How many slaves have you gone through and did they all look the same when they failed?

 

The last one before this one was alil less fd. Iv changed them a bunch of times just because iv had the trans out . This one now has lasted the very longest

 

Yeah, def. something else going on then. Whether it's a shaft bent or clearance set wrong, I dunno.

 

I have zero fn clue

 

this is rubbing the inside on the tube .that's why I think it's bent

 

Oh yeah, possible it's bent then. Check it out while it's off or have machine shop check and see if it's still straight before you reinstall it

Were couplers going out? That could cause the driveshaft to go all over the place if so

 

They look ok .hole reason was to replace them with the dss ones an when I took it apart I saw this so I haven't put the car back together yet.an idk what do with the slave issue

 

Yeah I dunno either, I'd make sure DS is straight, get new couplers, make sure tip of input shaft isn't messed up while you're at it

I'll try to read more about the throwout bearing/pressure plate heights.

Did you use a shim under the slave cylinder?

 

No it didn't measure out that it needs one

 

Gotcha. Yeah I dunno then. I was thinking if the slave were too tall maybe it'd bind up or something when you pushed the pedal all the way down but that seems like it would be more likely if you had used shims

 

Yea an the clutch would slip

 

By the numbers.

Free lash/distance between the pressure plate fingers to the back of the bell housing, .124" to 1.50" greater than the distance of the face of the TB bearing (pushed all the way down against the outer spring on the slave), to the face of the torque tube? Hence do not have the TB pre loaded against the pressure plate fingers instead.


Pilot bearing in the flywheel good and the correct size for the front of the torque tube shaft nose (read shaft nose area not all marred to hell, or under size spun worn isntead to cause the torque tube shaft to be loose in the pilot bearing.

Torque tube, did you pull it apart to check it completely out, hence bearings and bearing sockets still good, as well as couplers too. Also, get the torque tube shaft between centers to make sure you did not bend it. Also, depending on the shop's capabilities, have them spin up the built torque tube to make sure it not way out of balance as well.

From here, you got a major heat problem going on the way you are using the clutch, and step 1 on the new OEM slave, remove the TB plastic race support, and replace it with a metal one. Hence you getting the TB bearing hot enough to melt it race support ,and when it starts melting, it taking out the TB with it when it melts down on the support race and ***** sideways.


OEM plastic on the left, metal on the right,


Lastly, if you have a tick master cylinder installed, make sure that you have the free lash adjusted correctly. Hence the tick master cylinder can over drive the TB if not adjusted with free play correctly, and force the TB on race to far forward inward against the pressure plate fingers to cause the same problems you are having.

Short of the clutch fluid line too close to the headers, with the fluid boiling and causing the same as a tick master out of adjustment, All that comes to mind is pulling the clutch out of the car to make sure that you have it assembled correctly, and the flywheel is fully seated on the crank flange as well.

 

Some of that I did not understand lol sorry

 

I just found out about the metal sleeve that I will be buying that . I also think my slave measures out to be 3.0xx whitch is way to much but I'm going to find a straight edge am check it again.

 

First measurement,


Second measurement with the TB on the new metal race compressed all the way back towards the bell housing in the slave against the outer spring under the green boot (bottom out the TB on race as far in as you can push it in).

Note you are using the two surfaces on the bell housing and torque tube where they will mate up against each other to get the measurement back to the pressure plate fingers and the face of the compressed TB into the slave.



Now the back to the clutch to fingers has to be the larger measurement, and your going to subtract the smaller measurement of the TB to torque tube face from the larger back of bell housing to pressure plate fingers number , and the number you need end up is between is .124" to .150".

If you are ending up with a number larger than .150", then you will need to shim the slave off the Torque tube with base plate shim (s) to end up with a free gap/Throw out bearing clearance distance of .124" to .150" when its all said and done.

Tick has the need slave base shims in a three packs if needed and they can be stacked if needed as well,

Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim (.055")
Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim (.113")
Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim (.180")





If you are ending up with less than .124" instead, then the problem can be solve via lathing the slave cylinder and TB race if needed.
But before you start lathing the slave and TB metal race to gain the needed clearance free gap, pull the clutch to make sure that you have it assembled correctly, and the flywheel is seated tight and square against the crank flange.

Hence depending on the flywheel, most of the time they needed to be heated up so they will seat correctly on the crank flange fully (bolts will not suck it back correctly). With the clutch, if assembled incorrectly on the flywheel, the pressure plate fingers stick back too far towards the back of the bell housing instead.

And no matter what the clutch kit manufacturer says, you need to double check the bearing clearance distance on a clutch install. Even if they have the kit manufacturers correctly to end up with the correct clearance, measuring will insure that you have the Flywheel fully seated, and the clutch assembled on the flywheel correctly as well.

 

ordered the metal pice and a new driveshaft

 

calling mcloid to make sure my clutch disk are in spec and then ill re measure everything again but i cae yup with 3.11 for the clutch and 2.984 i think for the slave

 

.126" has you in the correct clearance range.

So would dare to guess if everything else check out fine, it was just the heat range of the clutch and how you where using it, that caused the plastic race support melting failure instead (which the metal race support will solve that problem).

 

The clutch is in deep out of spec buy alot . .330 is min for the back disk mine is .298 an front disjointed min is .315 mine is .285.

 

What did the two discs measure before you installed the clutch to begin with?

How many miles/launches on the clutch, and just how hard are you on the clutch with clutch slips to begin with?