Oil leak :(
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You do not need to drop the cradle or pull any shock side. Just put the car up on jack stands, drop the sway bar down, unhook the two PS lines, remove both ball joint ends from rack, remove rack mounting bolts, slide rack out passenger side until you have clearance. Then you will have access to the balancer. Remove the puller and install new seal. 
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Canton Michigan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Indianapolis IN
Did not know you had aftermarket suspension. Mine fits through without dropping it. Actually of all the cars I've seen done this way, i have never seen one that did have to drop it. I do believe they were stock suspension or at best DA shocks though.
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The shock isn't what's initially stopping it, it's the frame and the cradle. Once I'm past that, there coil over stores it. Every how to I've seen says you have to drop the cradle. I've tried without and it doesn't fit, it's faster to drop the cradle and slide it out rather than fight with it and not spend the 2 or 3 minutes it takes to drop the cradle. Look up froggys video on YouTube
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Me too, replaced a stock balancer with an ATI and didn't change the oil seal, got what you have. Pulled it back apart the next week and put a new seal on the timing cover and no more oil leak.
Soaked the under side of the car/engine with simple green then pressure washed it and now check it after every drive and it's still dry
Soaked the under side of the car/engine with simple green then pressure washed it and now check it after every drive and it's still dry
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,352
Likes: 32
From: Canton Michigan
Me too, replaced a stock balancer with an ATI and didn't change the oil seal, got what you have. Pulled it back apart the next week and put a new seal on the timing cover and no more oil leak.
Soaked the under side of the car/engine with simple green then pressure washed it and now check it after every drive and it's still dry
Soaked the under side of the car/engine with simple green then pressure washed it and now check it after every drive and it's still dry
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I've spent the last 6 months off and on looking for that leak and even changed my catch can and PCV system thinking i was causing excessive crankcase pressure on 3rd and 4th gear pulls.
Mine looked exactly like yours (not nearly as much oil but similar) before I changed the seal. Look down the front of the motor at the rear of the rack (side facing the balancer) and see if its got oil on it. Also look at the AC compressor, I bet its your crank seal.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,352
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From: Canton Michigan
My motor has 3K miles on it so go figure. I know the balancer was off a couple times and I believe that was the cause of my leak all along since its been doing that since day one.
I've spent the last 6 months off and on looking for that leak and even changed my catch can and PCV system thinking i was causing excessive crankcase pressure on 3rd and 4th gear pulls.
Mine looked exactly like yours (not nearly as much oil but similar) before I changed the seal. Look down the front of the motor at the rear of the rack (side facing the balancer) and see if its got oil on it. Also look at the AC compressor, I bet its your crank seal.
I've spent the last 6 months off and on looking for that leak and even changed my catch can and PCV system thinking i was causing excessive crankcase pressure on 3rd and 4th gear pulls.
Mine looked exactly like yours (not nearly as much oil but similar) before I changed the seal. Look down the front of the motor at the rear of the rack (side facing the balancer) and see if its got oil on it. Also look at the AC compressor, I bet its your crank seal.
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Just get under it on jack stands with brake cleaner and clean it, and run while on stands and your leak as much as it is, is going to be obvious.
Your problem was driving it to far and the oil went to far over everything hiding the origin.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2011
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In my business (motorcycles) it can be very difficult to find the source of a leak. What we do is first get the entire suspect area clean and dry then coat the entire suspected area with some spray-on foot powder. Start it up and let it idle for several seconds, shut down and inspect. Don't find anything? Run it again for a minute or so. The leak will show up very easily in the powder. When you're done the powder will wash right off.
Last edited by ProCycle; Nov 6, 2016 at 03:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,352
Likes: 32
From: Canton Michigan
In my business (motorcycles) it can be very difficult to find the source of a leak. What we do is first get the entire suspect area clean and dry then coat the entire suspected area with some spray-on foot powder. Start it up and let it idle for several seconds, shut down and inspect. Don't find anything? Run it again for a minute or so. The leak will show up very easily in the powder. When you're done the powder will wash right off.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,717
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From: O'Fallon IL
If you messed with the balancer after new engine was installed, then the cranshaft seal needs to be replaced. It doesn't matter if the seal was only there for 20 miles....the seal conforms to the balancer, specially if the correct alignment tool was not used when the timing cover was installed. Ask me how I know. 
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,352
Likes: 32
From: Canton Michigan
If you messed with the balancer after new engine was installed, then the cranshaft seal needs to be replaced. It doesn't matter if the seal was only there for 20 miles....the seal conforms to the balancer, specially if the correct alignment tool was not used when the timing cover was installed. Ask me how I know.
I never knew that had to be replaced at that time =/