DIY NPP Vacuum Pump Controller System - Avoiding Engine Intake
Added the mufflers to my '09 Z51. Was running them open full time. The car is completely stock.
I finally got around to having the time to install an exhaust controller. I didn't want to rely on engine vacuum, because:
1. If something went wrong with the vacuum lines, fittings, or controller components - I might get a vacuum leak, and that would suck to have to chase around.
2. I didn't want to try to break off that little tab on the back of the intake.
3. I didn't want to tap into the brake booster.
Solution? Well, the engine is just a big vacuum pump. So I found a small vacuum pump. A Dorman pump intended for Ford Diesel trucks.
The vacuum tubing goes from each muffler to a tee, to a line, and that lines comes up through the bottom of the bumper assembly to the inside of the bumper into the wall cavity through a little hole that is above some pre-existing green wire that has a grommet. Above that green wire and grommet, if you peel back some little rubbery tape, there is an existing hole. There is another one on the other side too. I made that hole slighty bigger with a drill, and fed the vacuum tube through it. Then the tubing connects to the solenoid, then from the solenoid to the pump.
The solenoid is in-between the pump and the mufflers, because although the pump shuts off automatically when its full vacuum is achieved, if you cut the power the the pump, it will not release vacuum. It must have an internal check valve. I didn't want to modify the pump because it doesn't look very easy to get into.... so using the solenoid to vent the line to atmosphere works well.
To me, this setup is much better than the current "NPP in a box" because:
1. No engine vacuum line
2. No remote control
3. Switch is reachable by your hand instead of in the "dead pedal" location
4. Components are easily replaceable if they fail
5. DIY is neat
Back in "the day" I guess (like maybe almost 10 years ago) it seems the "NPP in a Box" guy's product actually used a vacuum pump. I read on the forum on some old post before I started this project that he stopped using the vacuum pump because he couldn't source them anymore. Apparently the one he was using was really tiny and used in military applications or something. Edit: actually, he may have been using a medical device for asthma patients. Regardless.... All I know is the pump that I used is very common, and available everywhere. It's like $50.
When I turn the system on, the pump turns on and makes noise for a few seconds. The exhaust valves then fully close, and the pump turns off automatically because it has reached ~12 to 15 inHg. When I turn the system off, air dumps through the solenoid and exhaust is back to "loud" and nothing is receiving power.
The cruise-control fuse is ignition switchable (like the seat heater fuse). Therefore, the system draws no power unless the car is on.
I hope this helps someone. I did A LOT of searching to plan this project. Camaro forums and Corvette forums helped. The AC/Delco solenoid operation was gleaned from the Camaro guys and some Volvo guys- I'll have to tell them it's unreliable if they haven't already figured that out....
This is awesome! Now I can have it quiet on long road trips (the drone with NPP in the full open position is annoying as hell to me).
Happy 4th!




I am reading mixed reviews of how long they last online and am contemplating spending $120 on the Motorcraft/OEM Ford pump which comes with a 2 year warranty.
I'm trying to buy and assemble this DIY in the next month or so. Looks very simple since I don't need to run any additional wires. I already have NPP in a box but I keep having issues with the vacuum solenoid not holding vacuum, as well as losing vacuum during heavy throttle that you get when relying on engine vacuum. This solution should solve my issues and be more reliable.
Edit: I went ahead and ordered the vacuum pump from Autozone. It was $111 after a 20% discount. They offer a lifetime warranty so I don't feel bad paying extra for the ability to take it down the street to swap it out.
Last edited by C6_Prodigy; Mar 8, 2024 at 03:26 PM.
I am reading mixed reviews of how long they last online and am contemplating spending $120 on the Motorcraft/OEM Ford pump which comes with a 2 year warranty.
I'm trying to buy and assemble this DIY in the next month or so. Looks very simple since I don't need to run any additional wires. I already have NPP in a box but I keep having issues with the vacuum solenoid not holding vacuum, as well as losing vacuum during heavy throttle that you get when relying on engine vacuum. This solution should solve my issues and be more reliable.
I am reading mixed reviews of how long they last online and am contemplating spending $120 on the Motorcraft/OEM Ford pump which comes with a 2 year warranty.
I'm trying to buy and assemble this DIY in the next month or so. Looks very simple since I don't need to run any additional wires. I already have NPP in a box but I keep having issues with the vacuum solenoid not holding vacuum, as well as losing vacuum during heavy throttle that you get when relying on engine vacuum. This solution should solve my issues and be more reliable.
Edit: I went ahead and ordered the vacuum pump from Autozone. It was $111 after a 20% discount. They offer a lifetime warranty so I don't feel bad paying extra for the ability to take it down the street to swap it out.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
@Jay462 - I just want to say thank you for your research and this thread. You made it so easy for me. This photo along with the rest of the info you shared allowed me to hook this system up and it worked the very first try.
I already had NPP in a box so I re-used the remote feature to get power to the vacuum pump and Mac valve.
I still have a small vacuum leak that I assume must be at the "T" between the two mufflers. I zip tied every other vacuum connection and the pump will kick on for about 1/4 second every 10-15 seconds. I'll get to that later, but this serves the purpose of allowing me to get out of my neighborhood and going to the inspection station with headers (eventually) without being obnoxious.
Cleaned up the best I could. The pump I screwed into the trunk. With the weight of it + the Mac valve attached, I didn't trust Velcro alone.
Power taken from my old NPP in a box setup and connected to the switch that plugs into the vacuum pump.
@Jay462 - I just want to say thank you for your research and this thread. You made it so easy for me. This photo along with the rest of the info you shared allowed me to hook this system up and it worked the very first try.
I already had NPP in a box so I re-used the remote feature to get power to the vacuum pump and Mac valve.
I still have a small vacuum leak that I assume must be at the "T" between the two mufflers. I zip tied every other vacuum connection and the pump will kick on for about 1/4 second every 10-15 seconds. I'll get to that later, but this serves the purpose of allowing me to get out of my neighborhood and going to the inspection station with headers (eventually) without being obnoxious.
Cleaned up the best I could. The pump I screwed into the trunk. With the weight of it + the Mac valve attached, I didn't trust Velcro alone.
Power taken from my old NPP in a box setup and connected to the switch that plugs into the vacuum pump.

Edit: Every single connection feels secure and is now zip tied for extra measure. I used Teflon tape on the Mac valve fittings when I installed them so I'm assuming they are good. Who knows. Maybe when I'm driving I won't hear the pump kicking on and off but it seems a little excessive to be 100% content with it.
You can hear the pump kick on for a split second around 11 seconds into this clip.
Edit 2 mid-week: Drove the car on the highway today for the first time and with the road noise in the car, you can only slightly hear it if the radio is off. With the radio on, can't hear the pump. I don't like that it kicks on/off so much but I can't hear it and don't use it often. Good enough I suppose.
Last edited by C6_Prodigy; May 8, 2024 at 04:04 PM.
Edit: Every single connection feels secure and is now zip tied for extra measure. I used Teflon tape on the Mac valve fittings when I installed them so I'm assuming they are good. Who knows. Maybe when I'm driving I won't hear the pump kicking on and off but it seems a little excessive to be 100% content with it.
You can hear the pump kick on for a split second around 11 seconds into this clip.
I love this system, nice stealthy startups in my quiet neighborhood.. no screaming babies or angry neighbors. Easy cruising with no drone on longer trips... and an angry terror when the valves are open.
I love this system, nice stealthy startups in my quiet neighborhood.. no screaming babies or angry neighbors. Easy cruising with no drone on longer trips... and an angry terror when the valves are open.
Got it. The actuators are out there, I recall someone posting they had found them on a European site under a Porsche or BMW part number, but they were the exact same as the ones on our cars. If I find them again I'll update here.
I have mine set to start in loud mode and then I can switch it to quiet once the car is on. In fact I could probably put it in accessory mode first, close the valves, then start it up if I needed to. An interesting option I didn't have when relying on engine vacuum.
Still spendy, but nice to have the option of buying locally.
-Tim















