I just finished this project today. Works great! I can hardly hear the pump once as the engine idle is more noticeable. It runs for a 5 seconds then I cant hear it anymore, then the Kenwood boots up and never hear it again. When I start the car it gets quiet in about 5 sec. I put a foot switch on the foot rest for control. Glad I did it this way.

 

I plan on installing this tomorrow but have a quick question does it matter which way the vacuum flows through the Mac valve?

i plan to run from mufflers up to Mac and connect to #2 and then run #1 to the vacuum pump. Is this correct or does it need to be reversed?

 

Let me have your email and I will email instructions which I was sent. Available now or late today

 

Line from pump goes to number 1 on mac. I think you are correct.

 

Success!

for anyone that does this in the future make sure to use Teflon tape on the Mac valve connections. I did not at first and the pump continuously ran. Once I taped it it shuts off in the first few seconds of startup

 

Does anyone with this mod have an issue with the mufflers slowly losing vacuum over 10-15 minutes of driving and the pump have to kick back on for a second? Trying to determine if I have a leak or if this is normal. Has any tried to adjust the valves so that they close tighter? There looks to be an adjustment nut on each one.

 

That has nothing to do with losing vacuum. Could be the vacuum pot on either valve. Or try a small clamp on the rubber hose.

 

are the vacuum ports known to leak? Maybe I’ll try a smoke test and see if it sucks in at any of the connections.

 

I think the MAC valve is the issue. I am using two separate branded exhaust valves (one from China and one from a BMW) and they both lose vacuum after a while. When I remove the MAC valve from the equation, they stay closed indefinitely. Initially I had an issue with my MAC valve losing air out of the exhaust port but it randomly fixed itself.

 

[QUOTE=armenh7;1601278510]I think the MAC valve is the issue. I am using two separate branded exhaust valves (one from China and one from a BMW) and they both lose vacuum after a while. When I remove the MAC valve from the equation, they stay closed indefinitely. Initially I had an issue with my MAC valve losing air out of the exhaust port but it randomly fixed itself.[/QUOTE

I have the pump and USA made Mac valve never had an issue it’s been a year

 

My MAC valve is USA made as well, just one exhaust valve is from China. The other one was cut off a 2002 BMW 330i just for a tester to make it easier to identify a bad part

 

Update: I used a BMW solenoid (part number 11747810831) and it does hold vacuum longer but it still loses vacuum over time. It held longer than the MAC solenoid but the issue isn't completely fixed. I was thinking of using the MAC solenoid and having this BMW solenoid plumbed into the exhaust port (#3) to act as an electrical check valve but it seems like it wouldn't really work since it still bled down without the MAC solenoid. I ordered a 1/8" NPT to 1/8 barb fitting to test out the theory anyway as it doesn't hurt to try if it does indeed fix the issue.

Update #2: I switched the way I had the BMW solenoid connected and it held for over 1 hour with zero bleed down. I believe I may have had the MAC solenoid hooked up wrong. I'm waiting on a fitting to come in and I will test out my theory

 

Installed the new fitting and tried out my theory. I hooked up vacuum to port 3 and the line to the valve to port 2 on the MAC solenoid. It only held for 12-16 minutes before it started losing vacuum again. I'm going to stick with the BMW solenoid. The previous way I had hooked up wouldn't release power on the first power off. I'd have to turn the power back on then the exhaust valve would open. Now powering off would immediately close it so I guess I partially fixed it but not enough for me to want to use it. I was thinking of adding a check valve but then the air wouldn't be able to travel to the exhaust port.

 

my system works as follows. When car is off exhaust is open. I use a foot operated switch on the dead pedal to open and close exhaust as I choose. If I leave the switch on when I shut off the car the exhaust opens. If I start the car with the switch on it takes about 5 seconds for the exhaust to close. The pump may kick on once in a while for a few seconds but the exhaust always remains closed. The pump is mounted next to one of the taillights outside the tub so it’s almost silent. Once the Kenwood cranks up I never hear it.
my system does not hold vacuum when the car is off.

 

I am testing everything on a bench setup with a vacuum pump to eliminate some variables. I haven't installed it in the car yet. I'm just posting my findings for trying to control the valve with a MAC solenoid

 

Wanted to post an update. I got the system installed in the car a few months back. It works great. First click of the remote takes a second or so to build vacuum but after that, the retention in the vacuum tank makes any click afterwards instant. Works great switching between super load and very subtle.This link doesn't show the final setup I had which was implementing the trigger and timer controllers so the pump only runs for a few seconds. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dlC5EZuJLKciOJoi8sUyc_BClLx0uvx1?usp=sh aring

 

I know this one has been quiet for a bit, but I am finally looking to hook this up to the NPP I have had in for the past year in the open position. I like it open, but the times I take the wife out would be nice to have this installed for conversation. Price for all the parts are getting close to NPP in a box, but I guess the convenience of not having to tap into the intake makes it worth it.

Does someone have the detailed instructions mentioned earlier in the thread? Putting the amazon cart together for all the parts now. In particular I am interested where most people are installing the pump and solenoid. Also, want to ensure I get the tubing correct. I know someone mentioned he had to get a reducer from 7/32 to 1/4, which wasn't mentioned by the OP. Wondering if an incorrect part was ordered. I do not see what connectors come with the MAC and Amazon shows connectors and the relief valve are frequently purchased together.

Trying to figure out what sort of switch to get and where to put it.

 

Older thread, but great info, figured I'd share my experience so far. I'm the 3rd owner of an '08 coupe, I believe the original owner installed NPP mufflers and never added any vacuum control (build sheet indicates no NPP from factory). I followed the OPs instructions using the same parts. The Gates 27041 is 7/64" diameter, this fits the muffler actuators and the Dorman pump. The MAC valve I received has what I believe are 5/32" fittings, so I bought 1' of 5/32" hose (Edit: My MAC solenoid requires 3/16" ID hose, this was also the source of my vacuum leak, the 5/32 leaked when stretched over 3/16 fittings) from Autozone along with a package of plastic reducers to splice the solenoid in between the actuators and the Dorman.

It was difficult to get the hoses onto the fittings, especially the muffler actuator fittings. I considered heating the hoses (ambient was 60 degrees) but wound up spraying some soap on the fittings which made it much easier. The "project box" OP listed was a little small for my switch but it worked, YMMV. I used plenum rated 14awg speaker wire because I had it on hand. I removed the passenger side hatchback strut which helped hide the wiring under the plastic trim. Used the coat hanger over the tunnel to snake the switch wire to the driver side footwell, also used coat hanger to bring the vacuum line down between the tub and the bumper, removing passenger tail lights helped, I enlarged a hole that was just above the green wire OP mentions and ran vac line through there..... think I used a 3/8" bit for this. I wired the switch onto the positive leg at the "add a fuse", found that was the easiest way.

The good: the electric side of things work as they should. It takes about 5 seconds for the pump to build enough vacuum to close the valves, I can do this by pressing the "on" button without the clutch in and then starting the car once the vacuum is present... this is important to me as I live in a small, quiet neighborhood and have young kids.

The cons so far: Edit: no cons! Found the leak and it works as it should. my system loses vacuum every 5 seconds or so and the pump comes on for about 1 second to compensate. I havent had a chance to trouble shoot it, will likely pull all the vac fittings apart and hopefully sort this out over the next couple days.

I'll take some pics when I dig into it. It's hard to believe the difference between mild and wild... it's like going from a Camry to a Nascar at the flip of a switch.

 

Or you could just hook up a vacuum line from the intake straight to the mufflers. Quiet at idle, loud when hard on the throttle.