it all steams back to product obsolescence, and if they build a slave that is better self cleaning, then it bits them in the butt with the part lasting too long instead/time before needed services instead (less added money on selling replacement parts and service to replace the parts as well).